brake hose clamp pliers

[Blink]

Originally Posted by COLVERT

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Trident-T4...-/151343184124

I'll go for those if the new plan A doesn't work.

Plan A - one of these screwed onto the caliper end of the hose https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p...-cap-bbu-cap-m. I spoke to Merlin and that's what they thought was the best bet, so I've ordered two.

[Blink]

Originally Posted by Blink

.... Plan A - one of these screwed onto the caliper end of the hose https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p...-cap-bbu-cap-m. I spoke to Merlin and that's what they thought was the best bet, so I've ordered two.

If anyone else needs to do this, those blanking caps work a treat - whip the calipers off the hoses, screw the caps straight on and nip them up with a spanner. I managed to do it with virtually no fluid leakage at all.

Thanks go to the excellent John at Merlin.

[Blink]

NB. The ZT might have different hoses to the 75 (?) so ZT owners might need different caps to the M10x1 Female version mentioned above.

[fandango151]

There is another way to attack this taught to me by an old school mechanic I helped years ago.

Cling film and a rubber band over the reservoir. If you are goo and make a seal, very little fluid will come out and you can bleed only the one leg you disturbed.

[marinabrian]

Are you ready to hear the easiest way of doing this

Open the bleed nipple on the NSR caliper, fit a pipe to the nipple and lead this into a container go inside the car, and press the pedal to the floor.

Now with a piece of timber which you have already cut to approximately the length of the distance between the pedal on the floor and the seat cushion front, protecting the seat with a cloth or similar, wedge the pedal to the floor, and exit the car.

If you want to be posh, use a brake pedal depressor tool, however if the brake pedal is held to the floor, then absolutely no fluid will be lost through siphoning action.

I use this method when replacing front to rear pipework

Brian

[Blink]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

Are you ready to hear the easiest way of doing this

Open the bleed nipple on the NSR caliper, fit a pipe to the nipple and lead this into a container go inside the car, and press the pedal to the floor.

....if the brake pedal is held to the floor, then absolutely no fluid will be lost through siphoning action.

I don't understand that at all - surely pressing the pedal will just force fluid out of the open NSR nipple and into the container.

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by Blink

I don't understand that at all - surely pressing the pedal will just force fluid out of the open NSR nipple and into the container.

Yes this is absolutely correct, and if you re read the post, the next stage is to wedge the pedal to the floor using a piece of wood, to prevent it returning under spring pressure

The purpose of opening the NSR nipple is this is the farthest from the master cylinder in a RHD car, and what you want is the pedal to be on the floor before it is wedged.

What happens when the pedal is fully depressed in this manner is the makeup valve in the master cylinder is covered, and it does not allow any fluid to pass from the reservoir, thus preventing fluid loss completely.

I can replace the fixed lines individually using this method, and using the bleed sequence specified, and completely change all of the fluid without waste, or risk of introducing air into the ABS modulator either.

Give it a try, my pet hate when doing jobs like this is having brake fluid all over the place, and it actually works

Brian

[Blink]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

Yes this is absolutely correct, and if you re read the post, the next stage is to wedge the pedal to the floor using a piece of wood, to prevent it returning under spring pressure

The purpose of opening the NSR nipple is this is the farthest from the master cylinder in a RHD car, and what you want is the pedal to be on the floor before it is wedged.

What happens when the pedal is fully depressed in this manner is the makeup valve in the master cylinder is covered, and it does not allow any fluid to pass from the reservoir, thus preventing fluid loss completely.

I can replace the fixed lines individually using this method, and using the bleed sequence specified, and completely change all of the fluid without waste, or risk of introducing air into the ABS modulator either.

Give it a try, my pet hate when doing jobs like this is having brake fluid all over the place, and it actually works

Brian

Ah, I see. So I can use the above method to fit new rear hoses and not have any fluid loss when I disconnect the old hoses (which are capped off at the moment).

Excellent, thanks Brian.

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by Blink

Ah, I see. So I can use the above method to fit new rear hoses and not have any fluid loss when I disconnect the old hoses (which are capped off at the moment).

Excellent, thanks Brian.

Yes--BUT--you might end up with a bubble or two in the system if you don't work fast.---

[Blink]

Originally Posted by COLVERT

Yes--BUT--you might end up with a bubble or two in the system if you don't work fast.---

I'll do my best - not easy to do anything fast though when I'm lying upside down in the muck.

Another thought occurs. Presumably when Brian says "press the pedal to the floor" he literally means the floor - in which case I could have a spot of bother cutting the wedge stick to length while I'm sat in the driver's seat holding the pedal down. Hmm.

Now where's that glamorous assistant gone?