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Old 1st December 2020, 15:26   #21
kelvo
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Spray any type of rust prevention in the holes guys, you don’t want to end up like this one....
If I saw sills and jacking points as bad as that I'd wonder if the last MOT tester was Stevie Wonder?
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Old 1st December 2020, 15:50   #22
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If I saw sills and jacking points as bad as that I'd wonder if the last MOT tester was Stevie Wonder?

You will be surprised how many are awful and yet they look reasonably ok until you start prodding with a pointy thing.
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Old 1st December 2020, 19:02   #23
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Spray any type of rust prevention in the holes guys, you don’t want to end up like this one....
I get your point about spraying them with goo. I thought these were blind holes; is there any disadvantage leaving the jack points open to the elements ie are they welded all round so exterior water cannot get inside the sill from that area.
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Old 1st December 2020, 20:37   #24
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The rust proofing just didn't seem to reach the back end of the sill. If yours hasn't rusted then the person who sprayed it inside must be someone who enjoyed the job.
The strength is in the jacking point not the outer sill .
I was gutted when I had to repair my osr .
But not to gutted when I realized so had nearly everyone else .
Good luck . Just make sure you use a rust neutraliser on all the bits you can't see . Then rust proof after you finish the job
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Old 1st December 2020, 20:38   #25
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Remove the stainless sill trims (Or painted for the ZT owners) And spray your weapon of choice through the holes, you will get to 99% of the inner sill that way.
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Old 1st December 2020, 23:50   #26
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As Trikey says ....dats the way to do it .
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Old 2nd December 2020, 08:16   #27
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As Trikey says ....dats the way to do it .
That gets the upper part of the sill coated, the lower part needs to be done via the drain holes underneath, and by removing the grommet at either end of the sill behind the wheel arch liners.


There is also a plastic baffle at either end about 18" in, this prevents the wax oil from going to the central part of the sill.


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Old 2nd December 2020, 10:40   #28
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Well doing it like that photo, I spent the rest of the day recovering the waxy fluid as it ran out of all the drain holes.


Did also go in thro' the rear holes to




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That gets the upper part of the sill coated, the lower part needs to be done via the drain holes underneath, and by removing the grommet at either end of the sill behind the wheel arch liners.


There is also a plastic baffle at either end about 18" in, this prevents the wax oil from going to the central part of the sill.


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Old 6th January 2021, 18:23   #29
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I finally got round to trying the two pieces of rubber hose between the prongs technique yesterday. I'd definitely recommend this method. The snap it made when the pad went in was almost as satisfying as the sound of a torque wrench clicking! Definitely won't be falling out again. I had to jack one of the pads in but got the other by hand.
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Old 12th January 2021, 22:42   #30
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Is there any way of flushing out the sills?
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