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18th January 2017, 14:19 | #21 |
This is my second home
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18th January 2017, 14:40 | #22 |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti Join Date: Aug 2008
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Mike
I have slackened the four rack bolts, no problem - access was not too hard. My question was what to tie the rack to before removing the bolts completely. Thanks for any help you can offer Cheers Pete |
18th January 2017, 14:46 | #23 |
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18th January 2017, 15:34 | #24 |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti Join Date: Aug 2008
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Mike - I think it needs to be secured, otherwise it can drop off the end of the steering column, and you then have the hassle of trying to re-connect/re-align it. I have heard of instances there this has happened during a clutch change
Pete |
18th January 2017, 16:32 | #25 | |
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Quote:
for me ,it was only one inch separated from the body... Last edited by FrenchMike; 18th January 2017 at 16:35.. |
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18th January 2017, 17:12 | #26 |
I really should get out more.......
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I use a piece of wood and old seat belt webbing.
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18th January 2017, 17:39 | #27 |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti Join Date: Aug 2008
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Subframe is off !
A bit of progress today. I prepared the subframe for removal:
- Removed lower 'teardrop' engine mount (2 X 15mm bolts). - Unbolted front of exhaust from down pipe (3 x 15mm nuts) - Unbolted the two cross braces in the central floor tunnel that the exhaust runs in (10mm bolts). - Unhooked the exhaust from the two front rubber mounts and lowered it to the ground. - Removed the fixings on the subframe for the power steering pipework and the 'P-clip' for the lower coolant pipe at the front. - Slackened the bolts holding the rear subframe braces (10mm bolts). - I secured the steering rack with a couple of pieces of thin rope tied to an old broom handle which I wedged behind/under the wipers (I am sure there are other ways of doing it !). I then removed the 4x13mm bolts securing the rack to the subfame. Note that the nearside/offside bolts are different lengths, so make a note of which side they go back in. I then cracked the 15mm subframe bolts- some of these were very tight, and needed a long breaker bar to get them moving. I supported the subframe with a trolley jack on the front jacking point, with a couple of axle stands at the rear of the frame. I progressively loosened the bolts, and used a couple of old scissor jacks at the side of the subframe to gently lower it once the bolts had been completely removed, checking all the time it was not fouling anything. Once the rear bolts have been removed, the bracing pieces can be removed as well. Keep the subframe bolts in the right order- they are different lengths, so I put them through a piece of card labelled with the correct position for each bolt. The subframe is quite unwieldy to handle on your own, so two pairs of hands will make removal easier. I was going to get help from a neighbour, but he cried off citing a bad back in this cold weather ! Next task will be to strip out gubbins under the bonnet to get access to the gearbox mount. I am not sure when that will be - I am busy with other things over the next few days, but at least I have made a start !. To be continued... Cheers Pete Last edited by EastPete; 18th January 2017 at 17:48.. Reason: typo |
18th January 2017, 22:04 | #28 |
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Cheers for the continuing updates Pete - I have a feeling that I'll be following in your footsteps sometime in the future - if not because of the clutch then maybe the slave. I'm guessing I'm still on the original items after 12 years and 73k miles.
Please keep the updates and photos coming! |
19th January 2017, 20:14 | #29 | |
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Didn't you like my post number 19 to you ???--------------- Or did you just want to get to post 26 ?????----Lol. PS. I'll get you, just see if I don't. Last edited by COLVERT; 19th January 2017 at 20:17.. |
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20th January 2017, 06:45 | #30 | |
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Take care Pete |
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