Protecting new parts from rust

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Originally Posted by T16

Uve no choice but to powdercoat it really, it rubs in the bushes and paint would just wear off. At least the hardened powder coat would last longer than paint for that specific application.

I see your point about the bushes rubbing ordinary paint off - I hadn't thought of that.

What type of blasting did you use? (e.g. sand, dustless, soda)

I've spoken to a few blast cleaning outfits and most of them have said the bushes need to be removed first. That's 10 bushes altogether, plus all the rollbar bits & bobs. I think my chances of getting 10 bushes out and back in again without damaging them (or the part) are nil.

Maybe I should try an industrial strength paint stripper instead?

Originally Posted by ceedy

...... in this case I would give any part you want to protect an good coating of " BondaPrimer" and then as many coats as you fancy of a Rubberized Sill guard type paint . and then as mentioned before what ever is your favourite cavity wax , smother the insides.

Did mine 5 years ago and still looks the same

I've never heard of BondaPrimer - is this the stuff? Presumably it goes straight onto bare metal?

I'm not sure what you mean by "Rubberized Sill guard type paint" - have you got a link I can look at?

[ceedy]

I've never heard of BondaPrimer - is this the stuff? Presumably it goes straight onto bare metal? you can use in on anything , I have on over old paint . with no problems ..





I'm not sure what you mean by "Rubberized Sill guard type paint" - have you got a link I can look at?[/QUOTE]


I used this stuff but there lots of types and colours about

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Originally Posted by ceedy

I used this stuff but there lots of types and colours about

Ah yes, stone chip paint - I have heard of that. In fact I've already bought some of this

They both look like they do the same job.

Btw, Tetrosyl own this lot - https://www.tetrosyl.com/our-brands/

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It's taken weeks but these new parts are almost ready to go on the car (I'm just waiting for some more bolts).

The parts have been sandblasted, then treated with Metal Prep, then given two or three coats of POR15 and finally two or three coats of Chassis Black.

The plan is to:

A) Blast Dynax S50 into the insides of the subframe and upper arms
B) Coat the upper surface of the subframe in Dynax UB or UC
C) Coat all other surfaces of subframe & upper arms with Dynax UB or UC

I can't decide whether to do A) and B) before or after the subframe & upper arms are bolted to the car. Before is obviously easier but then I'll be trying to lift parts that are covered in slippery wax.

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PS. I also can't decide whether it's worth putting stone chip paint (see post 23) in between the Chassis Black and the Dynax S50. Maybe it's overkill.

[clf]

Originally Posted by Blink

It's taken weeks but these new parts are almost ready to go on the car (I'm just waiting for some more bolts).

The parts have been sandblasted, then treated with Metal Prep, then given two or three coats of POR15 and finally two or three coats of Chassis Black.

The plan is to:

A) Blast Dynax S50 into the insides of the subframe and upper arms
B) Coat the upper surface of the subframe in Dynax UB or UC
C) Coat all other surfaces of subframe & upper arms with Dynax UB or UC

I can't decide whether to do A) and B) before or after the subframe & upper arms are bolted to the car. Before is obviously easier but then I'll be trying to lift parts that are covered in slippery wax.

After.

As you slippery wax all over and possibly dribbling onto you. It is quite easy to get into all the nooks and crannies once fitted.

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Originally Posted by clf

After.

As you slippery wax all over and possibly dribbling onto you. It is quite easy to get into all the nooks and crannies once fitted.

The problem with doing it after is the number of holes in the subframe and arms - I think it's something like 15 in the long legs of the subframe and another 30 in the two upper arms. Unless they're taped up, the S50 will shoot out of them and go everywhere.

Even using tape (off the car) this stuff is difficult to control - I did the trailing arms earlier (20 holes) and it still made a mess.

[clf]

Originally Posted by Blink

The problem with doing it after is the number of holes in the subframe and arms - I think it's something like 15 in the long legs of the subframe and another 30 in the two upper arms. Unless they're taped up, the S50 will shoot out of them and go everywhere.

Even using tape (off the car) this stuff is difficult to control - I did the trailing arms earlier (20 holes) and it still made a mess.

I havent used the Dynax stuff, just Dinitrol, with the 360 degree lance. Not much flowed out, as it more or less stuck where it landed., and those holes helped me get into everywhere. Where I couldnt get the lance all the way in, I poked the tip inside a hold, and rotated the nozzle. Two years on, it still appears to be on the inside of the arms (I didnt look at the subframe, but not concerned.