HELP! - door actuator

SideValve · 31st August 2020, 16:49

So - after my MOT the drivers door central unlock gave up. I've done most of the advisories so this afternoon decided to fix the actuator.
Its not gone well :¬(

Two problems.
1: I cant get the bloomin thing out. Got it all disconnected dropped it down to the bottom and undid the lower window bolt but cannot squeeze it past. Is there a way without removing the top bolt too?

So I gave up for today and decided to reassemble. Going well then connecting the door hand rod and the pivot pinged off. Dont thnk I can get it back in without removing the handle. So
2: How do you remove the door handle?

SideValve · 31st August 2020, 16:59

Ah, think I've sorted getting the handle off, found the two screws :¬)

SideValve · 31st August 2020, 17:11

Hmmm, not that simple then - looks like the handle wont go past the window mechanism either...
I think I see where this is leading.

If I release the right hand side of the window mech how much pain am I letting myself in for?

SideValve · 31st August 2020, 17:49

Its going to be easier to buy a new door at this rate. Good job I dont need the car tomorrow!

So, windows mechanism released and I have the actuator out. Doesnt look there is much I can do with it. Will order a replacement from Rimmers unless someone on here has a good one they want to sell.

Door handle - cant get it past the glass :¬(
This is bad as the glass is right up so wont be any different wherever it goes. Might be able to get the handle out if I could remove the tumbler but cant see how to do that & guess its pretty secure. So I think I'm screwed unless I can find some magic way of getting the pivot & its spring back in as it is.

Dont suppose anyone has any pictures?

Or a spare door....

richw · 31st August 2020, 18:30

I have done then rear passenger one on mine. Very fiddly, and you keep thinking that it will be impossible, but it eventuality gets there.

I am sure I changed the door lock actuator without touching the door handle or the window/glass mechanism. Leave all that alone, as it will make your one hour job a three hour job!

I bought a second hand actuator from a local trader for something like £20.

COLVERT · 31st August 2020, 19:17

Hang on in there SIDEVALVE.--I'm sure an expert will be along very soon to ease your pain.

Lots of folk must have done the job you are attempting to do.--

macafee2 · 31st August 2020, 20:03

I did this job recently. If you want a hand pop down. PM me to chat

There is a breakers about 30 minutes from me, they may have one.
There are two bolts that hold part of the window mechanism on place. Loosen the top bolt, remove the bottom one. The actuator rolls around over the bit of frame that runs between the two bolts. By pushing the bottom of the mechanism towards the outer skin it helps to create enough space to roll the actuator passed.

Trikey may be able to give some advice, he gave me some a little while ago.
It is a shame you did not see my posts about this job as Trikey warned about the problem you have.

https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=307220
https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=307224
https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=307280

I did video some of the method but it was rubbish (it felt rubbish) and I felt stupid with what I did.

macafee2

SideValve · 31st August 2020, 20:08

Well I've had better days.

First the good news, one of the advisories was slightly clouded light so I used the t-cut light treatment I had in the garage but this time used a polishing attachment on the Dremel which was a lot quicker than manual polishing. Very pleasing results - will take a pic tomorrow. Also had the bright idea to use the same stuff on my boot badge - it had been very dull but now looks much better.

Thats when I said to the missus I'll attack the door while I'm on a roll. Should have rested on my laurels.

Just finished now and its all back together but worse than when I started :¬(
Got the actuator out but couldn't fix it. I can hear the solenoid click but nothing moves.
Didn't get the handle out but managed to get it to where I could see how the pivot should clip back in so managed that and got the handle back together & working.
When getting the actuator out I managed to snap the little green cliip that hold the door button rod in place....
Put it all back together as it lives on the drive so needs to be able to shut properly but now not only does it not auto unlock it also doesnt lock at all.

Being philosophical it was broken anyway so I still need the same part -and its all a learning curve - but its still irritating.

Ah the joy of old motors

Arctic · 1st September 2020, 09:15

Hi Peter.
The new actuator should have the green rod holding clip.

1

SideValve · 1st September 2020, 10:36

Thanks - I've ordered a 2nd hand actuator off ebay - only £20 so fingers crossed.
And think I've twigged what I did wrong with the locking - where the white clamp goes onto the slotted lever I had the peg at the bottom (the one below the tee) outside the slot. After that much fiddling my brain was befuddled.

