Metal slave cylinder worth it?

[HarryM1BYT]

Originally Posted by bluenoseSOTV

Yea the inlet pipe on the slave is firm, the bleed side wobbles everywhere, suspect it is damaged then and probably source of leak or air ingress

Whoever came up with the idea of slave inside the box is a right ****

A concentric slave is now standard fit on all modern cars.

[bluenoseSOTV]

Yea the slave has copper pipe at the mo. Been looking at the flexi stuff for my overhaul.

As far as driving style, yes I know it makes a difference. But this is not the problem with this car

[maxi_crawf]

Originally Posted by bluenoseSOTV

127k. It's a diesel. I've owned it since 97k

First clutch came with car, really heavy, went

Second clutch low biting point could not change gear, believe slave gone from new

Third smoked friction disc 25k

Fourth just in, didn't replace slave as only 25k. Low biting point struggling to get in gear, looks like slave gone again

Mine is a 51 plate Conny CDT with 202K on the clock, the original clutch, pressure plate and slave (and confirmed as such) were replaced at 194K by Andy Willi.

[DMGRS]

Originally Posted by FrenchMike

Hi Mat,

To me the weak point is the seal ,not the body .

Do you know what kind of seal is fitted in the metal slave ?

I fear they are all the same ...

I you can show it has been improved,i purchase one

(still a air ingress in my circuit,no fluid loss !)

Mike

It's funny, I thought *exactly* this when the design first came out - having seen the seal pictures posted here.

I would hope the abrasion between polished alloy and rubber is better than between plastic and rubber (as per the original and LUK item) - but perhaps someone with more experience of this can comment. Definitely not my area of expertise!

Bearing failure is still a common LUK failure mode, hopefully the Metal Slave uses something a little more substantial. But I agree with comments re: the seal - it depends if the design is different, and of course on the abrasion mentioned above.

When our new batch lands, I'll get the tools out...

[FrenchMike]

Originally Posted by DMGRS

It's funny, I thought *exactly* this when the design first came out - having seen the seal pictures posted here.

I would hope the abrasion between polished alloy and rubber is better than between plastic and rubber (as per the original and LUK item) - but perhaps someone with more experience of this can comment. Definitely not my area of expertise!

Bearing failure is still a common LUK failure mode, hopefully the Metal Slave uses something a little more substantial. But I agree with comments re: the seal - it depends if the design is different, and of course on the abrasion mentioned above.

When our new batch lands, I'll get the tools out...

It would be very interesting ,on a failed metal slave ,to observe the state of
the seal ....

The rear rim desintegrate mainly while the first thousands miles

I noticed on three samples i have had ,the references were the same (including your B&B)

[neilb740]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

After 30 seconds of him riding the clutch at a set of traffic lights, I could stand it no more and reached over and knocked the car into neutral.

So before condemning the car, perhaps sometimes we should question our driving styles once in a while

Brian

I did the same when I was out with SWMBO (she's still a Learner driver) she says her driving instructor told her to do it that way

[bluenoseSOTV]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

As a bit of advice, either you are using extremely poor quality or incorrect parts, or your fitting technique is poor.

I rather think that the longevity or rather lack of it, of good quality clutch hydraulic parts from a reputable source, is down to poor installation.

Every clutch I have replaced in these cars, in all but one case have been carried out with compete removal of the subframe, removal of the gearbox, cleaning thoroughly the bell housing and input shaft sleeve.

With the gearbox sat in front of you, it is easy to install the slave without subjecting it to undue stress either to the pipework, or the cylinder itself.

Similarly when refitting the gearbox, the small lug on the top of the box adjacent to the pipework exit grommet, is absolutely perfectly balanced for attaching the lifting eyelet and hoisting the gearbox back into position.


Also when refitting the gearbox, a couple of short lengths of M12 studding screwed into diagonally opposing holes in the engine allow for the perfect alignment of the gearbox to engine mating.

Result, the clutch you fit, you fit once, and don't have to repeat every other weekend, at the rate you seem to be going through them, is about six months in my motoring terms, and four clutches in six months is excessive by any standard.

Have a look at the items in question, they can be found HERE they are not for me, I'm quite happy with 100K plus with the OEM items


Brian

thanks for tips, some good pointers I will use when I do the job. I think I've secured a 2 post for the day which will make subframe off easier.

When you say happy with OEM components, what brand of clutch/slave is OEM?

[bluenoseSOTV]

Originally Posted by DMGRS

It's funny, I thought *exactly* this when the design first came out - having seen the seal pictures posted here.

I would hope the abrasion between polished alloy and rubber is better than between plastic and rubber (as per the original and LUK item) - but perhaps someone with more experience of this can comment. Definitely not my area of expertise!

Bearing failure is still a common LUK failure mode, hopefully the Metal Slave uses something a little more substantial. But I agree with comments re: the seal - it depends if the design is different, and of course on the abrasion mentioned above.

When our new batch lands, I'll get the tools out...

If previous posts are correct and bad driving results in heat transfer from clutch to slave damaging seals I would think this would be made worse by being metal as it would conduct the heat more

Anyway, are these not in stock for me to order now since your waiting for a new batch?

Also the two year warranty your offering with these, is it unlimited mileage? also does it cover the rest of the clutch which will get contaminated if it does fail?

I guarantee I will buy the one that fails, you shouldn't sell me one

[EastPete]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

As a bit of advice, either you are using extremely poor quality or incorrect parts, or your fitting technique is poor.

I rather think that the longevity or rather lack of it, of good quality clutch hydraulic parts from a reputable source, is down to poor installation.

Every clutch I have replaced in these cars, in all but one case have been carried out with compete removal of the subframe, removal of the gearbox, cleaning thoroughly the bell housing and input shaft sleeve.

With the gearbox sat in front of you, it is easy to install the slave without subjecting it to undue stress either to the pipework, or the cylinder itself.

Similarly when refitting the gearbox, the small lug on the top of the box adjacent to the pipework exit grommet, is absolutely perfectly balanced for attaching the lifting eyelet and hoisting the gearbox back into position.


Also when refitting the gearbox, a couple of short lengths of M12 studding screwed into diagonally opposing holes in the engine allow for the perfect alignment of the gearbox to engine mating.

Result, the clutch you fit, you fit once, and don't have to repeat every other weekend, at the rate you seem to be going through them, is about six months in my motoring terms, and four clutches in six months is excessive by any standard.

Have a look at the items in question, they can be found HERE they are not for me, I'm quite happy with 100K plus with the OEM items


Brian

Brian

Out of interest, when fitting the clutch to the 75, do you use any moly grease on the input shaft splines/release bearing face/input shaft sleeve (as suggested by Haynes) ?. Andy Willi advised against this when he did my clutch since it can attract friction material dust as the clutch wears, and cause judder problems.

Cheers

Pete

[arnosvale65]

I have just had my clutch master cylinder done. My pedal hit the floor, managed to pull it up, gave it a few pumps and all was well. Tried it the next day and still OK. Took it into MJN in Bristol who diagnosed the master cylinder. I said to Mark that I would get a metal one and he disagreed. He has now fitted an original one, changed the fluid and all seems well. He said the bottom of the bell housing was dry but that the fluid was dirty. He then showed me the metal cyl he took off which had a tear in the dust cover allowing dirt to enter past the piston. The car has done 194000 by the way.