Start up issues and battery drain

Rick1983 · 31st December 2019, 11:50

Hi

My first post...

I have the 1.8 Club SE model 2001 year (purchased 4 weeks ago). Recently the car will not start without jump starting it. It just clicks and headlights flash when turning key. Once jump started the car runs fine. However the same issue will rise the following day and the car will not start again.

I've checked the battery and the volts are between 13-15 which seem correct. Also the battery is only a couple of years old. I've checked all interior lights are going off (boot, glove box and dome).

Only other issue with the car is the drivers door central locking doesn't open with the key fob. It does lock with the fob. Wondering if there could and link here to the battery drain. Any ideas??

Yorkshire GOC · 31st December 2019, 12:16

Could be your alternator - when i had apparent battery problems it was the alternator - was throwing out AC and running the battery down due to a failing diode - your resting voltage should be 12.4-12.8 v and around 14 v with the engine on.

A simple test of the alternator when you Jump start the car, then remove the jump cables. If the car dies shortly thereafter, then the alternator is the likely culprit. If the car continues to run, then it’s probably the battery at fault.

Also remember if you get flashing lights on ignition don't keep turning her over as it can damage the ECU .

SD1too · 31st December 2019, 12:18

Hello Rick and

to the club.

Before assuming that you have a fault causing battery drain you should charge your battery for at least 24 hours using a mains powered smart charger. Once you've done that, see if the battery retains its charge until you next use the car. If it does not, the battery may be beyond saving if it has been allowed to discharge several times without receiving a full charge afterwards. Contrary to popular belief, driving the car around the block or on a short journey is insufficient.

You say that the voltage is between 13 and 15 volts. Is this the off-load voltage or the alternator charging voltage when the engine is running?

Simon

roverbarmy · 31st December 2019, 12:23

You may have a duff cell on the battery. Each cell should be 2+ volts. If you have 5 at 2.4 volts and one at zero, it will still read 12 volts. Most garages and battery retailers will give you a free battery test. Also remove battery terminals and rub with wire brush or emery to "clean up" the connections.

trikey · 31st December 2019, 18:35

I agree with the above, fit a known good battery and see if the symptoms are cured (I bet they will be)

COLVERT · 1st January 2020, 08:36

Hi there Rick.

Could be several things wrong.

To eliminate the battery.--Remove the negative lead and charge the battery overnight.
Disconnect the charger and leave the battery for at least an hour if possible before checking the voltage at the terminals.

The reading should be between 12.5 and 13 volts. If OK then clean first the positive battery terminal and then the negative terminal. Reconnect both leads, positive FIRST then negative LAST.

Try starting the engine. The voltage on tickover at the terminals should now be 14 to 14.5 volts. If so this proves that the alternator is OK.

Come back and tell us how you got on.

COLVERT · 4th January 2020, 22:19

Hey, Rick. What has been happening ??

COLVERT · 7th January 2020, 14:48

I really do hate these time wasters who ask a question but never come back to read the answers that other folk have kindly posted.

vacuman · 7th January 2020, 15:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by COLVERT

I really do hate these time wasters who ask a question but never come back to read the answers that other folk have kindly posted.

Ditto - see it all the time on Facebook. They buy a car with problems, pick everyone's brains and never hear from them again. Even a 'thank you, all sorted' would be nice.

Rick1983 · 8th January 2020, 18:16

Hi All.

Thanks for the replies. Apologies for the late response but been away on holiday for a few days. First day back to work today.. So I charged the battery the for 2 hours and let it idle for 5 minutes after, the car didn't cut off. I then drove 40 miles to a friend's and all fine. The following day I had to jump start the car again as it wouldn't start. I then swapped the battery for a spare one. Driven it 2 days now and has started each time, however has taken a few seconds on a couple of occasions in the morning. Will see how I get on and update. I have however noticed one thing from the CD changer, when driving I can here it moving about every couple of minutes when off, this also happens after I've parked up and turned the ignition off.. If this was doing this all night whilst parked up it would drain the battery. Anyone else experienced this?

31st December 2019, 11:50	#1
Rick1983 Newbie Rover 75 Join Date: Dec 2019 Location: Wolves Posts: 2 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Start up issues and battery drain Hi My first post... I have the 1.8 Club SE model 2001 year (purchased 4 weeks ago). Recently the car will not start without jump starting it. It just clicks and headlights flash when turning key. Once jump started the car runs fine. However the same issue will rise the following day and the car will not start again. I've checked the battery and the volts are between 13-15 which seem correct. Also the battery is only a couple of years old. I've checked all interior lights are going off (boot, glove box and dome). Only other issue with the car is the drivers door central locking doesn't open with the key fob. It does lock with the fob. Wondering if there could and link here to the battery drain. Any ideas??

