Go Back   The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums > The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums > Technical Help Forum
Register FAQ Image Gallery Members List Calendar Mark Forums Read
Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 1st July 2022, 21:59   #11
vitesse
I really should get out more.......
 
Rover 75 Saloon

Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Gävle
Posts: 2,528
Thanks: 395
Thanked 823 Times in 652 Posts
Default

Can you move the cog wheel manually ie large flat bladed screwdriver in the slots (carefully)? If not it has jammed and needs replacing.


Regards
vitesse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 3rd July 2022, 17:28   #12
Matt G
Regular poster
 
MG ZT 190+ (Development car), mg zt 190SE (Twilight), MG ZS 180

Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Waltham st lawrence
Posts: 42
Thanks: 8
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Default

Hi Vitesse.

Thanks for the response and apologies for slow reply, been working all weekend , no it doesn’t move, but I haven’t wanted to force it too much. So on that basis, it’s a high chance it’s the actuator that’s failed, I was expecting more towards 12v when I tested with the old voltmeter.

I’ll try the actuator first

Thanks in advance

Matt
Matt G is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 4th July 2022, 17:29   #13
SD1too
Doesn't do things by halves
 
SD1too's Avatar
 
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model.

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Former Middlesex
Posts: 20,338
Thanks: 1,587
Thanked 3,749 Times in 3,181 Posts
Default KV6 only

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt G View Post
I have picked up exactly the same the issue on my ZT, I am reading 10.6v at the connector ...
Hello Matt,

This 3 year old thread is interesting and mention of traction control and cruise control components prompted me to read all about it in RAVE.

Firstly just to clarify that these two systems don't share any control equipment.
  • The cruise control uses an ECU controlled vacuum pump and a pneumatic actuator which operate on the primary throttle butterfly attached to the accelerator pedal.
  • The traction control uses the ABS modulator and the secondary throttle actuator (referred to above, with gear teeth and a cable) which is electrically driven by the traction control ECU.
The voltage used for the traction control actuator is not specified so I don't think you should assume that 10.6v necessarily represents a fault or that it would be expected to move when the engine is started. I doubt very much that this would be the case as it would close the secondary throttle which would oppose the action of the idle air control valve.

There's a chart to help with basic diagnosis:
  • Does your Traction Control warning remain illuminated after the 4 seconds bulb check when the ignition is switched on?
  • Has the Traction Control button accidentally been pressed to turn the system off?
  • Do you have a continuous brake and/or ABS warning light illuminated as well?

Simon
__________________
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble."
Sir Henry Royce.
SD1too is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 4th July 2022, 18:56   #14
stocktake
Vis Whiz
 
stocktake's Avatar
 
Rover 75 2.5 auto Saloon

Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: LEEDS
Posts: 20,586
Thanks: 2,057
Thanked 3,056 Times in 1,621 Posts
Default

From first hand experience, my traction control unit on my KV6 auto (which is identical to the unit that is used on the cruise control on the early BMW E39) performs a self test when ign is turned on.

This involves the traction control unit completely closing the second butterfly in the throttle assy and then returning to its rest open position
, if it cannot complete this action ( due to among other things broken or jammed teeth on the drive) then the traction control sign is displayed on the IPK
__________________
Dave...



Lost a few stones and a Gall Bladder and part of a bile duct and all of my dignity in the suppository incident

Last edited by stocktake; 4th July 2022 at 19:10..
stocktake is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 5th July 2022, 19:01   #15
Matt G
Regular poster
 
MG ZT 190+ (Development car), mg zt 190SE (Twilight), MG ZS 180

Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Waltham st lawrence
Posts: 42
Thanks: 8
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Default

Thanks both for the reply.

Absolutely agreed, the earlier post related to cruise control in places, but my issue is very much traction control only.

The fault light comes in during the 4 sec testing stage, am I right to think it should close and open during this test?

The fault light stays on permanently there after, have tried the on/off button too

I do not have any other warning lights for abs, etc, so I was assuming it not to be the pump or wheel sensor on that basis.

As suggested by vitesse I’ve tried a screwdriver in the cog and it does not budge. I’ve managed to locate a cheap enough E39 actuator, so will update the page once it arrives, as this has been quite an informative post.

Thanks in advance

Matt
Matt G is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 5th July 2022, 19:15   #16
stocktake
Vis Whiz
 
stocktake's Avatar
 
Rover 75 2.5 auto Saloon

Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: LEEDS
Posts: 20,586
Thanks: 2,057
Thanked 3,056 Times in 1,621 Posts
Default

It's the early E39 actuator and then it may have a different electrical plug but usually they are the same, the later ones are totally different, you can tell by looking at them the difference is so obvious, also the cable will need swapping (easy peasy). And yes the cog should move during self test ( it is quite a heavy old cog to move to he honest dont be shy)
__________________
Dave...



Lost a few stones and a Gall Bladder and part of a bile duct and all of my dignity in the suppository incident
stocktake is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 5th July 2022, 19:42   #17
vitesse
I really should get out more.......
 
Rover 75 Saloon

Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Gävle
Posts: 2,528
Thanks: 395
Thanked 823 Times in 652 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by stocktake View Post
It's the early E39 actuator and then it may the later ones are totally different)
I've come across the same actuator but with a different shaped connector but even the other shaped connector ones can be used. While the plastic connector is different the pins are in the same place and with a bit of butchery, (or the other BMW connector spliced in) can be put into service - I've got one on my 75.

Keep well

ps Poor photo but believe this may be the kind with the other connector: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173969930...4AAOSwxGBdMcIn

Last edited by vitesse; 5th July 2022 at 20:20.. Reason: Link
vitesse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 8th July 2022, 13:10   #18
SD1too
Doesn't do things by halves
 
SD1too's Avatar
 
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model.

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Former Middlesex
Posts: 20,338
Thanks: 1,587
Thanked 3,749 Times in 3,181 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt G View Post
The fault light comes in during the 4 sec testing stage, am I right to think it should close and open during this test?
Hello Matt,

I've just tried Stocktake's test on my KV6 auto (of the same age as his). With my right hand resting on the traction control actuator and my left switching on the ignition, I can feel and hear the two distinctive operations which Dave explains as the secondary throttle butterfly closing and opening again.

So yes, yours should do this and the traction control warning should not appear in the message centre.

I hope this helps.

Simon
__________________
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble."
Sir Henry Royce.
SD1too is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 22:13.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright © 2006-2023, The Rover 75 & MG ZT Owners Club Ltd