31st August 2020, 16:49	#1
SideValve Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Oxford Posts: 767 Thanks: 141 Thanked 204 Times in 141 Posts	HELP! - door actuator So - after my MOT the drivers door central unlock gave up. I've done most of the advisories so this afternoon decided to fix the actuator. Its not gone well :¬( Two problems. 1: I cant get the bloomin thing out. Got it all disconnected dropped it down to the bottom and undid the lower window bolt but cannot squeeze it past. Is there a way without removing the top bolt too? So I gave up for today and decided to reassemble. Going well then connecting the door hand rod and the pivot pinged off. Dont thnk I can get it back in without removing the handle. So 2: How do you remove the door handle? __________________ The Story So Far: Austin A35, Morris Oxford, Triumph Herald, Mini 850, Mini 1000, Austin Allegro, MG Midget, MGB GT, Rover SD1 2600, Austin Maxi, Rover 200, Rover 825, Rover 800, Bedford TK, Range Rover 3.9 efi, Rover 400, Rover 100, MGF, Rover 25, Rover 75 1.8, Rover 75 Connoisseur SE 2.0 V6, MGF 1.8i, Rover 75 Connoisseur 2.0 V6 Auto, Morris Eight Series E, Morris Minor 1275.

31st August 2020, 16:59	#2
SideValve Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Oxford Posts: 767 Thanks: 141 Thanked 204 Times in 141 Posts	Ah, think I've sorted getting the handle off, found the two screws :¬) __________________ The Story So Far: Austin A35, Morris Oxford, Triumph Herald, Mini 850, Mini 1000, Austin Allegro, MG Midget, MGB GT, Rover SD1 2600, Austin Maxi, Rover 200, Rover 825, Rover 800, Bedford TK, Range Rover 3.9 efi, Rover 400, Rover 100, MGF, Rover 25, Rover 75 1.8, Rover 75 Connoisseur SE 2.0 V6, MGF 1.8i, Rover 75 Connoisseur 2.0 V6 Auto, Morris Eight Series E, Morris Minor 1275.

31st August 2020, 17:11	#3
SideValve Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Oxford Posts: 767 Thanks: 141 Thanked 204 Times in 141 Posts	Hmmm, not that simple then - looks like the handle wont go past the window mechanism either... I think I see where this is leading. If I release the right hand side of the window mech how much pain am I letting myself in for? __________________ The Story So Far: Austin A35, Morris Oxford, Triumph Herald, Mini 850, Mini 1000, Austin Allegro, MG Midget, MGB GT, Rover SD1 2600, Austin Maxi, Rover 200, Rover 825, Rover 800, Bedford TK, Range Rover 3.9 efi, Rover 400, Rover 100, MGF, Rover 25, Rover 75 1.8, Rover 75 Connoisseur SE 2.0 V6, MGF 1.8i, Rover 75 Connoisseur 2.0 V6 Auto, Morris Eight Series E, Morris Minor 1275.

31st August 2020, 17:49	#4
SideValve Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Oxford Posts: 767 Thanks: 141 Thanked 204 Times in 141 Posts	Its going to be easier to buy a new door at this rate. Good job I dont need the car tomorrow! So, windows mechanism released and I have the actuator out. Doesnt look there is much I can do with it. Will order a replacement from Rimmers unless someone on here has a good one they want to sell. Door handle - cant get it past the glass :¬( This is bad as the glass is right up so wont be any different wherever it goes. Might be able to get the handle out if I could remove the tumbler but cant see how to do that & guess its pretty secure. So I think I'm screwed unless I can find some magic way of getting the pivot & its spring back in as it is. Dont suppose anyone has any pictures? Or a spare door.... __________________ The Story So Far: Austin A35, Morris Oxford, Triumph Herald, Mini 850, Mini 1000, Austin Allegro, MG Midget, MGB GT, Rover SD1 2600, Austin Maxi, Rover 200, Rover 825, Rover 800, Bedford TK, Range Rover 3.9 efi, Rover 400, Rover 100, MGF, Rover 25, Rover 75 1.8, Rover 75 Connoisseur SE 2.0 V6, MGF 1.8i, Rover 75 Connoisseur 2.0 V6 Auto, Morris Eight Series E, Morris Minor 1275.

