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16th September 2019, 18:55 | #21 | |
Doesn't do things by halves
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007
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Quote:
Simon
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"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce. |
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16th September 2019, 19:39 | #22 |
This is my second home
R75 Saloon. Join Date: Feb 2009
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Further to this alternator, battery voltage thread.
I've just come back in from testing the alternator output with the engine ticking over. ( Diesel. ) 1/ Nothing electrical switched on.---14.55 volts. approx. 2/ Dipped lights on. ---14.53 volts. approx. 2/ Head and dip lights on together. ---14.50 volts. approx. The battery voltage before I started the test was 12.65 volts. I now and then check the battery the day after the car has been in use. It varies from 12.6 to 12.75 volts. My car will have been on the road 16 years in December and the current battery is number three. ( In use 4 years, approx. ) The alternator has never been touched. It would seem then that the car electrics and previous batteries have all been happy at the above mentioned voltages. From this I would suggest to the OP that he has nothing to worry about with the reading he gave us of his alternators output. |
16th September 2019, 21:19 | #23 | |
Gets stuck in
MG ZT 260, Rover 75 Connie SE auto Join Date: Feb 2013
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Quote:
I charged with a CTEK MXS-5.0 overnight. Charger voltage was 13.75v at 10pm. Current draw with everything off was always 1.35-1.4 amps. Final reading of the charger this morning at 0800 was 13.50v and when taken off the battery was at 13.04 volts which dropped quickly to 12.7v in two minutes. Current drain steady at 1.4a. (Battery is fairly new Yusaka 80amp/hr with 720 cranking amps from Halfords ~ 1 year old with 5 yr guarantee ). I drove the car from Camborne to Truro and back today (approx 20 miles) I drove back in rain with wipers, heater, dipped lights and radio on and some use of electric windows. On parking back home the battery voltage was 12.32v at 5 pm. Current draw still 1.4a . With the engine on tickover with dipped lights, wipers and radio, the alternator voltage was 14.28. Just re-checked the current draw, and still 1.4 amps. If I remove the 50amp fuse FL3 the current drain stops, so it's something off that fuse, but not any of the other fuses or relays linked to FL3 in the fuse box. Sorry for the long description. Any ideas most welcome. |
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17th September 2019, 07:05 | #24 | |
Doesn't do things by halves
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007
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Quote:
Simon
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"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce. |
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17th September 2019, 09:25 | #25 | |
Gets stuck in
MG ZT 260, Rover 75 Connie SE auto Join Date: Feb 2013
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Quote:
I put a Sealey Automotive TA126 fused 30a tester in series with the battery in the boot so everything should be going through it. I left it on and removed every fuse, one by one, and every relay, one by one that was in the fuse box. The only one that stopped the current drain was removing FL3 50A. If I leave the battery connected, from full charge to can't turn over the engine is about 48 hrs. |
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17th September 2019, 10:54 | #26 | ||
Doesn't do things by halves
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007
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Quote:
Quote:
Simon
__________________
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce. |
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17th September 2019, 11:53 | #27 | |
Gets stuck in
MG ZT 260, Rover 75 Connie SE auto Join Date: Feb 2013
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Quote:
I didn't remember there was another fuse box. I should have because It was in the way when I did Arctic's sunroof drains modification.: That's definitely my project for tonight. Really appreciate your patience in pointing me in the right direction Report of findings to follow later this evening |
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17th September 2019, 12:08 | #28 |
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I would check the current drain after everything switched off , doors locked & immobilized. You can leave the bonnet open to get at the battery, if you operate the bonnet latches to fool the electronics that the bonnet is closed. Then check after 20 mins or so , so that all the ecu's have time to "sleep"
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17th September 2019, 17:28 | #29 | |
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Quote:
That's quite some power drain. I don't think that 20 minutes rest will tell very much. He has a component somewhere that NEVER sleeps.--- |
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17th September 2019, 22:28 | #30 |
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Well I managed to pull every fuse and relay individually and there was no current draw on any of them on the right hand panel except 29 (to the instrument panel?) which was showing a 0-0.1 amps fluctuating. When I put back in fuse 36 there was a single beep, so I was quite disappointed to find nothing more. I attached the Sealey current meter to my battery in the boot and pushed it through the ski slot in the back seat so I could view it through the rear nearside window. I then locked up the whole car leaving the current meter connected for over thirty minutes. Right now, to my total disbelief, it's reading the same as when I pulled fuse 29 at 0-0.1a However, if the car is designed to draw even 0.1a continuously, then it would seem to be unwise to park it for a two week holiday unless the battery was fully charged and you were carrying jump leads for your return. Thank you to everyone for taking the trouble to post. I was convinced I had a major fault. I'll keep observing and testing to see how long the battery lasts now. Here's hoping the 20a fuse I put in the Sealey is big enough to cope with the boot opening relay current tomorrow night when I'll check the battery voltage again. 12.4v tonight at 23.30.
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