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31st May 2015, 17:35 | #31 |
This is my second home
none but not gone Join Date: Mar 2013
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I could never remember which... but knew it was one of the two...
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]….All praise Bananaswan…. |
31st May 2015, 17:46 | #32 |
This is my second home
Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Aug 2007
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1st June 2015, 15:30 | #33 |
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I had EXACTLY the same symptoms once where the car drove as usually to work but wouldn't start when I got out. Left the car at work that night ,returned in the morning and it started 1st time. Next couple of weeks the engine management light would flicker on and off...someone on here(forgive for forgetting who) suggested i check the plug at the top of the fuel filter assembly...i remove and refitted and not had a problem in 3 months...worth a try
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3rd June 2015, 07:28 | #34 |
This is my second home
Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009
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You are forgiven Nicky.
Simon, as mentioned best to either get the car on a diagnostic or do some checks yourself to find out exactly what is wrong. If the engine starts and runs OK after a sniff of Easystart then carry out an injector leakback test. The engine driven high pressure fuel pump is only turning at 3/4 engine speed so when cranking, if there is a leaking injector, the fuel pressure in the common rail won't get high enough for the ECM to initiate the injectors firing. The Easystart speeds the engine up enough to overcome the pressure loss, and, once started, the pump can then cope. If the cam sensor is faulty, no amount of Easystart will allow the engine to run. The ECM needs to check the initial cam position (as the cams rotate at half engine speed) at start up and then it ignores the cam sensor until the next start up. It knows that for every two turns of the crankshaft the camshafts will turn once so it uses just the crank sensor once the engine has started. So a faulty crank sensor can give you problems after the engine has started but a faulty cam sensor can't. Also, although the cam sensors usually start to fail when warm, they can fail from cold - mine did. |
3rd June 2015, 15:18 | #35 |
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Thanks for all the info everybody. Hopefully seeing Phil T4 the weekend to get it all checked out and get the 160 map put on it.
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3rd June 2015, 16:23 | #36 | |
This is my second home
75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD Join Date: May 2010
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Quote:
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Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money. |
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3rd June 2015, 17:17 | #37 |
This is my second home
Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009
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Close but that's the test for the crank sensor Harry.
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3rd June 2015, 17:21 | #38 |
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Good decision, will save scratch your head with a hit or miss approach to sorting your car out. BTW do you still have the 1.8T that needed work doing to the engine, or have you moved it on.
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3rd June 2015, 19:15 | #39 |
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The 1.8t was stripped and scrapped today as ive got the diesel now and dont need the 1.8t. I swapped parts over from the 1.8t to the diesel. All i need are the boot struts and an engine cover
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