Sykes Flaremaster 2

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by Blink

It'll only be straight if the pipe doesn't twist (at all) as it goes through the Kwix. Even the slightest rotation means you've got a wonky line.

Perhaps, but a good line does have value for bending a pipe in several directions but which must also lay perfectly flat.


TC

[Blink]

Originally Posted by ADO282

If you want stainless steel Simon, you need this type for both ends.

https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/stainl...SABEgIqYfD_BwE

Hope this helps

Chris

Unfortunately those are the wrong length - they're too long to lock in the bracket at the hose union.

1st pic - the top one is an ordinary fitting, bottom one is the stainless SSBU10M from carbuilder.



There's quite a difference.



I don't think carbuilder have any 'short' ones in stainless.

Hoses are Delphi LH0461 btw.

(Measurements are +/- 0.5mm )

[T-Cut]

If you paint your finished joints with Hammerite (esp. if you use their metal primer first), they'll be good for donkey's years.

TC

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

If you paint your finished joints with Hammerite (esp. if you use their metal primer first), they'll be good for donkey's years.

And when the paint has hardened you can dab Waxoyl all over it for even greater protection.

Simon

[Blink]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

If you paint your finished joints with Hammerite (esp. if you use their metal primer first), they'll be good for donkey's years.

TC

Originally Posted by SD1too

And when the paint has hardened you can dab Waxoyl all over it for even greater protection.

Simon

Yes, I think paint and then wax is the way to go. I've got Hammerite Direct to Metal and POR15 Rust Preventive Paint - I can use either of those and they won't need a primer.* Then I've got Dynax S50 and UC, either will do for the wax coating.

*Actually, it's called Hammerite Direct to Rust Metal. I'm not sure if that means it'll only stick to rust (as opposed to bare new metal).


Btw, the protector springs on the original factory hoses are coated** and the new springs are bare metal so I think I'll swap them over. The originals are an inch shorter (because there's no rubber sleeve on the Delphis) but I think they'll do.

**Like this one.

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by Blink

Actually, it's called Hammerite Direct to Rust Metal. I'm not sure if that means it'll only stick to rust (as opposed to bare new metal).

A careful wire brushing of any rusty surface before applying the Hammerite would be sensible. Loose/flaky rust should always be brushed off before applying the paint. I see Hammerite have now gone to a low VOC formula white spirit type, rather than the toluene/ester/ketone of old. (Let's hope it really will last donkey's years!) I suspect it won't be too long before it's water based.

Btw, the protector springs on the original factory hoses are coatedand the new springs are bare metal so I think I'll swap them over. The originals are an inch shorter (because there's no rubber sleeve on the Delphis) but I think they'll do.

I think the original protection 'springs' aren't steel but a simple spiral of plastic. I 'unwound' it from the old hose and put it back onto the new hose is similar fashion. That means both ends of the hose have a 'spring'. MGR's stiff rubber sleeve is a good idea IMO. The inner end gets all the movement from steering. It's to prevent the hose becoming fatigued near the crimped connection.



TC

[Blink]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

A careful wire brushing of any rusty surface before applying the Hammerite would be sensible. Loose/flaky rust should always be brushed off before applying the paint. I see Hammerite have now gone to a low VOC formula white spirit type, rather than the toluene/ester/ketone of old. (Let's hope it really will last donkey's years!) I suspect it won't be too long before it's water based.

No problems with rust TC - there's none left on the wheel arch brackets (I've de-rusted and painted them) and the hoses, pipes & fittings are all new.

I didn't know Hammerite had switched to a low VOC formula white spirit type. I see they're still recommending their own Brush Cleaner & Thinner, which costs a mere £20+ per litre! I wish all car paints were water based - buying thinners has cost me a packet. The cheapest I've found is still £12.95 per litre.

Originally Posted by T-Cut

I think the original protection 'springs' aren't steel but a simple spiral of plastic. I 'unwound' it from the old hose and put it back onto the new hose is similar fashion. That means both ends of the hose have a 'spring'. MGR's stiff rubber sleeve is a good idea IMO. The inner end gets all the movement from steering. It's to prevent the hose becoming fatigued near the crimped connection.TC

You're right, the protection springs are all-plastic - I just tried my telescopic magnetic pick up tool (link) and it doesn't stick to them.




I see what you mean about the rubber sleeves being an anti-fatigue device - it's a good idea and they do stop at least part of the crimp from rusting. Here's an MGR hose with the sleeve cut off.

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by Blink

I see they're still recommending their own Brush Cleaner & Thinner, which costs a mere £20+ per litre!

Yes, it's no doubt the best stuff, but I find white spirit will do a reasonably good job at cleaning the brush.

TC

[Blink]

Quick update.

Re the Sealey VS5056 Brake Pipe Straightener.

Although the Kwix tool is likely to be better (and easier) the Sealey works quite well for such a cheap tool (I paid £7.39 inc postage). On a 150cm length it produces more of a gentle arc than a dead straight pipe but it's a good starting point. There are two ways of using it: either a) push it forward onto the pipe coil in a twisting motion, or b) hold it stationary while the pipe is pulled through it.

The problem with method a) is that it's difficult to get enough grip to supply the necessary forward force. If they'd put a big flange on one end it would have been far easier because there'd be something to push against.

The problem with method b) is that unless you've got an assistant you have to keep stopping to move your pipe-pulling hand closer to the coil, which tends to put a kink in the piece of pipe you've just straightened. If they'd made it bench-mountable (and you've got an assistant) it would work a treat - you could straighten the whole 25ft coil in one go just by walking backwards without releasing your grip on the pipe.

So my opinion is it's good for the price but a bench-mountable version with one or two flanges would be a vast improvement.

[Blink]

Having straightened some lengths of pipe I've now done a couple of tests using the handheld flaring tool on a short offcut.

(The tool is mentioned in TC's post 8 btw - it's this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hand-Held...72.m2749.l2649).

1639


1635


1636


1630



The first question is - are they good enough? The mating surfaces on both attempts look pretty rough to me.

The second question relates to the use of the tool itself. The instructions say "A Spot of grease on the end of the punch is important to help the flare process". TC also said use a small amount of grease for each flare. The question is, which is the end of the punch - point A (the slim centre tip) or surface B (the large bevelled outer ring) - or both?

1645


For the test flares I put a small amount of grease on both A and B. Some of it inevitably ends up going inside the pipe btw, which isn't ideal considering they're brake pipes.