Head gasket gone - Page 2

racing green rover · 19th February 2018, 17:52

Thanks for replys I'll see what everything is like when I take the head off
Many thanks

Al_B · 19th February 2018, 20:36

I agree with Lovel about the gasket choice. Only ever use the elastomer one. The MLS shim has no method of sealing against the face of the head other than contact pressure so the slightest imperfection will lead to oil and/or water loss. I know of a number of engines which weep coolant due to the lack of sealing.

Make sure that the liner stand-proud above the deck is right, as that will cause ongoing problems if there isn't enough load on the gasket fire ring.

The replacement oil rail has no more metal around the threads than the original version so the "higher clamping force" is a myth. It's a bit thicker along the webs but when you compare the amount of stiffness of the rail against the bearing ladder it's of insignificant benefit

I'm running a race engine with old style oil rail, old style gasket, original thermostat location, and liner shims to give around 6thou of stand-proud. The original parts do all work perfectly OK!

suzublu · 19th February 2018, 20:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by Al_B

I agree with Lovel about the gasket choice. Only ever use the elastomer one. The MLS shim has no method of sealing against the face of the head other than contact pressure so the slightest imperfection will lead to oil and/or water loss. I know of a number of engines which weep coolant due to the lack of sealing.

Make sure that the liner stand-proud above the deck is right, as that will cause ongoing problems if there isn't enough load on the gasket fire ring.

The replacement oil rail has no more metal around the threads than the original version so the "higher clamping force" is a myth. It's a bit thicker along the webs but when you compare the amount of stiffness of the rail against the bearing ladder it's of insignificant benefit

I'm running a race engine with old style oil rail, old style gasket, original thermostat location, and liner shims to give around 6thou of stand-proud. The original parts do all work perfectly OK!

That's precisely the info one needs when replacing gaskets on K series, thankyou

Mine is being done soon with the Payen elastomer gasket

minimutly · 19th February 2018, 21:36

Not sure I agree on the land rover/upgrade main bearing rail not adding anything. It undoubtedly is stiffer, whether this makes much difference is beyond my capability to answer, but you'd expect some clever bod at land rover to bolt the block to a rig to test its torsional stiffness?
I've also raced the early (stiffer apparently) block and later blocks with no issues, I have a vvc big valve unit on the bench which will have the uprated ladder fitted - wastingmy time? Dunno frankly.

19th February 2018, 17:52	#11
racing green rover Avid contributor MG ZT Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Westhoughton Bolton Posts: 233 Thanks: 153 Thanked 16 Times in 14 Posts	Thanks for replys I'll see what everything is like when I take the head off Many thanks

19th February 2018, 20:36	#12
Al_B Newbie ZT saloon Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Beds Posts: 28 Thanks: 0 Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts	I agree with Lovel about the gasket choice. Only ever use the elastomer one. The MLS shim has no method of sealing against the face of the head other than contact pressure so the slightest imperfection will lead to oil and/or water loss. I know of a number of engines which weep coolant due to the lack of sealing. Make sure that the liner stand-proud above the deck is right, as that will cause ongoing problems if there isn't enough load on the gasket fire ring. The replacement oil rail has no more metal around the threads than the original version so the "higher clamping force" is a myth. It's a bit thicker along the webs but when you compare the amount of stiffness of the rail against the bearing ladder it's of insignificant benefit I'm running a race engine with old style oil rail, old style gasket, original thermostat location, and liner shims to give around 6thou of stand-proud. The original parts do all work perfectly OK!

19th February 2018, 21:36	#14
minimutly Posted a thing or two mg zt Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: cardigan Posts: 1,087 Thanks: 28 Thanked 187 Times in 158 Posts	Not sure I agree on the land rover/upgrade main bearing rail not adding anything. It undoubtedly is stiffer, whether this makes much difference is beyond my capability to answer, but you'd expect some clever bod at land rover to bolt the block to a rig to test its torsional stiffness? I've also raced the early (stiffer apparently) block and later blocks with no issues, I have a vvc big valve unit on the bench which will have the uprated ladder fitted - wastingmy time? Dunno frankly.