MG ZT 190 Engine + ECU

[Shaker]

I know this is possibly a difficult ask as they are getting fewer & fewer, but does anyone have a good (ideally low mileage) 190 KV6 engine & ECU.

The engine in my Connie I believe has got valve seal issues and I've been told scores on 2 of the 6 boress. It smokes badly on startup after being left for a few days i.e. weekend but then the smoke disappears after a mile or so but it uses as much oil as petrol. So rather than rebuild at many £k I thought I'd also pep it up a bit with the 190 engine.

Thanks Everyone.

[Jamiewelch]

You don't need an ECU, just a ZCS code and new tune download with a T4 will do it. If you change the ECU, you will also need the EWS and transponders, and then you'll never be able to do dealer options on a T4 because of a vin mismatch.

[Shaker]

Originally Posted by Jamiewelch

You don't need an ECU, just a ZCS code and new tune download with a T4 will do it. If you change the ECU, you will also need the EWS and transponders, and then you'll never be able to do dealer options on a T4 because of a vin mismatch.

Thanks Jamie, it was suggested by the guys I was talking to about doing the engine swap ,(if I ever find an engine) as they don't have a T4.

[Shaker]

Ok Maybe I was setting my sight too high with a low mileage 190 engine.

Does anyone have a good low mileage 2.5 KV6 from a 75, ZT or ZS180, I want to save my connie not scrap or break it.

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by Shaker

So rather than rebuild at many £k ...

Hi Steve,

Do bear in mind that fitting a replacement engine won't exactly be cheap. It involves a lot of labour and it's risky as you won't know what you've got until you've spent the money and the job's done.

I would reconsider repairing the engine you know. Years ago I renewed valve stem oil seals on my Mini 1275 GT. In fact, I still have the grinding paste in the garage. On the Rover, removing the timing belts is reckoned to cost about £800, sometimes cheaper, and it's then straightforward to lift the heads and send them to a specialist for the valve work (you could obtain a telephone quote for that).

Regarding the reported scored bores, how was this determined?

By the way, many 2.5 KV6s fitted to MGs are different from your Rover engine so you'd be back to the ECM reprogramming which Jamie mentioned.

Simon

[Arctic]

Hi Steve.
You have a PM hopefully it may help.

[Shaker]

Hi Simon,
Thanks for your reply.

Do bear in mind that fitting a replacement engine won't exactly be cheap. It involves a lot of labour and it's risky as you won't know what you've got until you've spent the money and the job's done.

This is my dilemma I rescued the car from Copart i think in 2018, with no history obviously. I had the minor damage fixed, then realized that with it being on an 07 plate its stupid VED, this year I paid £615.The car is too good to break or scrap so I need the cheapest way of stopping it smoking and using oil.

Regarding the reported scored bores, how was this determined?

I took the car to Chris @ Retro Sports Cars, he said he used a Borescope to look at the bores and that bores 2 & 4 were scored .He advised it needed a rebuild approx. £2.5k + vat. or get a good used one. Is the car worth spending that on it when I have others - that's my dilemma.

By the way, many 2.5 KV6s fitted to MGs are different from your Rover engine so you'd be back to the ECM reprogramming which Jamie mentioned.

Chris advised I could even use one from a freelander 1 as they are the same other than the sump.



Thanks Arctic

You have a PM hopefully it may help.

It resulted in a dead end unfortunately.


Thanks for your replies everyone
Steve

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by Shaker

... I need the cheapest way of stopping it smoking and using oil.

The best way of doing that Steve is to take overall control yourself. That's what I did when I restored my SD1 from the steering wheel backwards.
The next principle is "if it ain't broke don't fix it". The more that is dismantled, the more you'll find that "needs replacing" so a comprehensive "rebuild" by a professional outfit like Retro Sports Cars costing £££ is not for you.
Thirdly, approach the repair in a piecemeal fashion. In other words, do one thing at a time. This avoids spending money unnecessarily with the bonus that it's clear what the cause was.

So, I'd suggest that you begin with the valve stem oil seals since the symptoms match this exactly. Choose someone with the KV6 timing tools to remove the heads and send them yourself to a previously researched engine specialist for the valve work. Put it all back together and go for a test drive. You will then find out whether or not the two scored bores are a contributory factor. We don't at present know the answer to this but going by your report that oil is burnt only for a short period after starting, the scoring may well be superficial.

Everyone undertaking a restoration faces the questions you're considering Steve. The task always takes longer, becomes more expensive and involved than is first thought. So long as you enjoy the experience it will be worth it.

So to summarise:

1. Remain in personal control of expenditure.
2. Only repair what's really necessary.
3. Use specialists for each task.

Simon

[sworks]

Retro Sports Cars are highly recommend and know what they are doing so any advice they give id expect to be good. With regards to just doing the valve stem oil seals and putting it back together, that is a lot of work and cost if not only in replacing gaskets twice. Imagine having the heads stripped and rebuilt with new guides etc but the problem is still there... Valve stem oil seals Usually show from cold start or going down hill on overrun. I would expect this to be an annoyance but not use oil as significantly as you say. Maybe worth finding somebody that can do a leak down test?
I’m in agreement of rebuild and know everything is good or replace with a known good engine

[Arctic]

Didn't Ched have a 190 engine for sale recently ?

Found it link below worth asking.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...50#post2937850