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22nd August 2020, 12:03 | #1 |
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Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Dec 2019
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Deadlocking
Still trying to resolve the "lock-out" and intend to give it plenty of time this weekend. (02 Tourer, flat battery, central locking flashes but doesn't unlock with external power supply to the starter, key just turns in barrel). As a fall back a white knight owner has offered me a replacement rear quarterlight BUT my question is, with the car locked on the fob will it open if I get through a window to pull a handle? I know the manual says don't deadlock it with people inside as they won't get out.
Originally I hoped to get a door open, pull the bonnet release and change / charge the battery but in trying to pull the bonnet release from outside (I've seen the secret method) I've dislodged the splitter box or whatever it's called on the inner wing. As you see, various issues, get into car, get into bonnet to change battery, but first thing first, will I gain anything by breaking a window? Or will the deadlocking still prevent me getting a door open? Any thoughts gratefully received. |
22nd August 2020, 12:11 | #2 |
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If it is deadlocked, then no the door won't open from the inside.
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22nd August 2020, 12:12 | #3 |
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If it is deadlocked then breaking windows will not help as all the internal handles are disabled.
Sure I read somewhere on here to connect power to one of the starter motor terminals from under the car. Sure someone will be along soon to offer real advice. |
22nd August 2020, 12:14 | #4 |
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Don't put power to the starter but put it to the alternator, positive to main lead and negative to anywhere on the engine you can clamp to .
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22nd August 2020, 12:21 | #5 |
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Thanks chaps, I thought (feared) as much.
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22nd August 2020, 12:29 | #6 |
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Simon, others had previously suggested connecting a battery to the starter + an earth on the engine, which I had tried. The lights flash (as they do in normal operation of the remote) but the doors stayed locked. Is clamping onto the alternator likely to be any different?
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22nd August 2020, 12:30 | #7 |
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...... and if you do have to resort to breaking the glass, tape as much of the window as possible, hopefully help you reduce the spread when it shatters.
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23rd August 2020, 10:30 | #8 |
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Remove Drivers side wheel arch liner and this will give you access to the bonnet opening cables
Edit: I see you have started this and dislodged the splitter box, this is good, locate the twin cables that go from the spitter box to the bonnet catches and pull them both at same time, pop.
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Dave... Lost a few stones and a Gall Bladder and part of a bile duct and all of my dignity in the suppository incident Last edited by stocktake; 23rd August 2020 at 10:33.. |
23rd August 2020, 11:22 | #9 | |
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Quote:
Not Rover 75s it can't. The breakdown chap crawled underneath and tried the power to the starter - a little more "success" than me in that he got the alarm to go off while his power pack was connected. The key fob flashed the indicators, as they normally do when operated, and there was a feint click, that sounded a like a solenoid trying to do its' thing to my untrained ears, but none of the 5 doors opened. (This was the same as when I tried previously) and his lock-out kit (an airbag to open the doorframe a bit and a bendy wire to pull the door handle) did nothing but pull the door handle. Clearly the deadlocking is deadlocked. I'm going to have another go at the bonnet today but, to be honest, I'm not sure now whether actually getting a fresh battery on is going to do anything other than set the alarm off........... Last edited by Scimdaz; 23rd August 2020 at 11:47.. |
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23rd August 2020, 15:41 | #10 |
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UPDATE: Got the bonnet up (thanks chaps). My multimeter shows just under a volt on the battery so I think that counts as flat (probably terminally flat). Connecting up my booster pack set off the alarm, which my key fob turned off - but it still hasn't opened the doors ...... hmmm????? I can only think that it is the fuse in the footwell, for no better reason than the fob seems to do everything except release the locks? Any thought? I seem to remember an earlier reply (when I first asked) mentioning that it might be possible to by-pass the in-car fuse but with no details. Does that ring a bell, raise any possibilities?
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