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Old 28th November 2019, 13:28   #31
skinnyL
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Followed all instructions to remedy mirror switch and hey presto they work.

This is a wonderful site for so many tips and help.

Thanks all.
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Old 28th November 2019, 20:07   #32
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Hi Guys,

Having driven to Edinburgh tonight, approx. 50mile round trip checking the temperature etc. I found that with using the IPK? 19-7 the temperature started at 29 and rose to 82 and stayed there at a constant 70 mph @ 2300rpm, started to rise to 86 when in standing traffic at t/lights and then stayed at 84 constantly and I had the econ on as well, or as I thought.

Upon arriving home got out to check if the fan was running with econ on, but it was not. Ran the engine with the econ OFF and the fan runs quickly as at first speed of 2 speed fan with gold resistor and fairly quiet in operation as I know it was quite noisy prior to the engine replacement as you could really hear it which I assumed to be operating at speed 2, but this was fairly quiet as you had to look in by the radiator to know it was running. After turning the ignition off the fan stopped.

I am now in a quandary as to how to proceed in respect of the engine running temperature, is it safe or should it be looked at, I mean the motor runs smoothly and the kick down works better that it ever did, only tried this twice for short periods!

It obviously seems that there is a wiring fault in respect of the econ operation working when switched off and not working when switched on, crossed wires?

Thanks in anticipation for any thoughts and assistance given on these issues. Jim
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Old 29th November 2019, 08:43   #33
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... the temperature ... rose to 82 and stayed there ... started to rise to 86 when in standing traffic ... then stayed at 84 constantly and I had the econ on ... I am now in a quandary as to how to proceed in respect of the engine running temperature, is it safe or should it be looked at ..
Hi Jim,

It's safe, but your engine is running too cool. This will affect oil temperature, fuel consumption and heater performance.

The thermostat's spec. is to begin opening at 88 degrees. That means that coolant temperature will rise to that temperature and not drop below it. Your engine is not behaving like that. The obvious conclusion is that the thermostat is faulty; it is stuck open, but before removing it I would be tempted to check that there is no air lock in the cooling system by draining, bleeding and refilling it according to the MGR procedure. Have you asked your garage if they did this?
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It obviously seems that there is a wiring fault in respect of the econ operation working when switched off and not working when switched on, crossed wires?
I don't understand your train of thought here Jim. From your description I can see nothing wrong with your radiator fan operation in 'Econ' mode. Basically when 'Econ' is selected the air conditioning is off and when 'Auto' is selected air conditioning is on.

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Old 29th November 2019, 09:46   #34
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Fan does not operate in econ mode.

Allow for the ambient temperature when referring monitoring the coolant temp. as Kaiser says above. I doubted him a few years ago, but he was correct (and proved now after 3 winters).

What did make a difference in colder weather, was driving style (not to mention distance). If I drove hard, it would warm up at the same rate as during the summer driving normally. Driving normally, it didn't actually reach opening temp after my 10 mile commute. (Mine is a diesel, but the laws of thermodynamics and meteorology will still apply to petrol engines, it will just have a different variance over 'normal' ). Having the heater on too will lengthen the warm up time also, as will storing over night in a garage or on the street.


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Old 29th November 2019, 10:21   #35
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Fan does not operate in econ mode.
Readers could misunderstand that Alan. We are discussing coolant temperature here, not air conditioning. The radiator fan operates according to coolant temperature in any mode; 'Econ' or 'Auto'.
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Allow for the ambient temperature when referring monitoring the coolant temp. as Kaiser says above.
Ambient temperature does not affect the opening temperature of the thermostat and that's what's at stake here. Your experience with a diesel may be different because they are notorious for having thermostats which open too early (so I'm told). Kaiser will have problems because he's fitted an 82 degree thermostat to his metal housing. That will open too soon in winter temperatures and, coupled with the cold ambient airflow through the radiator, will keep his temperature in the low eighties when it should be in the low nineties.
The thermostat in the KV6 should be an 88 degree type which will ensure a running temperature above that and an efficient heater.

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Old 29th November 2019, 13:23   #36
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Readers could misunderstand that Alan. We are discussing coolant temperature here, not air conditioning. The radiator fan operates according to coolant temperature in any mode; 'Econ' or 'Auto'.



Ambient temperature does not affect the opening temperature of the thermostat and that's what's at stake here. Your experience with a diesel may be different because they are notorious for having thermostats which open too early (so I'm told). Kaiser will have problems because he's fitted an 82 degree thermostat to his metal housing. That will open too soon in winter temperatures and, coupled with the cold ambient airflow through the radiator, will keep his temperature in the low eighties when it should be in the low nineties.

The thermostat in the KV6 should be an 88 degree type which will ensure a running temperature above that and an efficient heater.



Simon
I was discussing coolant temps, but the op mentions driving with it in econ(not to mention checking the fan not operating in econ mode - which you alluded to without clarifying the fan only runs when ac is used) , one can assume it is at a temp of around 22 degrees, which will cause the engine to take longer (petrol and diesel) to heat up. Ambient temp does matter, as the engine will be surrounded by cold air, absorbing heat, not to mention the thermal capacity of the metals of the block. A cold block would take longer to warm up etc. I doubted this, but it is after three winters, a valid point to consider. It affects it by the time it takes to warm up as well as the driving style. All internal combustion engines are.

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Old 29th November 2019, 16:57   #37
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Hi Jim,

It's safe, but your engine is running too cool. This will affect oil temperature, fuel consumption and heater performance.

The thermostat's spec. is to begin opening at 88 degrees. That means that coolant temperature will rise to that temperature and not drop below it. Your engine is not behaving like that. The obvious conclusion is that the thermostat is faulty; it is stuck open, but before removing it I would be tempted to check that there is no air lock in the cooling system by draining, bleeding and refilling it according to the MGR procedure. Have you asked your garage if they did this?

I don't understand your train of thought here Jim. From your description I can see nothing wrong with your radiator fan operation in 'Econ' mode. Basically when 'Econ' is selected the air conditioning is off and when 'Auto' is selected air conditioning is on.

Simon
Hi Simon,

Sorry about my ignorance on the 'econ' operation this appears to work ok.

Yes, the coolant was drained etc according to the MRG recommendations.

In respect of the thermostat, the fuel consumption has definitely increased and again today the temp hovers at 84 deg C 70 MPH @ 2300 RPM. I am going to get the garage to replace the thermostat which I shall obtain from DMRG.
Thanks Jim
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Old 29th November 2019, 17:09   #38
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Just to add a bit more that is a new thermostat fitted to the second-hand engine along with the timing belts, water pump.
Is it a big job to replace the thermostat?
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Old 29th November 2019, 17:17   #39
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Ive read all the forgoing and regarding the temperature displayed in the IPK which is the matter giving the most concern I will ask the question and am happy to be shot down in flames - but can we rely on the accuracy of the figures displayed, ie is 84degrees 84 or is it because a gremlin in fact 88degrees or what ever??? Answers on a small post card please, and no swearing. Chris S.
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Old 29th November 2019, 17:22   #40
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Is it a big job to replace the thermostat?
To do it according to the MGR workshop manual involves removing the plastic manifold chamber and one of the inlet manifolds so yes, it will take some time and care. I'm rather concerned about this because it's rare for a KV6 thermostat to fail in this way. I hope that your second-hand engine hasn't had K-Seal put into it.

Make sure that your garage positions the plastic clips on the straight pipe fully outwards so that they are in close contact with the water pump and new thermostat housings. This will keep the whole assembly rigid and hopefully minimise the risk of future leaks.

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