DIY Service!

sylvester · 3rd November 2007, 20:36

I decided to do my own service on my 75 CDTi Tourer on this its third service at 50,000 miles. After consultation with the Forum I bought a Pela pump which made the job reasonably straight forward and a probably a lot cleaner!
For anybody contemplating doing it thenselves then heres my two penneth.
My first recommendation is to buy the Haynes manual - I would have had some trouble finding the two allen screws behind the air filter housing without the Haynes pictures.
Buy an exact fitting socket to remove the oil filter cover. It is made of hard plastic, might take some effort to budge and a normal 'corners only' socket might well round those off before it comes undone. Sealey part no SX114 on Ebay - several suppliers.
I replaced the pollen filter but found it necessary to remove the wipers and the lower windscreen seal in order to get at it - the "how to" guide suggests that it can be got out without doing this but I couldn't. In the process I dropped one of the wiper arm collets which ended up in the engine under tray and is still there - I bought another! Tip then - place a large piece of card over the motor and the gap between it and the screen seal before removing anything!
The bolt holding the fuel filter strap was very tight - there isn't enough room to put a socket on it so use a ring spanner - an open ended one will round the head off.
The allen screws at the rear of the air filter cover are awkward to get at. A long handled or socket allen key is needed - 5mm I think. Fortunately the screws are captive so no risk of dropping them as above.
I reset the service interval prompt. I tinned the ends of two pieces of wire and stuck them in the appropriate slots then touched the other bared ends together immediately after turning the key - it worked!
I pumped about 5.8 litres of old oil out and replaced it gradually with 6.5 litres - just up to the max in the dipstick - with Filtrate 15 - 40 A3/B3 Mineral Oil otherwise sold as Homebase own brand.

Zeb · 3rd November 2007, 20:55

A useful set of tips! Thanks. But 15 / 40

....? Think I will stick with 0W40!

riso · 3rd November 2007, 20:58

i changed pollen filter, with no problems, 20 min job
Riso

Dave Goody · 3rd November 2007, 21:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zeb

A useful set of tips! Thanks. But 15 / 40

....? Think I will stick with 0W40!

I will stick with 10w40 manufacturers recommendation

JohnDotCom · 3rd November 2007, 22:39

The Diesel from 2005 says 0W40.

Dave Goody · 3rd November 2007, 22:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnDotCom

The Diesel from 2005 says 0W40.

Ahh, but mines a 2003 petrol :lol: Dave

JohnDotCom · 3rd November 2007, 22:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave Goody

Ahh, but mines a 2003 petrol :lol: Dave

Sorry, I was referring to the Original Post CDTi :lol:

sylvester · 4th November 2007, 09:14

Thanks for your comments - my car is a 2003 Diesel and the owners handbook specifies 10/40 or 15/40.
My next job was to replace the motor horn with a pair of Fiamm Fanfares but having seen Mikes recent article on whats involved in getting at the damn thing behind the grill I don't think I'll bother. Just as well I didn't ask EMS to do it for me - the £300 + labour charge would have come as a surprise though no doudt they would have warned me first!

cjmillsnun · 4th November 2007, 10:32

It isn't that hard...

Had the bumper off the ZT yesterday to fit a stebel Nautilus.... The hardest part of that was deciding where to locate the horn. In the end it was fitted to the subframe on the near side

GreyGhost · 4th November 2007, 10:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by cjmillsnun

It isn't that hard...

Had the bumper off the ZT yesterday to fit a stebel Nautilus.... The hardest part of that was deciding where to locate the horn. In the end it was fitted to the subframe on the near side

As with anything take your time and apply a bit of thought and patience. That's all it really takes. Spend too much time thinking beforehand and the job gets bigger and harder in your mind, until you actually start getting your hands dirty. Then you wonder what all the fuss was about.

Workshop manual helps.

3rd November 2007, 20:36	#1
sylvester Loves to post Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Rochester Kent Posts: 256 Thanks: 18 Thanked 22 Times in 9 Posts	DIY Service! I decided to do my own service on my 75 CDTi Tourer on this its third service at 50,000 miles. After consultation with the Forum I bought a Pela pump which made the job reasonably straight forward and a probably a lot cleaner! For anybody contemplating doing it thenselves then heres my two penneth. My first recommendation is to buy the Haynes manual - I would have had some trouble finding the two allen screws behind the air filter housing without the Haynes pictures. Buy an exact fitting socket to remove the oil filter cover. It is made of hard plastic, might take some effort to budge and a normal 'corners only' socket might well round those off before it comes undone. Sealey part no SX114 on Ebay - several suppliers. I replaced the pollen filter but found it necessary to remove the wipers and the lower windscreen seal in order to get at it - the "how to" guide suggests that it can be got out without doing this but I couldn't. In the process I dropped one of the wiper arm collets which ended up in the engine under tray and is still there - I bought another! Tip then - place a large piece of card over the motor and the gap between it and the screen seal before removing anything! The bolt holding the fuel filter strap was very tight - there isn't enough room to put a socket on it so use a ring spanner - an open ended one will round the head off. The allen screws at the rear of the air filter cover are awkward to get at. A long handled or socket allen key is needed - 5mm I think. Fortunately the screws are captive so no risk of dropping them as above. I reset the service interval prompt. I tinned the ends of two pieces of wire and stuck them in the appropriate slots then touched the other bared ends together immediately after turning the key - it worked! I pumped about 5.8 litres of old oil out and replaced it gradually with 6.5 litres - just up to the max in the dipstick - with Filtrate 15 - 40 A3/B3 Mineral Oil otherwise sold as Homebase own brand.

4th November 2007, 09:14	#8
sylvester Loves to post Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Rochester Kent Posts: 256 Thanks: 18 Thanked 22 Times in 9 Posts	More on oil Thanks for your comments - my car is a 2003 Diesel and the owners handbook specifies 10/40 or 15/40. My next job was to replace the motor horn with a pair of Fiamm Fanfares but having seen Mikes recent article on whats involved in getting at the damn thing behind the grill I don't think I'll bother. Just as well I didn't ask EMS to do it for me - the £300 + labour charge would have come as a surprise though no doudt they would have warned me first!

3rd November 2007, 20:55	#2
Zeb Banned MGZT V8 & ZTT 190+LPG Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 8,089 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	A useful set of tips! Thanks. But 15 / 40 ....? Think I will stick with 0W40!

3rd November 2007, 20:58	#3
riso Regular poster 75 conn Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 37 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	i changed pollen filter, with no problems, 20 min job Riso

3rd November 2007, 22:39	#5
JohnDotCom * Rover 75 FaceLift Tourer CDTi 170BHP Auto ConnSE 2005 Model Starlight Silver Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Abergele Posts: 28,735 Thanks: 0 Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts	The Diesel from 2005 says 0W40.

4th November 2007, 10:32	#9
cjmillsnun Gets stuck in Rover 75 Connoisseur CDTi & MGZT+ CDTi 135 Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Petersfield Posts: 787 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	It isn't that hard... Had the bumper off the ZT yesterday to fit a stebel Nautilus.... The hardest part of that was deciding where to locate the horn. In the end it was fitted to the subframe on the near side