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Old 17th November 2019, 18:26   #11
Blink
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Originally Posted by Clickernick View Post
Forget all the pictures. Just do the two bolts that affix the calliper to the rest of the car nice and tight and tidy,,,job done! You don’t need pics and numbers to show you how to use a spanner on two bolts. Use common sense!!! Oh yeah!! That’s not so common!! ��
Guide pins - allen key extended with a box spanner. How's that for common sense.
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Old 17th November 2019, 19:00   #12
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I don't doubt it and that's one reason why I don't let garages repair my cars.

I recall reading many threads where members ask for advice about brake servicing and the point is always driven home that this part of the car is of the utmost importance. When a torque figure is specified for something which is critical in terms of safety, it should be adhered to whenever possible, but extending this principle to other parts enhances reliability and a feeling of confidence.

Simon
I suppose you use new bolts each time too Simon?, I know I do, and I have the necessary crowfoot adaptor to allow for the application of the correct torque, and also calculate the allowances for not being perpendicular to the bolt

By the way, and this is for Simon the OP benefit, the torque wrench setting for the caliper carrier to trailing arm bolts is 64Nm, and the caliper carrier to hub refers to the front brake caliper carrier, and is 100Nm.


There of course is no problem whatsoever if you do not possess the necessary equipment to make an informed "guess" at the correct figure......something you acquire as a "feel" given experience.

I can hear SD1too shrieking in horror at the very thought of it, however it's not as inaccurate as you might think, imagine your 13mm spanner is 8" long, then that is .66 of a foot, and the torque you wish to apply is 47 Ft/Lb, then if you divide 47 by .66 and apply the resultant 71 Lb to the end of the spanner, you will have applied 47 Ft/Lb to the fastener, which is 64Nm.

It's your choice, it's not as critical as you might think, or as other would have you believe

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Old 17th November 2019, 19:07   #13
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Originally Posted by Clickernick View Post
use my weighted nylon hammer to apply a good handfull of wallop to the spanner, usually three taps to tighten. Never had any issues with any calipers or getting then off next shout either.
I do the same thing, never had one shear off or work loose so it must be ok
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Old 17th November 2019, 19:36   #14
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I think the problem today is that men, I use the word men on purpose,do not have the same inclination towards mechanically minded learning that us ‘older’ men have had in our past. This is not a criticism of today’s men, it is a fact that the world now appears to turn on ‘technological learning’, rather than mechanics. This is a loss to the younger generation, and also increases their cost’s of ownership of anything that requires mechanical repair and or assembly. It is nice to see some of these younger men, and women, joining this club of ours to maintain their vehicles. Kudos to them, and our gurus who do not mind passing their knowledge on.
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Old 17th November 2019, 19:43   #15
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Originally Posted by Blink View Post
Guide pins - allen key extended with a box spanner. How's that for common sense.
I have never used any extension on the Allen key to put extra pressure on the screw/ bolt whatever, and have never had one come loose in perhaps 300,000 miles of travelling.
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Old 17th November 2019, 20:25   #16
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[B]it is a fact that the world now appears to turn on ‘technological learning’, rather than mechanics.
which is why garages, especially dealerships have trained 'technicians' now, rather than trained 'mechanics'.


---------------------------------------------------


100Nm is also the same rating as the wheel bolts, so like the wheels, they need to be 'leaned' on, rather than 'jumped' on. (or roughly 67 bags of sugar on the end of a 6" allen key )
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Old 18th November 2019, 11:19   #17
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Originally Posted by marinabrian View Post
I suppose you use new bolts each time too Simon?, I know I do, and I have the necessary crowfoot adaptor to allow for the application of the correct torque, and also calculate the allowances for not being perpendicular to the bolt

By the way, and this is for Simon the OP benefit, the torque wrench setting for the caliper carrier to trailing arm bolts is 64Nm, and the caliper carrier to hub refers to the front brake caliper carrier, and is 100Nm.

............
A 13mm crows foot works fine Brian - it gives enough room (before the caliper body goes on).

Yes, I've used new bolts & guide pins, and everything else* is new except the caliper & carrier castings (I had them blasted) - new seals, pistons, springs etc. All the other rear end refurb bolts are new too.

Thanks for the clarification on the 64/100 Nm thing on p06-27. I thought that might be it.

* Forgot, the only other thing that's not new is the pad wear cable. Those two unprotected wires going in to the connector always look dodgy to me - in fact they've both broken on the front cable. The replacement has just the same weak point (2nd pic is an unopened SOM100030).



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Old 18th November 2019, 13:26   #18
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Seems you’ve all got too much time on your hands ha ha!! All this pedantic talk is giving me the runs!! I love working on my brakes and in 40 odd years of brake service if I’ve never had the requirement or inclination to torque the blighters up!!
Oh,, and none of my brakes have ever come undone and fell off in the road..
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Old 18th November 2019, 16:59   #19
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Originally Posted by Clickernick View Post
.... in 40 odd years of brake service if I’ve never had the requirement or inclination to torque the blighters up!!
Oh,, and none of my brakes have ever come undone and fell off in the road..
Well done.
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Old 19th November 2019, 09:47   #20
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Thanks for the clarification on the 64/100 Nm thing on p06-27.
That's o.k. Simon (if you look back at page 1) ....
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Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
Doesn't that description apply to the front brakes?
Regarding this ...
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It's your choice, it's not as critical as you might think, or as other would have you believe.
It's interesting that the very same people who insist with unquenched passion that MG Rover's word must be followed to the letter in respect of a certain KV6 service operation, now take completely the opposite view on this one.
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There of course is no problem whatsoever if you do not possess the necessary equipment to make an informed "guess" ...
If you do not possess the necessary equipment, then buy it! What's the problem with that?

Simon
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