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Old 17th April 2021, 18:02   #1
rrobson
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Default Issues making the push fit coupling using DMGRS master??

Just seeing how widespread this issue is really but I had a good fight with trying to do the relatively simple task of making a push fit coupling.
Maybe 20 mins of various different ways, positions, much swearing and try as I might I could I eck get them to stay together. Just wouldn’t click and stay.

Bit of investigation the oem removed master easily clicked into the new luk slave, but the new master fitting wouldn’t go into the removed slave. Grabbed the digital vernier and it was quite evident there were differences between the two fittings








Luckily I’ve access to a lathe so I stuck it in the three jaw and knocked .75mm off the collar and would you believe it they went together no problem.
The scratches on the collar showed that it didn’t engage far enough for the sprung fingers in the slave fitting to latch on the collar.




Maybe others have had this problem? A good heads up for anyone looking to do this.


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Old 18th April 2021, 09:38   #2
Mike Noc
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Getting more common these days with remanufactured parts and wide tolerances.

Funnily enough I struggled with plugging the reverse sensors back in yesterday - they wouldn't go in far enough to engage the locking clip no matter how hard I pressed. A quick spray of silicone lubricant on the sealing rubber and they slid in no problem.
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Old 23rd April 2021, 16:57   #3
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Is this the all metal master cylinder?
If so, I’m going to be fitting mine in the next couple of weeks so I’ll find out
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Old 23rd April 2021, 17:15   #4
rrobson
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Yes, it’s their “oem” metal master. As said, the new slave wasn’t a problem as the removed genuine fitted from new master fitted the new slave but the new master wouldn’t fit either the old or new slave until I machined the collar down so there is clearly an issue with the sourced coupling.
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Old 23rd April 2021, 17:19   #5
rrobson
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Also worth noting the copper pipe supplied not only is about four inches too long, but has the incorrect flares on the ends. They have a double flare where there should be a bubble flare. Bear that in mind if you haven’t got a brake flaring kit...
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Old 23rd April 2021, 17:29   #6
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can you use the existing hydraulic pipe?

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Old 23rd April 2021, 19:54   #7
rrobson
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You probably could, however you would need an adaptor or fitting to go from an m10 x 1mm brake type threaded fitting to the plastic pipe because the connection to the oem slave is different. Anyone with access to a lathe would be able to knock up the appropriate adaptor, I didn’t disassemble the oem master but I’d assume it has an o-ring seal between the pipe fitting and the master which is held together with a pin.
I wouldn’t want to try threading the plastic pipe back through the bulk head, it was easier getting the gearbox off!!!
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Old 24th April 2021, 05:13   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrobson View Post
Also worth noting the copper pipe supplied not only is about four inches too long, but has the incorrect flares on the ends. They have a double flare where there should be a bubble flare. Bear that in mind if you haven’t got a brake flaring kit...
Really!?
I was sold this as plug and play, I haven’t got the facilities to modify the pipe work.
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Old 24th April 2021, 11:12   #9
rrobson
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Although I agree that it should fit as supplied, the new slave pipe work is longer so if the length of the supplied pipe is based off the oem slave then that’s where some discrepancies will have come from. However the incorrect flares is a concern, brake flaring kits are cheap so treat yourself to one but it’s upsetting the supplied parts need modifying to fit correctly.
Just try the parts together, mine may have been a one off?
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