Winter Blues

wraymond · 23rd January 2018, 17:33

After 8 years trouble-free a gremlin has had the cheek to move in and live under the bonnet.

Car failed to start. The dreaded clicking, – test meter showed down to 8v. So battery out and charged to ‘full’ and replaced in car. 2 days later, same fault, repeated charging and same fault again 2 days later. Called RAC who recommended a new battery considering it was the original one!

That was March 2017. October 2017, all happening again. RAC called, test diagnosis (see below) showing a drain of -2.4 amps. He replaced battery under guarantee but was unable to find the fault. The fault continues.

So far one auto electrician has failed to reply to enquiries and two local garages have been unable to give any indication of source of trouble! One place said it would take two days labour! Even left car overnight unlocked and unalarmed to see if that made any difference. Battery does not lose charge overnight when left unconnected.

Apart from Rover withdrawal pains, I also have the misfortune to be forced to bring my MX-5 out of winter lay-up. I know, sadness all round.

Is there anyone within 100 miles of me to whom I can travel and engage on a professional basis to diagnose/repair?

RAC
Battery test results:

Measured voltage 8.93 volts
Measured rating 24EN
State of health 40%
State of charge 0%
Starter average voltage 11.23 volts
“ 31.7 amps
Starter result decision normal
Alternator voltage (unloaded) 0 volts
(loaded) 14.25 volts
Alternator current (unloaded) 0 amps
(loaded) 30.4 amps
Diode decision normal
Alternator test decision normal
First drain test voltage 8.94 volts
First drain test current -0.3 amps
Second drain test voltage 11.75 volts
Second drain test current -2.4 amps

steve-45 · 23rd January 2018, 17:44

Have you got a SAT-NAV disc drive in the boot ?

wraymond · 23rd January 2018, 17:59

Greetings Steve, no such luck. It did however occur to me that some cars have been heavily modded by amateurs and may be compromised. Mine hasn't and is as it came from the factory. My satnav thinks it's a cigar!

frankson · 23rd January 2018, 18:49

I expect you have checked already, are the glovebox and boot light switching off when closed?

marinabrian · 23rd January 2018, 20:08

Make sure the light switch backlight isn't remaining lit after the car is locked, this is a common cause of current drain as it prevents the BCU going to sleep

Brian

Comfortably Numb · 23rd January 2018, 21:54

As well as the above suggestions, check as many electrical connector blocks for road/engine muck, usually under the car. Especially salt road spray at this time of year, can produce a weak, but constant earth drain from poorly protected connections, and as yours is an auto, it may have more in vulnerable places. Also places where vibration/rubbing could wear through wire insulation.

wraymond · 24th January 2018, 16:54

Thanks to the above for the suggestions. No joy to date. Have resorted to disconnecting battery when car not needed until a suitable garage can be found.

wraymond · 5th February 2018, 17:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by marinabrian

Make sure the light switch backlight isn't remaining lit after the car is locked, this is a common cause of current drain as it prevents the BCU going to sleep

Brian

Sorry to resurrect this but it might help others if similarly afflicted.
Spot on Brian! It was a bit beyond me but under recommendation from another member, Kerridges of Needham Market diagnosed and fixed. Excellent service and pleasant people! A shame I don't live nearer Brian but they are less than an hour away! Thanks to all.

marinabrian · 7th February 2018, 20:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by wraymond

Sorry to resurrect this but it might help others if similarly afflicted.
Spot on Brian! It was a bit beyond me but under recommendation from another member, Kerridges of Needham Market diagnosed and fixed. Excellent service and pleasant people! A shame I don't live nearer Brian but they are less than an hour away! Thanks to all.

For reference, if you'd asked me I could have supplied you a replacement LSM coded to suit your car.......the cost £25 including post.

So a ten minute job to fit and normal service would have been restored

Nice to hear you got to the bottom of the problem though

Brian

steve-45 · 7th February 2018, 20:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by wraymond

A shame I don't live nearer Brian but they are less than an hour away! Thanks to all.

