My KV6 Cambelt change

[p2roverman]

Originally Posted by beinet1

Hi,

Thanks for the picture. This clarifies things a bit up and is in line with the statements from 1955Diesel.

So, the rear sprockets is about 1,5 tooth out on the 2 litre when the flywheel are locked in the safe position?

It was the front sprocket and cam that I found to be about 1.5 teeth out (timing retarded) when I tried to fit the front tool with the engine locked, this being from when the job had been done previously before my ownership. Possibly explains why I have realised the performance is down.

What you see in the photo is how far out the rear wheels are from lining up the marks when the front tools are in place (irrespective of whether the engine is locked)

[chris75]

Originally Posted by p2roverman

No, I see you also have a 2-litre. This tool fitting is a bit of a mystery. When starting the job I found that with the engine locked the front tools would not engage the inlet cams by a wheel angle equivalent to about one and a half teeth of the belt. The 2.5 tool looked a closer fit but I didn't try it. I'm working on the basis that using the front tools I can at least get the valve timing back to factory spec. And yes, it does seem normal for the rear wheel marks not to be in alignment when the engine is locked, with the problem of fitting the rear tool as a result.

I have attached the complete Sealey instructions for you to have a look at
I did not experience the problems you are having when I followed these instructions ,but my procedure seems to be a bit different. I have done the job three times , twice with the tools and once without ; I prefer it with
One significant difference may be that as per instructions I aligned both sprockets and belt as an assembly whilst on the bench ; they were fitted to the engine as an assembly with only the exhaust cam needing to be turned as mentioned before . Worked fine !

[p2roverman]

Just to clarify. I had to rotate the inlet camshaft the equivalent of 1.5 teeth anticlockwise from its position with the engine locked and old front belt in place before the front tool would engage. If the job had been done correctly before, the tools should engage with the engine locked and old belt still in place, subject to any wear or stetch in the belt (I'm told they don't stretch)

[p2roverman]

Originally Posted by chris75

I have attached the complete Sealey instructions for you to have a look at

THanks for posting these, the clearest instructions I have seen except not mentioning the setting of the tensioner.

However the significant point made over the rear belts is that the engine be turned to the 'safe' position, but that no mention is made of fitting the locking pin, i.e the locking pin is NOT to be fitted. In this situation the engine can be turned fractionally so that the marks on the rear wheels line up so the rear tool can be fitted.

Another point is made over the front wheels 'freewheeling'. It would seem they do not turn completely, being restricted either by the tool pins sticking through the spokes or a design feature (I did not take them off to investigate). Essential to position the wheels when fitting the main belt that while turning on the locked camshaft to take up belt slack they do not reach a limit of rotation.

Incidently, I did not make/use a crank pulley locking tool but relied on the engine locking pin to not break. Other posts have mentioned this and concluded the pin is strong enough.

In fact a KV6 cambelt change is straight-forward even if not simple job made unnecessarily complicated by so many opinions and posts on the various sites. It was this flurry of information that caused me to make so many checks and enquiries on the forum. At least I'll have no worries when I come to do the other cars.

[chris75]

Originally Posted by p2roverman

However the significant point made over the rear belts is that the engine be turned to the 'safe' position, but that no mention is made of fitting the locking pin, i.e the locking pin is NOT to be fitted. In this situation the engine can be turned fractionally so that the marks on the rear wheels line up so the rear tool can be fitted.

Another point is made over the front wheels 'freewheeling'. It would seem they do not turn completely, being restricted either by the tool pins sticking through the spokes or a design feature (I did not take them off to investigate). Essential to position the wheels when fitting the main belt that while turning on the locked camshaft to take up belt slack they do not reach a limit of rotation.

Incidently, I did not make/use a crank pulley locking tool but relied on the engine locking pin to not break. Other posts have mentioned this and concluded the pin is strong enough.

.

They do indeed only seem to advocate the use of the locking pin for the 825 variant . As it happens , I used it anyway !
The front sprockets do have limited movement by design, about a 1/4 turn as I recall .You won't run out of rotation , as you wind them fully clockwise before fitting the belt and then just back them off enough as you fit the belt to get a snug fit with a tight belt .
I didn't use a crankshaft pulley locking tool either . I put the car in gear and got the wife to stamp on the brakes whilst I used my breaker bar on the pulley nut !
Good luck when you do the others ; let us know if it goes any easier , or even differently .......

[p2roverman]

Thanks Chris. Having done a lot of reading of comments and looked into the design of the valve gear, realise that it is a straight forward job, even if initially intimidating to someone approaching it from cold, as I was. I see no problems now or in the future when I do the other engines. Just waiting for better weather to finish the job, including 'stat, steering pum and brake pipe. No great hurry as I'm driving my £140 ebay 'spare' 75!

[jn12]

Originally Posted by p2roverman

Thanks Chris. Having done a lot of reading of comments and looked into the design of the valve gear, realise that it is a straight forward job, even if initially intimidating to someone approaching it from cold, as I was. I see no problems now or in the future when I do the other engines. Just waiting for better weather to finish the job, including 'stat, steering pum and brake pipe. No great hurry as I'm driving my £140 ebay 'spare' 75!

Exactly the same position I was in several years ago and it was hard work getting the correct information. I took the wrong advice and had to correct the timing and all the time the car was sat there in bits for days. The weather was against me as well, which of course make a job like this awful in the rain, snow and ice.

Regarding the fitting of the front tools, the amount you have turned the cam to allow the front tool to slot in sounds right. I only fitted the front tool once the old belt has been removed and to loosen the sprocket bolts. As Chris described there is some movement and both sprockets need to be turned fully clockwise. Don’t be shy in letting them move as this does aid belt fitment.

Again as Chris has mentioned the other end of the timing tool slots into the end of the exhaust camshaft and allows you to turn the cam to allow the rear gears to slot onto the

[jn12]

Originally Posted by p2roverman

It was the front sprocket and cam that I found to be about 1.5 teeth out (timing retarded) when I tried to fit the front tool with the engine locked, this being from when the job had been done previously before my ownership. Possibly explains why I have realised the performance is down.

What you see in the photo is how far out the rear wheels are from lining up the marks when the front tools are in place (irrespective of whether the engine is locked)

Sorry did not see this, clearly someone has been there before then. Fortunatly you have the tools to reset.

[p2roverman]

Just doing some final checks and decided I'm not happy with the timing on one bank. Wish I'd checked before torguing the camshaft bolts up.

What is the view on re-using the bolts that secure the chainwheels? The instructions are to always fit new; I'll be a bit peeved as one bolt will end up scrap before the engine is even completed. Maybe I'll keep it and use next time in a less onerous position, the rear chainwheels. Would appreciate opinions.

[jn12]

Originally Posted by p2roverman

Just doing some final checks and decided I'm not happy with the timing on one bank. Wish I'd checked before torguing the camshaft bolts up.

What is the view on re-using the bolts that secure the chainwheels? The instructions are to always fit new; I'll be a bit peeved as one bolt will end up scrap before the engine is even completed. Maybe I'll keep it and use next time in a less onerous position, the rear chainwheels. Would appreciate opinions.

What makes you think it's wrong considering you have used the tools?

I have used them again as ordering more would have caused delay and so have many others. The renewal of the bolts is another topic of debate when talking about the KV6 belt change