Might have to scrap my Rover

[phenonix]

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MG-ZT-RO...53.m1438.l2649
and
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LANDROVE...53.m1438.l2649


all genuine parts, will just take a bit longer to get here.

[phenonix]

Originally Posted by SD1too

Joe; before you go spending a lot of money I'd advise confirming the diagnosis. How many miles has your engine covered? Have the timing belts been replaced before? Most importantly, check carefully that the coolant leak isn't from a flattened 'O' ring on the plastic components in the 'V'. I know from personal experience that if a reservoir of coolant builds up there it eventually drains through a small hole and drips down over the oil filter and sump. This has the potential to mislead people into believing that the source of the leak is the water pump.

Simon

Could i actually diagnose this myself?

[victorgte]

Originally Posted by phenonix

Thanks Simon
The garage that i have used since i first got the car said it was from the water pump.

A week before that i have a coolant leak in the centre of the car, i thought it was the hose into the expansion tank, but they said the expansion tank had a crack in it, so they replaced it.

5 days later there was another leak this time on the right hand side , put it back into the garage and they said the leak was from the water pump.

The belts have been replaced before, and i think i have 130,000 kms done

I saw Jules this week and he said the KV6 will leak into the V out of the thermostat and drain out on the right side of the engine. Not necessarily your water pump so check the V first.

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by phenonix

Garage says i need this part..LHP100610...Tensioner belt...

The tensioner comprises two separate parts; a pulley and a hydraulic plunger. LHP100610 is the latter. It is extremely unlikely to need replacing.

What is much more important Joe is to give your garage the procedure for correctly aligning the pulley (mentioned above). This is not included in the MG Rover workshop instructions nor is it included with many of the aftermarket pulleys (including Gates). The procedure is published by INA (the OEM pulley manufacturer) and is available as a pdf file on this forum if you search under member Beinet1.

Originally Posted by phenonix

The garage that i have used since i first got the car said it was from the water pump.

I appreciate Joe that you may feel loyal to your garage and trust them 100% but there is no harm in checking for yourself. I’m surprised about the expansion tank story. I don’t think we’ve ever heard that one before and odd, isn’t it, that an alleged second leak developed a few days later. Perhaps it occurred to you that the expansion tank may not have been the problem at all.

You can easily check yourself for a coolant leak in the ‘V’. Identify the engine acoustic cover which sits on the top as you open the bonnet and bears a label stating that the engine has quad camshafts. Remove the two recessed screws (8mm socket) and lift it off. Now shine a bright torch through the gaps in the manifolds towards the ‘V’. Can you see any pink liquid or white powdery deposits? If so, that’s antifreeze and indicates a leak.

The belts have been replaced before, and i think i have 130,000 kms done

130,000 km is 78,000 miles. The belts have a life of at least 90,000 miles (MG Rover figure) but I have discovered that the tensioner pulley is in poor condition by then. If it was not renewed last time (part no. LHB101631) then you should consider doing it soon. If it was replaced last time it may not have been adjusted properly which could put your belt and water pump bearings at risk. In your particular circumstances I think that renewing this pulley and the belts would be timely and in the process it will be obvious whether or not your garage is right about the water pump.

Have a think about that whilst you’re checking for leaks in the ‘V’.

Simon

[phenonix]

Thank Simon,
The garage still has the car so i'll take it back till, i don't have the parts yet (if i go ahead)
When you say this "see any pink liquid or white powdery deposits? If so, that’s antifreeze and indicates a leak."

Does that confirm it is the water pump?



I was disappointed by the second leak so soon after the first but i did not know how to go about questioning it, it bought it was just a loose hose.
I did not want to be seen as questioning them, only because i don't know much about cars.

The only reason i felt their story had some truth in it is because i had a look and they both seemed to leak from different areas.
They said maybe after the system was pressurised it may have caused another leak, then i was told it was the water pump.
Incidentally, i may not trust them exactly 100%, but they are the only Rover specialist in Sydney, but have a reputation for being very expensive, if i get the parts from them what will cost me $600 from the UK, turns into $1800 from them.

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by phenonix

When you say this "see any pink liquid or white powdery deposits? If so, that’s antifreeze and indicates a leak."
Does that confirm it is the water pump?

No, it confirms that it is a leaking 'O' ring on the plastic pipework in the 'V' (this is a very common occurrance on the V6). Here's what mine looked like when it was leaking:

I did not want to be seen as questioning them, only because i don't know much about cars.

I completely understand, but you're learning a bit now though!

Simon

[phenonix]

Asked the question today "100% sure it is the water pump?"
Reply was, "where the leek is coming from it can only be the pump"

As they recommend i don't drive the car i've had to leave it there, so i cannot check where you suggested Simon.

[phenonix]

Wondering if i get Kaiser's housing installed at the same time?

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by phenonix

Wondering if i get Kaiser's housing installed at the same time?

The cause of leaks in the ‘V’ is flattened ‘O’ rings Joe. I have proved that on my own car by refitting the housing you see in my last post (with new ‘O’ rings). After much experimentation and deduction to determine why the rings flatten on some cars and not others, I believe that it’s due to incorrect installation of the strange plastic clips seen in my photograph around the ends of the straight pipe. They act as stops to prevent the straight pipe moving in and out of the ‘stat housing (and water pump) which was what was happening with my engine. I’ve repositioned these stops correctly to prevent this and a trial is currently in progress with no leaks to date.

Installing the complete set of Kaiser’s metal parts may well cure the problem by virtue of their inherent rigidity. Alternatively you can just replace the ‘O’ rings and set the stops correctly on your existing plastic parts to achieve the same result at a fraction of the cost.

Simon

[victorgte]

I would not be happy with the garage at this point.
Different engine but my K series 1.8 was leaking from the water pump but only when the car was idle. You could see a slow drip in the pump area and of course the only staining was at the pump and below. I could drive it 100 miles with no loss of coolant as the engine and seals were hot and expanded therefore preventing any leak. The drip started when it all cooled down.
I hate it when they diagnose a fault and repair only to find the problem again. It’s smells of them taking a guess. Replacing the coolant bottle is easy so they try that first.
Take off the top cover and poke a torch at the V. It’s your money they are spending.