31st August 2020, 20:08	#8
SideValve Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Oxford Posts: 767 Thanks: 141 Thanked 204 Times in 141 Posts	Well I've had better days. First the good news, one of the advisories was slightly clouded light so I used the t-cut light treatment I had in the garage but this time used a polishing attachment on the Dremel which was a lot quicker than manual polishing. Very pleasing results - will take a pic tomorrow. Also had the bright idea to use the same stuff on my boot badge - it had been very dull but now looks much better. Thats when I said to the missus I'll attack the door while I'm on a roll. Should have rested on my laurels. Just finished now and its all back together but worse than when I started :¬( Got the actuator out but couldn't fix it. I can hear the solenoid click but nothing moves. Didn't get the handle out but managed to get it to where I could see how the pivot should clip back in so managed that and got the handle back together & working. When getting the actuator out I managed to snap the little green cliip that hold the door button rod in place.... Put it all back together as it lives on the drive so needs to be able to shut properly but now not only does it not auto unlock it also doesnt lock at all. Being philosophical it was broken anyway so I still need the same part -and its all a learning curve - but its still irritating. Ah the joy of old motors __________________ The Story So Far: Austin A35, Morris Oxford, Triumph Herald, Mini 850, Mini 1000, Austin Allegro, MG Midget, MGB GT, Rover SD1 2600, Austin Maxi, Rover 200, Rover 825, Rover 800, Bedford TK, Range Rover 3.9 efi, Rover 400, Rover 100, MGF, Rover 25, Rover 75 1.8, Rover 75 Connoisseur SE 2.0 V6, MGF 1.8i, Rover 75 Connoisseur 2.0 V6 Auto, Morris Eight Series E, Morris Minor 1275.

31st August 2020, 18:30	#5
richw Avid contributor Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: Stockton-on-Tees Posts: 243 Thanks: 6 Thanked 64 Times in 49 Posts	I have done then rear passenger one on mine. Very fiddly, and you keep thinking that it will be impossible, but it eventuality gets there. I am sure I changed the door lock actuator without touching the door handle or the window/glass mechanism. Leave all that alone, as it will make your one hour job a three hour job! I bought a second hand actuator from a local trader for something like £20.

31st August 2020, 19:17	#6
COLVERT This is my second home R75 Saloon. Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: France/or Devon. Posts: 14,003 Thanks: 3,851 Thanked 2,167 Times in 1,816 Posts	Hang on in there SIDEVALVE.--I'm sure an expert will be along very soon to ease your pain. Lots of folk must have done the job you are attempting to do.--

31st August 2020, 20:03	#7
macafee2 This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon & Tourer Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Lincoln Posts: 14,928 Thanks: 1,630 Thanked 3,032 Times in 2,181 Posts	I did this job recently. If you want a hand pop down. PM me to chat There is a breakers about 30 minutes from me, they may have one. There are two bolts that hold part of the window mechanism on place. Loosen the top bolt, remove the bottom one. The actuator rolls around over the bit of frame that runs between the two bolts. By pushing the bottom of the mechanism towards the outer skin it helps to create enough space to roll the actuator passed. Trikey may be able to give some advice, he gave me some a little while ago. It is a shame you did not see my posts about this job as Trikey warned about the problem you have. https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=307220 https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=307224 https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=307280 I did video some of the method but it was rubbish (it felt rubbish) and I felt stupid with what I did. macafee2

1st September 2020, 09:15	#9
Arctic Give to Learn Freelander 2 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: West Midlands Posts: 18,716 Thanks: 1,155 Thanked 6,407 Times in 3,874 Posts	Hi Peter. The new actuator should have the green rod holding clip. 1 __________________ Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise "

1st September 2020, 10:36	#10
SideValve Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Oxford Posts: 767 Thanks: 141 Thanked 204 Times in 141 Posts	Thanks - I've ordered a 2nd hand actuator off ebay - only £20 so fingers crossed. And think I've twigged what I did wrong with the locking - where the white clamp goes onto the slotted lever I had the peg at the bottom (the one below the tee) outside the slot. After that much fiddling my brain was befuddled. __________________ The Story So Far: Austin A35, Morris Oxford, Triumph Herald, Mini 850, Mini 1000, Austin Allegro, MG Midget, MGB GT, Rover SD1 2600, Austin Maxi, Rover 200, Rover 825, Rover 800, Bedford TK, Range Rover 3.9 efi, Rover 400, Rover 100, MGF, Rover 25, Rover 75 1.8, Rover 75 Connoisseur SE 2.0 V6, MGF 1.8i, Rover 75 Connoisseur 2.0 V6 Auto, Morris Eight Series E, Morris Minor 1275.