Handbrake woes

chicochapman · 25th April 2020, 11:31

following on from

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=304379

where I have one side working ok but not the other - I've looked at the rear of the back plates and the appearance of the locating pin heads looks the same on both sides, so maybe its not the common "corroded through the back plate" fault.
I've tried everything (except Artic's suggestion to use spiral grip sockets because I haven't got any) to remove the caliper mounting bolts so I can see what's going on inside the drum but no luck.

So mainly because the locating pins seem ok, I was wondering whether one side working and one side not was a symptom of compensator failure? or something else?

I've seen Arctic's excellent "how to" replace the compensator and I'm sure I could do that ok if that was a probable cause?
Malc

trikey · 25th April 2020, 11:52

It’s not normally a compensator issue when one side is weaker than the other, it’s normally adjustment or something has failed on the wheel end!

bl52krz · 25th April 2020, 12:27

Have you followed the correct procedure for adjusting the hand brake? You have to slacken the nut that is underneath the actual handbrake lever first, right the way to the top, before adjusting at the wheel. There is a how-to in the technical section by Artic, a good one.

chicochapman · 25th April 2020, 13:28

No, I hadn't done that. I'd jumped straight in and tried adjusting without slackening off at the hand brake

.
I'll try that next, thanks.

chicochapman · 25th April 2020, 16:03

Slackened off at the handbrake, removing a stack of washers about 3/4"deep and replacing the nut flush with end of the screw.
I moved the adjuster about 60 notches until it came to a full stop.
I wound the nut(minus washers) to the prescribed one inch of thread.

The handbrake now pulls right up about 10 or 11 clicks until it bites.
The off-side wheel is locked ok but no discernible difference to the nearside one.
Is it possible the nearside cable has pulled out of the adjuster?
Any other thoughts?
thanks,
Malc

Mike Noc · 25th April 2020, 20:47

You need to get your caliper off, then the disc and all will be revealed.

People's thoughts won't help you that much Malc, as you will need to confirm the problem before you can fix it anyhow.

If the bolt heads are rounded off then whip the sliders out and that should give you more room to work on the bolts.

.

25th April 2020, 11:31	#1
chicochapman Avid contributor MG ZT-T Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Stockport Posts: 135 Thanks: 56 Thanked 22 Times in 20 Posts	Handbrake woes following on from https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=304379 where I have one side working ok but not the other - I've looked at the rear of the back plates and the appearance of the locating pin heads looks the same on both sides, so maybe its not the common "corroded through the back plate" fault. I've tried everything (except Artic's suggestion to use spiral grip sockets because I haven't got any) to remove the caliper mounting bolts so I can see what's going on inside the drum but no luck. So mainly because the locating pins seem ok, I was wondering whether one side working and one side not was a symptom of compensator failure? or something else? I've seen Arctic's excellent "how to" replace the compensator and I'm sure I could do that ok if that was a probable cause? Malc

25th April 2020, 11:52	#2
trikey Premium Trader Rover 75 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Devon Posts: 33,774 Thanks: 8,837 Thanked 14,831 Times in 8,030 Posts	It’s not normally a compensator issue when one side is weaker than the other, it’s normally adjustment or something has failed on the wheel end! __________________ Lest we forget..

25th April 2020, 12:27	#3
bl52krz This is my second home Rover 75 cdt club + Rover 2.5 KV6 Conni SE Join Date: May 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 11,396 Thanks: 6,587 Thanked 2,262 Times in 1,729 Posts	Have you followed the correct procedure for adjusting the hand brake? You have to slacken the nut that is underneath the actual handbrake lever first, right the way to the top, before adjusting at the wheel. There is a how-to in the technical section by Artic, a good one. __________________ Great Barr, Birmingham.

25th April 2020, 20:47	#6
Mike Noc This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Hampshire Posts: 11,551 Thanks: 3,470 Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts	You need to get your caliper off, then the disc and all will be revealed. People's thoughts won't help you that much Malc, as you will need to confirm the problem before you can fix it anyhow. If the bolt heads are rounded off then whip the sliders out and that should give you more room to work on the bolts. . Last edited by Mike Noc; 25th April 2020 at 20:57..

25th April 2020, 13:28	#4
chicochapman Avid contributor MG ZT-T Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Stockport Posts: 135 Thanks: 56 Thanked 22 Times in 20 Posts	No, I hadn't done that. I'd jumped straight in and tried adjusting without slackening off at the hand brake . I'll try that next, thanks.

25th April 2020, 16:03	#5
chicochapman Avid contributor MG ZT-T Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Stockport Posts: 135 Thanks: 56 Thanked 22 Times in 20 Posts	Slackened off at the handbrake, removing a stack of washers about 3/4"deep and replacing the nut flush with end of the screw. I moved the adjuster about 60 notches until it came to a full stop. I wound the nut(minus washers) to the prescribed one inch of thread. The handbrake now pulls right up about 10 or 11 clicks until it bites. The off-side wheel is locked ok but no discernible difference to the nearside one. Is it possible the nearside cable has pulled out of the adjuster? Any other thoughts? thanks, Malc