What I did with my Rover 75/MG ZT today? - Page 269

Jules · 7th February 2015, 14:59

FYI gents :

2 ways of resetting the -30 C reading after temp sensor has been replaced/reconnected.

1 quick way.
Disconnect battery for 2 mins.

2 Drive for 10 mins over 40 mph and you'll see the display rising to correct ambient temp.
Some recalibrate quicker than others.

MangoMan · 7th February 2015, 15:55

Update on Post #2789

Took the charger to Halfords where the chap there took it apart and found a glass fuse on the PCB had blown...??? So out with the soldering iron, made a modification and 30 minutes later it was working again.... At NO CHARGE!!!

Now, that is what I call service.

By the way, the charger was more than 6 years old, so it saved me buying a new one!

And people say Halfords is no good - well not this one!

p2roverman · 7th February 2015, 16:10

Topped up the radiator of my newly acquired KV6 Connie SE, as was told, after I'd bought it, that it needs topping up regularly.
I can see a new gasket under the manifold, and the radiator looks new so am wondering what was done only a few months back (last owner had it 3 months). It's done 54k and everything else seems 100%.

roverbarmy · 7th February 2015, 16:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by p2roverman

Topped up the radiator of my newly acquired KV6 Connie SE, as was told, after I'd bought it, that it needs topping up regularly.
I can see a new gasket under the manifold, and the radiator looks new so am wondering what was done only a few months back (last owner had it 3 months). It's done 54k and everything else seems 100%.

Just remember that the high mark is actually way down in the header tank and not at the top of the fins.

I've been overfilling mine!

See pics on THIS page
Mike

DaveyC · 7th February 2015, 16:23

Changed the lower engine mount, fixed the exhaust heat shield as it was rattling. No more clunking and rattling

klarzy · 7th February 2015, 16:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by MangoMan

Update on Post #2789

Took the charger to Halfords where the chap there took it apart and found a glass fuse on the PCB had blown...??? So out with the soldering iron, made a modification and 30 minutes later it was working again.... At NO CHARGE!!!

Now, that is what I call service.

By the way, the charger was more than 6 years old, so it saved me buying a new one!

And people say Halfords is no good - well not this one!

No replacement fuse then Mangoman...? the first one would have gone for a reason... make sure you are still protected my friend...

EastPete · 7th February 2015, 16:35

Fixed the dashboard and door button 'zizzing' noises. Placed some rubber draught excluder strip in the gap between the top of the dash and the windscreen, silicone spray into the join between the 'wood' and top of the front dash, with a strip of round rubber (a plumbing washer from B&Q cut open) pushed into the join above the clock and air vents in the centre dash.

For the doors buttons, I used the McDonalds straw fix suggested by someone on here - slit open a straw down the side, slipped it over the door buttons, pushed down as far as it would go, trimmed the straw back so it would just 'disappear' below the top of the door ledge.

Brilliant ! - a 10 mile test drive at varying speeds/road surfaces indicates these fixes have been successful - the cabin is a quieter, calmer place to be now !

Thanks to those contributors on here who posted these fixes - very helpful.

Pete

MangoMan · 7th February 2015, 16:37

Yes, he soldered in an in-line fuse (15A).

I had lent it to a friend and he said they might have done something wrong because the fuse on the outside which was supposed to be a 10A had been replaced with a 25A - he said that this could have caused the 15A inside to blow...???

Anyway, it's as it was, just with a different type fuse but the same resistance.

But thanks for the thought....

p2roverman · 7th February 2015, 16:37

Thanks, Mike

Quote:

Originally Posted by roverbarmy

Just remember that the high mark is actually way down in the header tank and not at the top of the fins.

I've been overfilling mine!

I've just over-filled mine, then. Looked for some obvious marks without success and assumed it was the top of the fins. Looking at the handbook suggests there is text, presumably raised letters in the plastic, visible down the filler hole, but I couldn't make out anything. Will have to check tomorrow and take some out.

It must have been down as I put a litre in.
Mike

See pics on THIS page
Mike

alanjay · 7th February 2015, 17:17

Stuck a pair of C pillar badges on rear door uprights on my Tourer, lazy way of concealing a couple of rust spots.

