|
||
|
11th August 2018, 11:19 | #61 |
same car since 2005
2001 Rover 75 2.0 v6 Connoisseur Saloon Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ellesmere Port , Cheshire
Posts: 3,818
Thanks: 379
Thanked 549 Times in 466 Posts
|
Really don't think the "torsional" stiffness of these bushes is very relevant
The poly bushes have none , being free to rotate , and the vertical rotation of the arm is controlled by the coil spring and damper far more than that bush . The bush provides location fixing and sound damping . Those of us who have driven with a completely destroyed bush will know you don't feel "unbalanced" !
__________________
Who said it was simples ? Last edited by chris75; 11th August 2018 at 11:21.. |
24th November 2018, 19:13 | #62 |
I really should get out more.......
MGTF, MGZT, Range Rover Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Cheltenham
Posts: 2,807
Thanks: 395
Thanked 633 Times in 446 Posts
|
I’ve read this fascinating thread and a couple of older ones too.
It seems to be a minefield of cheap and nasty parts that are not worth fitting. Some parts are just too cheap and it must be assumed they are of inferior quality. I too need to fit front lower arm rear bushes but Unipart and First Line seem to have either disappeared or don’t supply. Where to get quality then? Looks like Powerflex is the way forward. Suggestions welcome.
__________________
MG TF 135, MG ZT, Range Rover P38 |
24th November 2018, 20:40 | #63 |
Avid contributor
ZT-T Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: In the trees, near Caernarfon... and frequently Aberdeenshire, and sometimes Romania..
Posts: 143
Thanks: 5
Thanked 36 Times in 29 Posts
|
Do we know the Shore hardness of the rubber? I'm wondering if it might be better to re-cast the bushes DIY, with something like the Belzona 2xxx compounds.
I've had good results on a small scale repairing obsolete vacuum pump mountings by hacking the perished rubber off their end plates, and casting new ones in a carboard mould. The compounds are expensive, but with chinky-clone bushes lasting only a few K, it might be worth it? |
25th November 2018, 02:25 | #64 |
This is my second home
75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Johannesburg ZA
Posts: 6,200
Thanks: 1
Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts
|
I have mine re-manufactured. Cast in polyurethane.
Use a 25mm bolt with three nuts for the internal hole. Don't worry about the cut out. Works perfectly.
__________________
Worth his V8 in gold |
25th November 2018, 12:02 | #65 |
Avid contributor
75 Saloon petrol 2.5 Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: England
Posts: 193
Thanks: 11
Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts
|
And it no harder ride (or ok) Casting polyurethane down the side gaps? I'm going to have to do this with mine as I can't find a Left unipart bush. (polly was Plan A)
I'm glad this thread has been bumped. I would just like to add the YR2000 OEM bushes have a large gap down the sides. I also purchased 2 bushes off ebay branded unipart, from the same seller, and they are different. One large gap, one small gap. Annoying both right side! |
25th November 2018, 12:26 | #66 |
I really should get out more.......
MG ZT-T 260 Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Witney
Posts: 2,508
Thanks: 6
Thanked 910 Times in 571 Posts
|
I agree on the Superflex, I fitted them 2 years ago and have so far had no problem. They sharpen the steering up nicely and I think the ride comfort is slightly better.
|
1st December 2018, 10:44 | #67 |
Gets stuck in
Rover 75 Diesel Tourer, called Perseverance Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 664
Thanks: 189
Thanked 157 Times in 108 Posts
|
Suitable tool
To replace the bush, is the best tool a 22mm flexible head ratchet spanner, such as the Silverline 571523 on eBay, item number 182365976633?
Is there a better tool ? |
2nd December 2018, 16:18 | #68 |
Avid contributor
75 Saloon petrol 2.5 Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: England
Posts: 193
Thanks: 11
Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts
|
|
2nd December 2018, 17:29 | #69 |
Give to Learn
Freelander 2 Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 18,795
Thanks: 1,155
Thanked 6,407 Times in 3,874 Posts
|
Hi Andy.
Your thought is correct 18mm ratchet is good to use once you have cracked the nut, to crack the nut and good knuckle socket is best, or an Aviation spanner modified
__________________
Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " |
2nd December 2018, 22:27 | #70 |
Gets stuck in
Rover 75 Diesel Tourer, called Perseverance Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 664
Thanks: 189
Thanked 157 Times in 108 Posts
|
I stand corrected. (M14 bolt head is normally a 22mm).
FYI I want to get suitable tools ready before I jack the car up. How about a Silverline 656621 18mm flexible head spanner, such as item 182364821115 on eBay. Is a modified aviation spanner essentially a long ring spanner with a bend to improve access ? Is there enough access space for a 18mm 1/2" socket, and a universal joint ? I understand the bolts need to be tightened to 150Nm torque. Do you have pictures Arctic please ? Last edited by MarkS; 2nd December 2018 at 22:31.. |
|
|