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Old 29th May 2022, 17:46   #11
xsport
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thankyou martin for your reply. it seems that my clamp probably would have done the job. its certainly a good idea . did you have room for the rears as well as the fronts to get the clamp on ? although the rears have more access its still better to use your fitting method if at all possible. still im all up and running now running very sweet. i had the added burden of removing the LPG setup as well. which makes the job more long winded. thanks for the tip . ..
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Old 1st June 2022, 15:56   #12
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Hi Stefan,

Yes you can use the F-clamp for both the front and rear caps. It is much easier if the inlet manifold has been removed, I can remove it in about 10 minutes and replace it in about 15 minutes. It would have been removed anyway if you are doing a cam belt and thermostat change. By using this tool properly you can guarantee that the caps are fitted square and in far enough so that they don't leak, and saves a lot of time.

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Old 1st June 2022, 19:59   #13
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nice to know . its something i will try on the next belt job. nice one. ..
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Old 5th June 2022, 04:32   #14
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I gave up on new cam cap seals and just reuse the old ones with a smear of blue Hylomar sealant. I've done this on several engines without a problem.
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Old 5th June 2022, 13:13   #15
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just wondered if you have ever tried the camshaft oil seal method. for my part i have not, but wondered if they are easier to install than the caps and also if they leak at all ?
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Old 6th June 2022, 07:07   #16
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I've seen the results of this Stefan. The end of the camshaft remains exposed and goes rusty. It's not a method I would ever use.

Simon
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Old 6th June 2022, 08:36   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xsport View Post
just wondered if you have ever tried the camshaft oil seal method. for my part i have not, but wondered if they are easier to install than the caps and also if they leak at all ?
I have installed seals in mine and this is now the most popular method around here due to the extremely low temperatures we sometimes get during the winter months. One winter we had temperatures below minus 20c and I heard of 3 KV6 owners who experienced flying camcaps - 2 were lucky, it was the back cap but the third suffered terminal oil contamination when the front cap flew. I think it was Lovel who pioneered this method as it presents a smaller surface area to the expansion gases (although I believe he still recommends caps). Our local dealer mechanic got so fed-up with these caps that he devised a metal retaining bracket.

And yes, I think the seals are easier to install: wet the seals with evaporating fluid, ease them into position by hand, remove the centre of an old cap and use the old cap to screw the seals into place with perfect precision.

A few drops of paint should solve the potential rust problem.

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Old 6th June 2022, 09:47   #18
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Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
I've seen the results of this Stefan. The end of the camshaft remains exposed and goes rusty. It's not a method I would ever use.

Simon
The method used on my MGZT 190 back in 2012 by Lates, as he had a batch of bad end caps, have to say the car had end caps when it was given to him, i had several leaks after having the belts done but that's another story which now i do not need to go into as i no longer have the car.

1
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Old 14th June 2022, 21:07   #19
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I had the oil seals on my 2.5V6 camshafts fitted by Lates almost two years ago. No oil leaks so far. The end of the camshaft is slightly rusty, but not much.
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