I think most of the 75 community would like to live closer to Brian.

23rd January 2018, 17:33	#1
wraymond This is my second home 75 Auto 2.5 SE Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Westcliff on Sea Posts: 5,195 Thanks: 423 Thanked 1,680 Times in 1,014 Posts	Winter Blues After 8 years trouble-free a gremlin has had the cheek to move in and live under the bonnet. Car failed to start. The dreaded clicking, – test meter showed down to 8v. So battery out and charged to ‘full’ and replaced in car. 2 days later, same fault, repeated charging and same fault again 2 days later. Called RAC who recommended a new battery considering it was the original one! That was March 2017. October 2017, all happening again. RAC called, test diagnosis (see below) showing a drain of -2.4 amps. He replaced battery under guarantee but was unable to find the fault. The fault continues. So far one auto electrician has failed to reply to enquiries and two local garages have been unable to give any indication of source of trouble! One place said it would take two days labour! Even left car overnight unlocked and unalarmed to see if that made any difference. Battery does not lose charge overnight when left unconnected. Apart from Rover withdrawal pains, I also have the misfortune to be forced to bring my MX-5 out of winter lay-up. I know, sadness all round. Is there anyone within 100 miles of me to whom I can travel and engage on a professional basis to diagnose/repair? RAC Battery test results: Measured voltage 8.93 volts Measured rating 24EN State of health 40% State of charge 0% Starter average voltage 11.23 volts “ 31.7 amps Starter result decision normal Alternator voltage (unloaded) 0 volts (loaded) 14.25 volts Alternator current (unloaded) 0 amps (loaded) 30.4 amps Diode decision normal Alternator test decision normal First drain test voltage 8.94 volts First drain test current -0.3 amps Second drain test voltage 11.75 volts Second drain test current -2.4 amps __________________ member no. 235

23rd January 2018, 17:59	#3
wraymond This is my second home 75 Auto 2.5 SE Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Westcliff on Sea Posts: 5,195 Thanks: 423 Thanked 1,680 Times in 1,014 Posts	Greetings Steve, no such luck. It did however occur to me that some cars have been heavily modded by amateurs and may be compromised. Mine hasn't and is as it came from the factory. My satnav thinks it's a cigar! __________________ member no. 235

23rd January 2018, 18:49	#4
frankson Avid contributor Rover 75 saloon auto KV6 Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: portsmouth Posts: 207 Thanks: 462 Thanked 88 Times in 48 Posts	Lights I expect you have checked already, are the glovebox and boot light switching off when closed?

24th January 2018, 16:54	#7
wraymond This is my second home 75 Auto 2.5 SE Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Westcliff on Sea Posts: 5,195 Thanks: 423 Thanked 1,680 Times in 1,014 Posts	Thanks to the above for the suggestions. No joy to date. Have resorted to disconnecting battery when car not needed until a suitable garage can be found. __________________ member no. 235

23rd January 2018, 17:44	#2
steve-45 This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon CDTi Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Belvedere Posts: 4,076 Thanks: 108 Thanked 1,089 Times in 774 Posts	Have you got a SAT-NAV disc drive in the boot ?

23rd January 2018, 20:08	#5
marinabrian MG ZT Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne Posts: 20,151 Thanks: 3,565 Thanked 10,837 Times in 5,718 Posts	Make sure the light switch backlight isn't remaining lit after the car is locked, this is a common cause of current drain as it prevents the BCU going to sleep Brian

23rd January 2018, 21:54	#6
Comfortably Numb Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Penrith Posts: 1,336 Thanks: 165 Thanked 303 Times in 241 Posts	As well as the above suggestions, check as many electrical connector blocks for road/engine muck, usually under the car. Especially salt road spray at this time of year, can produce a weak, but constant earth drain from poorly protected connections, and as yours is an auto, it may have more in vulnerable places. Also places where vibration/rubbing could wear through wire insulation.