Clutch change saga

[FrenchMike]

Originally Posted by EastPete

Thanks Mike - do you think my quick fit connector looks OK, or should I try to separate it and reconnect with the plastic collar in the right place ?

I managed to sort the gear cables - the spring clips were a bit mangled/bent, and getting caught in the groove that the outer cable slides into - once I had straightened the clips, everything slotted into place fine.

Thanks for your help

Pete

Well Pete,see how it works



The role of The open plastic ring is when pushed forward it expands the ring
spring and release the system.
My tool allows to apply a regular force on half the diameter ..a screwdriver can't ....

[EastPete]

Originally Posted by FrenchMike

Well Pete,see how it works



The role of The open plastic ring is when pushed forward it expands the ring
spring and release the system.
My tool allows to apply a regular force on half the diameter ..a screwdriver can't ....

Thanks Mike

Perhaps I should just bleed the system through and leave the Eezibleed on for a while to check for leaks at the connector.

Pete

[HarryM1BYT]

Originally Posted by EastPete

Thanks Mike - do you think my quick fit connector looks OK, or should I try to separate it and reconnect with the plastic collar in the right place ?

The collar is just a means to release the joint, so far as I am aware it serves no part in sealing the joint - so if it has clicked into place it should be fine.

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by Avulon

Not close, but you could always make an afternoon of it and go fetch it yourself (they're in Lincoln). Apparently worth a visit as well just to see the cars they have on display.

I notice that apart from LHD and RHD versions there are also 2001 onwards and 2005 onwards frame kits - does anyone know the differences and how important they might be to a 2003 diesel?

That was my thoughts too, Rimmer Bros is 70 miles from Ramsey, I was tempted to drive from my place 165 miles each way, because I remember all to well how much of a pain it was to derust treat and paint the last subframe I took off to replace the clutch.

The only differences between the subframes on all of the models (LHD excepted) are the mounting points for automatic gearbox oil coolers, and V6 engine oil cooler pipework, even the V8 where the factory chopped a lump out of the back with an angle grinder

So a 2003 diesel shouldn't be a problem

Brian

[FrenchMike]

Originally Posted by EastPete

Thanks Mike

Perhaps I should just bleed the system through and leave the Eezibleed on for a while to check for leaks at the connector.

Pete

Once bleeded ,a little trick to detect leaks :



on mine (B&B slave and Tazu master) when i push the clutch pedal with my finger ,it gets the level of the brake pedal .in that condition the biting point is around one third of the travel (from the bottom )

[EastPete]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

That was my thoughts too, Rimmer Bros is 70 miles from Ramsey, I was tempted to drive from my place 165 miles each way, because I remember all to well how much of a pain it was to derust treat and paint the last subframe I took off to replace the clutch.

The only differences between the subframes on all of the models (LHD excepted) are the mounting points for automatic gearbox oil coolers, and V6 engine oil cooler pipework, even the V8 where the factory chopped a lump out of the back with an angle grinder

So a 2003 diesel shouldn't be a problem

Brian

I might be tempted to drive to Lincoln to get one (only about hour and a half drive) - it will save me about 80 pounds. I'll see how I feel once I start trying to clean up-the old one !

Pete

[EastPete]

I have refitted the drive shafts to the gearbox - I did the nearside one first. I fitted a new circlip. It was a bit fiddly getting the old one out with the shaft still attached to the hub. Eventually, with the help of some small circlip pliers, I got it out, and slipped the new one on over the end of the shaft into the groove. With some red brake grease smeared around the driveshaft seals, and LM grease on the splines, I carefully pushed the shaft into the diff, trying to keep it straight - it hit resistance about one inch from home, at which point a few taps with a rubber mallet drove it home - I think it is fully inserted (see picture below - I was a bit worried about this as there was a story on here the other day of someone losing drive after a clutch change because the NS drive shaft was not pushed fully home). So do you folks think the shaft is fully pushed home ?

OS shaft was a bit reluctant to go in - again, I greased the seal and splines as for the NS, and was just case of making sure it went in straight and turning it slightly until it suddenly clicked in - no taps with the hammer needed. The support bracket was then bolted back into place (14mm bolts to 25 Nm).