31st December 2019, 12:16	#2
Yorkshire GOC I really should get out more....... Rover 75 connoisseur se v6 auto Join Date: May 2014 Location: Hull Posts: 2,063 Thanks: 1,842 Thanked 623 Times in 469 Posts	Could be your alternator - when i had apparent battery problems it was the alternator - was throwing out AC and running the battery down due to a failing diode - your resting voltage should be 12.4-12.8 v and around 14 v with the engine on. A simple test of the alternator when you Jump start the car, then remove the jump cables. If the car dies shortly thereafter, then the alternator is the likely culprit. If the car continues to run, then it’s probably the battery at fault. Also remember if you get flashing lights on ignition don't keep turning her over as it can damage the ECU . __________________ She came off the Longbridge Line on 20-05-2003 The Silver Machine was the 13th of 160 Rover 75's to come off the production line that day and is the 100th of 527 Starlight Silver Rover 75 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE Auto saloons listed in the build records produced world wide.

31st December 2019, 12:18	#3
SD1too Doesn't do things by halves Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Former Middlesex Posts: 20,342 Thanks: 1,587 Thanked 3,749 Times in 3,181 Posts	Hello Rick and to the club. Before assuming that you have a fault causing battery drain you should charge your battery for at least 24 hours using a mains powered smart charger. Once you've done that, see if the battery retains its charge until you next use the car. If it does not, the battery may be beyond saving if it has been allowed to discharge several times without receiving a full charge afterwards. Contrary to popular belief, driving the car around the block or on a short journey is insufficient. You say that the voltage is between 13 and 15 volts. Is this the off-load voltage or the alternator charging voltage when the engine is running? Simon __________________ "Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce.

31st December 2019, 12:23	#4
roverbarmy This is my second home Roverless + 1.7D Sportage Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: East Norfolk Posts: 7,050 Thanks: 729 Thanked 2,021 Times in 1,449 Posts	You may have a duff cell on the battery. Each cell should be 2+ volts. If you have 5 at 2.4 volts and one at zero, it will still read 12 volts. Most garages and battery retailers will give you a free battery test. Also remove battery terminals and rub with wire brush or emery to "clean up" the connections. __________________ Oil in my veins!

31st December 2019, 18:35	#5
trikey Premium Trader Rover 75 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Devon Posts: 33,762 Thanks: 8,837 Thanked 14,831 Times in 8,030 Posts	I agree with the above, fit a known good battery and see if the symptoms are cured (I bet they will be) __________________ Lest we forget..

1st January 2020, 08:36	#6
COLVERT This is my second home R75 Saloon. Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: France/or Devon. Posts: 14,003 Thanks: 3,851 Thanked 2,167 Times in 1,816 Posts	Hi there Rick. Could be several things wrong. To eliminate the battery.--Remove the negative lead and charge the battery overnight. Disconnect the charger and leave the battery for at least an hour if possible before checking the voltage at the terminals. The reading should be between 12.5 and 13 volts. If OK then clean first the positive battery terminal and then the negative terminal. Reconnect both leads, positive FIRST then negative LAST. Try starting the engine. The voltage on tickover at the terminals should now be 14 to 14.5 volts. If so this proves that the alternator is OK. Come back and tell us how you got on.

4th January 2020, 22:19	#7
COLVERT This is my second home R75 Saloon. Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: France/or Devon. Posts: 14,003 Thanks: 3,851 Thanked 2,167 Times in 1,816 Posts	Hey, Rick. What has been happening ??

7th January 2020, 14:48	#8
COLVERT This is my second home R75 Saloon. Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: France/or Devon. Posts: 14,003 Thanks: 3,851 Thanked 2,167 Times in 1,816 Posts	I really do hate these time wasters who ask a question but never come back to read the answers that other folk have kindly posted.

8th January 2020, 18:16	#10
Rick1983 Newbie Rover 75 Join Date: Dec 2019 Location: Wolves Posts: 2 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Hi All. Thanks for the replies. Apologies for the late response but been away on holiday for a few days. First day back to work today.. So I charged the battery the for 2 hours and let it idle for 5 minutes after, the car didn't cut off. I then drove 40 miles to a friend's and all fine. The following day I had to jump start the car again as it wouldn't start. I then swapped the battery for a spare one. Driven it 2 days now and has started each time, however has taken a few seconds on a couple of occasions in the morning. Will see how I get on and update. I have however noticed one thing from the CD changer, when driving I can here it moving about every couple of minutes when off, this also happens after I've parked up and turned the ignition off.. If this was doing this all night whilst parked up it would drain the battery. Anyone else experienced this?

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