7th February 2015, 14:59	#2681
Jules This is my second home ZT 260 SE Twilight and 10 other 75 ZT's :O Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Conwy NORTH WALES Posts: 11,094 Thanks: 512 Thanked 1,116 Times in 763 Posts	FYI gents : 2 ways of resetting the -30 C reading after temp sensor has been replaced/reconnected. 1 quick way. Disconnect battery for 2 mins. 2 Drive for 10 mins over 40 mph and you'll see the display rising to correct ambient temp. Some recalibrate quicker than others. __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Newbies do now!! 1. Plenum drains..all 3 or 4 year dependent 2. Cooling fan..All speeds functioning 3. Bonnet cable divider block

7th February 2015, 15:55	#2682
MangoMan This is my second home Looking.... Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: England Posts: 10,911 Thanks: 862 Thanked 1,111 Times in 868 Posts	Update on Post #2789 Took the charger to Halfords where the chap there took it apart and found a glass fuse on the PCB had blown...??? So out with the soldering iron, made a modification and 30 minutes later it was working again.... At NO CHARGE!!! Now, that is what I call service. By the way, the charger was more than 6 years old, so it saved me buying a new one! And people say Halfords is no good - well not this one! __________________ *Regards, Bill - (MangoMan).* (Member 00854) http://i1110.photobucket.com/albums/...d.jpg~original

7th February 2015, 16:23	#2685
DaveyC I really should get out more....... MG ZT-T Diesel Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Costa-Del-Dudley Posts: 2,432 Thanks: 213 Thanked 259 Times in 204 Posts	Changed the lower engine mount, fixed the exhaust heat shield as it was rattling. No more clunking and rattling __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

7th February 2015, 16:37	#2688
MangoMan This is my second home Looking.... Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: England Posts: 10,911 Thanks: 862 Thanked 1,111 Times in 868 Posts	Yes, he soldered in an in-line fuse (15A). I had lent it to a friend and he said they might have done something wrong because the fuse on the outside which was supposed to be a 10A had been replaced with a 25A - he said that this could have caused the 15A inside to blow...??? Anyway, it's as it was, just with a different type fuse but the same resistance. But thanks for the thought.... __________________ *Regards, Bill - (MangoMan).* (Member 00854) http://i1110.photobucket.com/albums/...d.jpg~original

7th February 2015, 16:10	#2683
p2roverman Gets stuck in Rover 75 Connie Tourer & Connie SE Saloon & Club SE Tourer Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Leeds Posts: 975 Thanks: 199 Thanked 71 Times in 59 Posts	Topped up the radiator of my newly acquired KV6 Connie SE, as was told, after I'd bought it, that it needs topping up regularly. I can see a new gasket under the manifold, and the radiator looks new so am wondering what was done only a few months back (last owner had it 3 months). It's done 54k and everything else seems 100%.

7th February 2015, 16:35	#2687
EastPete Posted a thing or two Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Ramsey, Cambs Posts: 1,874 Thanks: 626 Thanked 635 Times in 430 Posts	Fixed the dashboard and door button 'zizzing' noises. Placed some rubber draught excluder strip in the gap between the top of the dash and the windscreen, silicone spray into the join between the 'wood' and top of the front dash, with a strip of round rubber (a plumbing washer from B&Q cut open) pushed into the join above the clock and air vents in the centre dash. For the doors buttons, I used the McDonalds straw fix suggested by someone on here - slit open a straw down the side, slipped it over the door buttons, pushed down as far as it would go, trimmed the straw back so it would just 'disappear' below the top of the door ledge. Brilliant ! - a 10 mile test drive at varying speeds/road surfaces indicates these fixes have been successful - the cabin is a quieter, calmer place to be now ! Thanks to those contributors on here who posted these fixes - very helpful. Pete

7th February 2015, 17:17	#2690
alanjay Passed Away Rover 75 Connie Tourer Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Guildford Posts: 2,582 Thanks: 682 Thanked 979 Times in 612 Posts	Stuck a pair of C pillar badges on rear door uprights on my Tourer, lazy way of concealing a couple of rust spots.