Other jobs done today:

- Reconnected the reverse light switch on the gearbox.
- Reconnected the gear selector cables
- Replaced the starter motor and reconnected the associated wiring
- Replaced the air intake duct on top of the engine
- Connected the slave at the quick fit connector (very tight fit)

Next job is to bleed the clutch hydraulics, then I will turn my attention to the subframe
Cheers

Pete

[EastPete]

Decided to bleed the clutch this morning. Got out the Eezibleed and hooked it up - when I did the pressure test without fluid in the bottle (as recommended by Gunsen), fluid sprayed everywhere above the gearbox - the bleed nipple was not tight even though I had checked by hand earlier. Not a good start !!

In view of this, I decided it would need a really good bleed through with lots of DOT4. I gave it three purges through with at least 100 mL going through each time until the fluid was clear. The first fluid through was bit murky, but I guess maybe this was some of the grey grease on the seal in the new slave. I left the system pressurised for half an hour after bleeding, with paper towels under the Quick fit connector and bleed nipple to check for leaks. Things looked OK at this stage, so I removed the Eezibleed, removed 5-10 mL of fluid from the top of the master with a syringe/cannula, popped the rubber 'condom' back in, and screwed on the lid. Moment of truth - did I have a pedal ?? Yes- quite a good one actually. Smooth, reasonably light with the biting point feeling as though it was not far from the top.

One slight concern - after pumping the pedal a few times, I checked the paper towels on top of the box, and there was a small drop of fluid below the bleed nipple. It looks as though it had come from the joint behind the larger (13mm) nut coupling on the bleed nipple, so I put a small pair of mole grips on the collar behind the 13mm nut, and nipped up the 13mm fitting a bit tighter. I have placed fresh tissue under the bleed nipple, and pressurised the system by jamming a lump of wood between the clutch pedal and the seat - I'll leave it for few hours and check there are no more drips around the bleed nipple.

Updates will follow. FrenchMike, I am sure you would like to comment !

Cheers

Pete

[Arctic]

Hi Pete.
A big thank you for an excellent thread and read, right from the start 17th Jan up to present great detail and photo's also some of the best knowledgeable members have added to the thread also, this will be one of those thread that can be referred to in the future.

I have not forgot that I said I would add he photo's of the slave seal, but I have refrained from doing so until you have finished, that way we can go over the parts that seem to have given the trouble, and why, once again thank you for taking the time to share your work cheers Arctic.

[FrenchMike]

Originally Posted by EastPete

Decided to bleed the clutch this morning. Got out the Eezibleed and hooked it up - when I did the pressure test without fluid in the bottle (as recommended by Gunsen), fluid sprayed everywhere above the gearbox - the bleed nipple was not tight even though I had checked by hand earlier. Not a good start !!

In view of this, I decided it would need a really good bleed through with lots of DOT4. I gave it three purges through with at least 100 mL going through each time until the fluid was clear. The first fluid through was bit murky, but I guess maybe this was some of the grey grease on the seal in the new slave. I left the system pressurised for half an hour after bleeding, with paper towels under the Quick fit connector and bleed nipple to check for leaks. Things looked OK at this stage, so I removed the Eezibleed, removed 5-10 mL of fluid from the top of the master with a syringe/cannula, popped the rubber 'condom' back in, and screwed on the lid. Moment of truth - did I have a pedal ?? Yes- quite a good one actually. Smooth, reasonably light with the biting point feeling as though it was not far from the top.

One slight concern - after pumping the pedal a few times, I checked the paper towels on top of the box, and there was a small drop of fluid below the bleed nipple. It looks as though it had come from the joint behind the larger (13mm) nut coupling on the bleed nipple, so I put a small pair of mole grips on the collar behind the 13mm nut, and nipped up the 13mm fitting a bit tighter. I have placed fresh tissue under the bleed nipple, and pressurised the system by jamming a lump of wood between the clutch pedal and the seat - I'll leave it for few hours and check there are no more drips around the bleed nipple.

Updates will follow. FrenchMike, I am sure you would like to comment !

Cheers

Pete

Pete,mind you to prevent any damage , always use the couple of spanners
13 and 8 to open/close the bleed nipple