Clutch change saga

[2.8jonmy]

I fitted a borg and beck with metal slave, early days yet the the quality appears to be good.
As usual I did it my own way and didn't drop the sub frame out but can offer one tip that I think may help. The sub frame bolts are the same thread as the gearbox to engine ones but much longer, if you temporarily fit the gearbox using them it makes alignment a doddle.

Cheers Jon.

[EastPete]

Originally Posted by Phil-T4

Dont forget the guide tube UTL100080

Got one on the shelf (and oil seal) ready to go in .

Cheers

Pete

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by Phil-T4

Dont forget the guide tube UTL100080

And given the history behind this particular car, a sound bit of advice

Pete, the lifting eye adjacent to the pipework outlet of the gearbox bellhousing is perfectly balanced for a lift using your engine crane, and a couple of lengths of M12 studding screwed into diagonally opposing holes in the block will allow for much easier alignment of the gearbox when refitting

My own "dowels" were made from a pair of old subframe bolts, with the hex cut off, a tapered lead in machined on the end, and a slot cut in with a hacksaw to allow them to be unscrewed once the gearbox is secured.

The job is much easier to do with the subframe off, and more importantly there will be no riving and tearing on with the engine supported correctly.

Best of luck

Brian

[EastPete]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

And given the history behind this particular car, a sound bit of advice

Pete, the lifting eye adjacent to the pipework outlet of the gearbox bellhousing is perfectly balanced for a lift using your engine crane, and a couple of lengths of M12 studding screwed into diagonally opposing holes in the block will allow for much easier alignment of the gearbox when refitting

My own "dowels" were made from a pair of old subframe bolts, with the hex cut off, a tapered lead in machined on the end, and a slot cut in with a hacksaw to allow them to be unscrewed once the gearbox is secured.

The job is much easier to do with the subframe off, and more importantly there will be no riving and tearing on with the engine supported correctly.

Best of luck

Brian

Thanks Brian (the 'Thanks' button seems to have disappeared - not sure why). I'll keep you all posted.

Pete

[EastPete]

Originally Posted by DMGRS

Hello Pete, thanks for the order - it should be with you shortly.
The Metal Slave in my opinion is the best way forward, hopefully your experience is shared with the other members who have one too.

Good luck with the work, especially in the awful drizzly weather we've had recently.

Mat - Parts have just arrived safely
Many thanks
Pete

[Arctic]

Hi Pete.
Good luck hopefully with the good hint's given already the job will go smooth, please keep us informed also if you have time to take photo's all the better, from the pic i saw so far at least you have a dry garage to work in albeit maybe still cold, a few cuppa soups will help along the way, hot tomato with some added rainbow pepper

[planenut]

Originally Posted by EastPete

After three years of trying to get local garages and assorted 'expert mechanics' to get me a decent clutch in my 75 CDTi, I am biting the bullet and changing the clutch myself.
Wish me luck - it is bit scary doing this for the first time !
Cheers Pete

Great stuff and thanks for sharing this Pete. Nice to have a garage to work in.

[EastPete]

Suggestions please - what shall I tie the steering rack to, to stop it dropping down when I remove the mounting bolts ?. I cannot see anything obvious (and which will not be disturbed later on).

I've got the exhaust dropped down, and everything else disconnected from the subframe- the steering rack bolts are last thing before I attack the subframe bolts themselves.

Thanks for the help in advance

Cheers

Pete

[COLVERT]

Steering rack.


A piece of wood across the wings ( on rag. ) and a couple of aerolastics.

[FrenchMike]