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Old 29th November 2019, 15:16   #1
thanos.m
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Default 2.5 v6 noisy tappet

Hi everyone,
Recently I noticed my 75 on cold starts has a noisy tappet it doesn't always happen and it usually goes away after a few seconds but I was wondering if there is any treatment for it. The car runs on 5w30 castrol fully synthetic additionally I've noticed some sludge on the oil cap I don't know if this could be related it doesn't use any coolant or anything my rover expert said not to worry about it it's because the car is used on short journeys only
Reagrds,
Thanos
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Old 29th November 2019, 17:29   #2
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How many miles has it done ? The sludge on the cap is indeed probably due to short journeys and cold running . A tappet which shuts up after a few seconds is not a cause for concern , but a change back to the recommended 10W/40 may help there
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Old 29th November 2019, 17:35   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thanos.m View Post
... the car is used on short journeys only.
As Chris says Thanos, that's the clue. In your circumstances this Rover expert's advice is:
  • Use Comma 'Flush Out' flushing oil immediately to remove the sludge which will be very bad for your tappets.
  • Change your oil more frequently, say every 3,000 miles.
  • Use the recommended 10W40 in Coventry's climate.

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Old 29th November 2019, 18:07   #4
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Thanks for your replies
The mileage is unknown since it had new "rebulit" engine a few thousand miles ago before I purchased it. Would any of valvetrain treatments help ? In my p38 range rover 4.6 with 175k miles went really quiet after using one. The oil that's in the car has atm has only about 1.5k miles and was changed in July
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Old 29th November 2019, 21:35   #5
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Also have a couple more questions use semi-synethtic or fs 10w-40 and wouldn't the thicker oil make the sludging up even worse since the car does short journeys?
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Old 29th November 2019, 22:01   #6
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Quote:
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The mileage is unknown since it had new "rebulit" engine a few thousand miles ago before I purchased it.
Ahhh.
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Originally Posted by thanos.m View Post
The oil that's in the car has atm has only about 1.5k miles and was changed in July
That may be so but you have sludge indicating poor past maintenance. This needs addressing.
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... use semi-synethtic or fs 10w-40 ..
It doesn't matter, whichever you prefer.
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... and wouldn't the thicker oil make the sludging up even worse since the car does short journeys?
The sludge has nothing to do with the viscosity of the oil. 10W40 is specified by MGR for ambient temperatures down to minus 20 degrees. That's more than suitable for Coventry.

How short are your short journeys? Does the temperature gauge reach its "normal" nine o'clock position? In the winter, does the heater get hot enough to make the interior comfortable?

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Old 29th November 2019, 22:25   #7
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It is often misunderstood but 0w40, 5w40 or 10w40 all have a very similar viscosity whilst the engine is at operating temperature (the 40 part).

All oils thicken when cold, so you will get less thickening with a 0w40 than a 10w40 oil on start up, for example (the bottom number).

Oil technology has moved on and I would suggest that you key in your registration number into a leading oil manufacturer's website such as
https://lubes.mobil.com/uk-english-l...which-oil.aspx

With a properly maintained engine, I would avoid using a "flushing oil" as this has a viscosity close to tap water.
It would need sacrificial oil changes to get rid of the contamination from it.

These products are only necessary as a last resort for a neglected, poorly maintained engine, which have not had recommended oil changes.
This particularly true on time intervals with low usage.
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Old 29th November 2019, 22:31   #8
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Most of the journeys I do are in the city and only few miles long my commute to my work place 4 times a week that it is it beraly gets up to temp just before I get there but there are occasional longer journeys and i have to noticed that all the sludge gets clears out of the oil cap if it goes on a nice run on the motorway. What about these valve train treatments? I will proceed to do an oil change I'll go for the Mobil 1 fs 0-40 should I change the filter as well or shall I leave it be since its only a few months old ?

Last edited by thanos.m; 29th November 2019 at 22:56..
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Old 30th November 2019, 09:32   #9
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Quote:
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With a properly maintained engine, I would avoid using a "flushing oil" as this has a viscosity close to tap water.
It has a lower viscosity than normal service engine oil yes, but that's a necessary feature of an oil designed to flush. Secondly, even though Thanos' engine might be "properly maintained" according to the manufacturer's schedule, in arduous conditions such as his occasional use of Flush Out contributes to a high standard of maintenance. To say that Comma Flush Out has a viscosity close to tap water is an inaccurate exaggeration.
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It would need sacrificial oil changes to get rid of the contamination from it.
I have used Comma Flush Out on all my cars over several decades with no adverse effects whatsoever. On the contrary, I have found it to be highly beneficial. Over thirty years' ownership of my SD1 and 180,000 miles I have never had to undertake 'short' engine repairs. It's running on the original camshaft and hydraulic tappets. Any traces of flushing oil remaining after a treatment, which will be minor owing to its low viscosity, clearly do not constitute "contamination". I'm afraid that I don't recognise your rather dramatic claim at all.

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Old 30th November 2019, 09:35   #10
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Quote:
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What about these valve train treatments?
I'd say you'd be wasting your time and money. Your engine will benefit from Comma Flush Out as I've already said.
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... should I change the filter as well or shall I leave it be since its only a few months old ?
Renew it.

Simon
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