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4th January 2020, 15:41 | #1 |
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Duff tensioner (75 Diesel)
I have been trying to fix the alternator and the noise from the belt area. (diesel)
I have fitted a new alternator, crank pulley, idler pulley and belt. Still have large amount of flutter between the crank and the alternator. With a brand new alternator only giving between 13.2-6 volts, sometimes dropping as low as 12.9v. The tensioner pulley is bouncing when the engine is running but I don't how much movement there should be? How do you actually change the tensioner, the Heynes manual is useless as normal and just tells me to take it off. With no indication as to how you're suppose to do this. Last edited by zaph; 4th January 2020 at 15:50.. |
4th January 2020, 20:49 | #2 |
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OK I have just compared it to a good 75 Diesel and the movement of my belt between the alternator and the crank pulley is excessive.
I have also had another look at the Heynes manual and realised that the L-shaped bracket is not the tensioner, that is buried in the engine and looks a nightmare to replace. They are talking about removing the cylinder head. Frankly if it involves all that the car might be beyond economic repair. However I am beginning to suspect the crank pulley due to where the flutter is. It is a new unit but I wonder if it is out of spec? |
5th January 2020, 09:20 | #3 |
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The tensioner isn't that much of a job to replace - only two bolts but you need to unbolt the engine mount and drop the engine down to remove the arm.
Was the replacement crank pulley a genuine Corteco? |
5th January 2020, 11:20 | #4 |
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I found that the 'flutter, on my belt was due to a failing crank pulley having changed the tensioner first to no avail, albeit my pulley was well used and not new. as far as the tensioner is concerned, as Mike has posted it is not too bad a job the biggest problem I had was trying to get the small nut and washer on the end of the L shaped bracket. Having fingers like bananas doesn't help.
Have you tried looking at the crank pulley with the engine running ( move wing liner away) put a spot of paint on the face of the pulley flange and you will see if there is any uneven running concentrically (if that's the right terminology). On mine there was already a mark of the pulley and you could see the pulley 'bouncing'. Good luck
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5th January 2020, 17:08 | #5 | |
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The crank pulley is the discount rover spares OEM one. |
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5th January 2020, 17:13 | #6 | |
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The access is terrible and I have run a couple of cars up to 200K miles, without having the auxiliary belts fail. Of course those cars had good old solid crank pulleys and bullet proof alternators. To be fair I had to change the cam belts but even that was easier on past cars that working on this belt this close to the wing. |
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5th January 2020, 21:45 | #7 |
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In my case the new tensioner improved the belt bounce only slightly so like you unsure what the problem was I motored on. The pulley finally failed 15000 miles later.
Again on mine, when the revs were raised above idle the belt 'bounce' smoothed out which is why I decided to risk leaving it. Just a note on strength of the aux drive belt I had an alternator fail, the pulley bearings broke up and seized the shaft solid and the engine stalled when it was doing about 1500rpm. I couldn't believe that it hadn't snapped the belt or slipped.
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5th January 2020, 22:15 | #8 | |
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6th January 2020, 05:42 | #9 | |
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6th January 2020, 08:30 | #10 |
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True but the compliance of the rubber may not be correct, and so the pulley may not be dampening out the drive from the crankshaft.
Personally I would only fit a genuine Corteco Pulley. Does the engine idle sound nice and even? maybe an injector fault could also cause a bit of belt flutter? |
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