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10th January 2020, 18:53 | #31 |
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Here we are John. This is the old back box bracket and rubbers - they're the original factory fitted items.
Here's the same layout as my first two pics in 36. Left to right: the same red rubber / one of the factory black rubbers / the same cheapo fleabay rubber. The factory rubber in the centre above is the same design as the new WCS100212 I bought from Rimmers in December. It even has the two indentations made by the injection mould. These are the measurements: Original factory black rubber from 2001/2002 Length - 69.16mm / Depth - 30.03mm / Width - 47.28mm New 2019 black rubber WCS100212 from Rimmers Length - 67.01mm / Depth - 30.19mm / Width - 49.26mm The two old factory rubbers are stamped 17 and 20. The new pair are stamped 15 and 16. The exhaust on my car has never been changed before so there's no doubt about it - the factory rubbers are just as big & chunky as the new WCS100212s from Rimmers (allowing for stretching etc). Mine's a V6 saloon though - so maybe other variants had different factory rubbers. NB. Above 3 pics have all been taken tonight - the 2 pics below are from post 36 and were taken on 22/12/19 (I've repeated them here just to save shuffling back a page ). Damn! Forgot to put the 12" rule in the new pics. |
10th January 2020, 19:59 | #32 |
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Would a g clamp or vise grips squeeze them out. One face of the clamp on the prong with the other on the opposite on the rubber, then tighten?
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11th January 2020, 11:12 | #33 | |
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Quote:
In fact you can't get anywhere near it because at the other end of the car's prong the steel rod bends 180 degrees back on itself forming a U bend, which is exactly in the way for a vice or clamp. For putting rubbers on with a clamp or vice: anything you put on this U bend just flies off as soon as you start winding in the clamp/vice jaws. If they'd put two 90 degree turns instead of the U bend, then it would work - but they didn't. The only way I can see round it is to fabricate some new steel prongs with two 90 degree turns and weld them to the car in place of the old ones. The best way to sort out the removal problem is modify the prongs so the arrowheads unscrew, leaving just a straight rod sticking through the rubbers. The rubbers would then just slide off. I've got the Neilsen CT2072 exhaust hanger removal pliers too. This tool is utterly useless against MGR's black beast rubbers - they just laugh in its face and taunt it. The problem is it flies off the tip of the arrowhead long before any real pressure can be applied. You can't apply any real pressure anyway because the handles are too far apart and they bend first. Last edited by Blink; 11th January 2020 at 11:53.. |
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11th January 2020, 12:06 | #34 | |
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11th January 2020, 12:12 | #35 |
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Hi Simon.
Put some red rubber grease on the prongs and inside the rubber if you can, I know you have silicone grease on at the moment then try using one of these below if you have one if not purchase one, it may work as the gap on the forks will fit round the prong and hold onto the rubber, while the bar should push out the prong ? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ball-Join...4383.l4275.c10 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Professio....c100005.m1851
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11th January 2020, 12:16 | #36 |
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These are a pain to get off, I use a pair of water pump pliers one end on the metal prong and the other to the back of the rubber hanger and gently work the rubber over the prong, not forgetting to first apply some lubricant.
Last edited by Eddy600; 11th January 2020 at 22:04.. |
11th January 2020, 13:40 | #37 |
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I just tried one last idea before giving up.
I used the 2nd factory rubber on the old factory bracket as a test run - mainly because it's off the car and is easy to work on. I hammered one of the Neilsen blades down in between the arrowhead and the black rubber as far as it would go. On the opposite face, I hammered the other Neilsen blade in between the metal rod and the rubber. Then I pressed down on both Neilsens as hard as possible and levered them up & down one at a time. After 10 minutes jiggling about like this the rubber hole opened just enough to get it started over the back of the arrowhead. Another 10 minutes with the levers and it was off. The problem with this is there's not enough room to do it situ. It was hard enough off the car and needed a lot of elbow room - so I'm not even going to try it on the real thing. |
11th January 2020, 13:53 | #38 | |
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I just did a dry run with it (indoors - using the old factory rubber back on the old factory bracket) and it worked first time in two or three minutes. Mind you, the hole in the old factory rubber had been somewhat enlarged by the 'double lever method' described in post 49 - a brand new rubber with brand new holes might not be so easy. I will give it a try though and report back. It could be a while 'cos I am now going to drink several mugs of tea. |
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11th January 2020, 16:47 | #39 | |
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11th January 2020, 17:52 | #40 |
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This splitter did the trick after I wedged it in place with a chunk of wood to stop the ball bearing scooting off the prong every time I tightened the bolt.
The chunky bolt enlarges the hole in the rubbers slightly but they should be ok. I've only unhitched the Bosal prongs for the moment - I decided to leave the rubbers on the car's prongs because I won't be able to reach them once the Klarius box is in position (it's much wider than the Bosal back box). Anyway, a top tip from Arctic! |
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