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25th October 2021, 15:11 | #1 |
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rover75 saloon Join Date: Oct 2020
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Rover 75 rear number plate lights
I have a problem with the rear number plate bulbs I disconnected both connectors to do so work on the car I have no warning on the dash to say I have a bulb out but only one works o/s works n/s doesn’t can find the location to check the fuse !
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Last edited by sammy1957; 16th November 2021 at 01:44.. Reason: ALL IN NOW AND WORKING |
25th October 2021, 15:56 | #2 |
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rover 75 1.8 vvc club se wedgwood blue Join Date: Aug 2009
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Might have water on the pcb. You'll need to remove the chrome plinth to have a look.
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26th October 2021, 09:13 | #3 |
I really should get out more.......
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These festoon bulbs do get quite hot, and while a bulb may look as if it has a complete filament, often the soldered ends of the bulb that push into the fingered holder on the car may look ok, the soldered ends on these often melt away and the bulb fails. So worth either substituting the bulb with the one that works, or fit a new pair. The other area where things go wrong is the circuit board itself has known issues too. The contact on the board for the bulb holder were made with a process that has proven to be a bit unreliable, they are kind of riveted direct to the pcb track. After a few bulbs have been changed, the contact to the pcb becomes compromised resulting in what is considered a bulb failure, but in fact is the holder and pcb design that has let go. The way I have repaired these during my interest in Rovers/cars in general was to remove the whole pcb, clean everything thoroughly including the doublesided take holding it to the car, Solder the finger/bulb holders to the riveted point and a small puddle to contact the board as well. Upon testing and good result, apply a pcb lacquer to the underside of the board allow to dry and apply a good double sided tape to it prior to fitting to the vehicle. Time wise, I would allow about an hour for this job, and the use of (Leaded Solder) is far better as it has a lower heat requirement than unleaded and works far better.
Hope this helps and good luck. |
26th October 2021, 14:48 | #4 |
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If one light is out, usually it's the circuit board.
We have them here: https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/r75...y-xfc000220mmm
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27th October 2021, 17:39 | #5 |
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You might find Post 4 on this thread useful. It's one that never found its way onto the HowTo forum.
Click: https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...ad.php?t=78539 TC |
27th October 2021, 18:26 | #6 | |
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Quote:
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2nd November 2021, 20:38 | #7 | |
Gets stuck in
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Quote:
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3rd November 2021, 07:38 | #8 | |
Doesn't do things by halves
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Quote:
I've known bulbs to fail when disturbed too. If you don't have a multimeter, I'd suggest swapping the OS and NS bulbs to begin with. You don't want to be buying a replacement PCB when it might be a pesky 80p bulb all along! By the way, it won't be a fuse as one bulb is working and I'm uncertain that the bulb failure system includes the number plate lamps. Simon
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3rd November 2021, 08:51 | #9 |
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Number plate lamps are on the canbus Simon, so show if failed 😎
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3rd November 2021, 09:12 | #10 |
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I'm pretty sure it needs both bulbs to be out to trigger the bulb warning light.
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