Rusty rear Suspension Arm

Rovernut · 13th October 2016, 15:46

I've been advised that the rear suspension arm is very rusty and needs replacing before it corrodes through.
I've been quoted £150 labour plus about £100 for parts. Apparently they are difficult to remove 'cause they seize up around the bush.

Does this sound reasonable for one side?

Thanks
Chris

klarzy · 13th October 2016, 16:50

I think they can be a PITA on a captive nut close to the pivot point...

Animesis · 13th October 2016, 17:04

Had to change one of mine last month, recommend removing the rear subframe, its not too difficult. Then if the captive nuts breaks free as it often does - and mine did - you can get at it easily. If memory serves me correctly, take off calipers, take off exhaust, undo the hub to arm bolts, lower subframe and manauvre the calipers through the arms. Theres how tos on here.
Then its the captive nut and bolt. When mine broke free I was debating between spot welding it on but in the end as it still had some resistance to spinning I hammered on a pipe wrench to hold it in place.

Did mine in two days over a friday evening and saturday, as I cleaned the rust off the subframe and painted it with stonechip paint and waxoil paint and had to wait for that to dry.

stocktake · 13th October 2016, 18:02

I would try here

This garage recently charged £50 per side

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...4&postcount=24

FL04CCK · 13th October 2016, 22:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by Animesis

Had to change one of mine last month, recommend removing the rear subframe, its not too difficult. Then if the captive nuts breaks free as it often does - and mine did - you can get at it easily. If memory serves me correctly, take off calipers, take off exhaust, undo the hub to arm bolts, lower subframe and manauvre the calipers through the arms. Theres how tos on here.
Then its the captive nut and bolt. When mine broke free I was debating between spot welding it on but in the end as it still had some resistance to spinning I hammered on a pipe wrench to hold it in place.

Did mine in two days over a friday evening and saturday, as I cleaned the rust off the subframe and painted it with stonechip paint and waxoil paint and had to wait for that to dry.

..what he said! ...Ive just done mine at the weekend and this is exactly how I did it.
.(:altho take off the exhaust all the way and check its ok, I didnt and its just cost me an mot!)

13th October 2016, 15:46	#1
Rovernut Loves to post R75 Conn Tourer, R8 Tourer, R8 Cabby Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Manchester Posts: 401 Thanks: 87 Thanked 11 Times in 7 Posts	Rusty rear Suspension Arm I've been advised that the rear suspension arm is very rusty and needs replacing before it corrodes through. I've been quoted £150 labour plus about £100 for parts. Apparently they are difficult to remove 'cause they seize up around the bush. Does this sound reasonable for one side? Thanks Chris __________________ Wonderful Wedgwood Turbo Towcar

13th October 2016, 16:50	#2
klarzy This is my second home none but not gone Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: March, Cambs Posts: 16,437 Thanks: 894 Thanked 4,247 Times in 3,025 Posts	I think they can be a PITA on a captive nut close to the pivot point... __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]….All praise Bananaswan….

13th October 2016, 17:04	#3
Animesis Loves to post Rover 75 saloon 2.0l Diesel Connoisseur Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Wokingham Posts: 259 Thanks: 136 Thanked 21 Times in 15 Posts	Had to change one of mine last month, recommend removing the rear subframe, its not too difficult. Then if the captive nuts breaks free as it often does - and mine did - you can get at it easily. If memory serves me correctly, take off calipers, take off exhaust, undo the hub to arm bolts, lower subframe and manauvre the calipers through the arms. Theres how tos on here. Then its the captive nut and bolt. When mine broke free I was debating between spot welding it on but in the end as it still had some resistance to spinning I hammered on a pipe wrench to hold it in place. Did mine in two days over a friday evening and saturday, as I cleaned the rust off the subframe and painted it with stonechip paint and waxoil paint and had to wait for that to dry. __________________ Gearbox change, clutch, subframe refurbish, handbrake mod, drumbrake repair, rear coils, plate PCB repair, sunroof drains refitted, trim leak fix, cruise control fix, cleared EGR/inlet, new strut bearings, USB sockets in rear ashtray, new front brake pipes/hoses, repaired undertray, new o/s rear upper arm, refurbished rear suspension&subframe, fixed back light leak, new exhaust, fitted HID xenons, FBH fix, new thermostat, armrest LEDs, wood dash, new hydromount, natnav, tyres, numberplates

13th October 2016, 18:02	#4
stocktake Vis Whiz Rover 75 2.5 auto Saloon Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: LEEDS Posts: 20,587 Thanks: 2,057 Thanked 3,056 Times in 1,621 Posts	I would try here This garage recently charged £50 per side http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...4&postcount=24 __________________ Dave... Lost a few stones and a Gall Bladder and part of a bile duct and all of my dignity in the suppository incident