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Old 14th September 2015, 15:46   #21
Edward Huggins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wuzerk View Post
The tickover can be adjusted in 10 rpm steps via a T4 but you should double check the actual revs via the onboard computer if you have one as the dial can be quite a way out. I spent more than two years trying each and every suggestion as to why I had vibration through the column and the seats until I found the answer........The drivers side HYDRAMOUNT......cured it instantly.
Thanks. Yes, this is one of the areas I have investigated as it seemed a likely potential cause. My engineer has inspected the driver's side HYDRAMOUNT and can see no form of perishing or Glycol seepage. What other indications are there that it may have failed or weakened? Do note, the vibration is noticeable whenever the car is out of gear - whether stationery or moving. The car has (only) done 60,600 miles. ED
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Old 14th September 2015, 16:36   #22
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I have read on here that even a visually perfect hydramount may be at fault; apparently the rubber hardens with age and transmits vibrations to the body of the car. It seems that there are several rubber components on our cars that need replacing around the 10yr mark. I have recently replaced the lower pulley on mine with only 35000 miles on the clock and am wondering if I should be looking to replace my hydramount too.
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Old 14th September 2015, 18:17   #23
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Unfortunately, replacing the hydramount failed to cure my vibration, but it obviously works on some cars.
Last year another member was saying bending the cat brackets would cure the same problem. Maybe it did on his but not mine. Obviously, different cures for different cars.
I did ask one T4 guru about altering the tickover revs and he said playing with the revs on an auto would be on my own head.
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Old 14th September 2015, 19:38   #24
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Have you tried loosening the hydromaount metalwork's fixings, shifting the engine a little on a jack and then bolting everything up again...?

just shifting the tension on the mount may help to "pre load" it...

I say this as I had to remove my mount to get access and when I put it back the engine, although not to your extent did seem to vibrate more...
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Old 15th September 2015, 08:57   #25
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Default Vibrations

Quote:
Originally Posted by Edward Huggins View Post
Thanks. Yes, this is one of the areas I have investigated as it seemed a likely potential cause. My engineer has inspected the driver's side HYDRAMOUNT and can see no form of perishing or Glycol seepage. What other indications are there that it may have failed or weakened? Do note, the vibration is noticeable whenever the car is out of gear - whether stationery or moving. The car has (only) done 60,600 miles. ED
Of course there are several possible causes of the vibration problems but, to me, the fact that your problem is worse with the car out of gear (your handle
doesn't say if yours is an auto or manual?) points again to top engine mount
deterioration because, in gear, the extra drag would dampen down any excessive engine movement. At tickover on my car I could feel the tickover vibes very strongly through the front bumper but not,strangely,
on the drivers inner wing to which the top engine mount is ultimately connected. There was no sign of leakage or deterioration on my Hydramount until I removed it when it looked like this! You can see that the rubber looks old,stiff, and splitting apart. Jacking the engine up would have exposed the splits
once the weight of the engine was not on them.


Last edited by wuzerk; 15th September 2015 at 09:00..
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Old 15th September 2015, 11:11   #26
Edward Huggins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wuzerk View Post
Of course there are several possible causes of the vibration problems but, to me, the fact that your problem is worse with the car out of gear (your handle
doesn't say if yours is an auto or manual?) points again to top engine mount
deterioration because, in gear, the extra drag would dampen down any excessive engine movement. At tickover on my car I could feel the tickover vibes very strongly through the front bumper but not,strangely,
on the drivers inner wing to which the top engine mount is ultimately connected. There was no sign of leakage or deterioration on my Hydramount until I removed it when it looked like this! You can see that the rubber looks old,stiff, and splitting apart. Jacking the engine up would have exposed the splits
once the weight of the engine was not on them.

Thanks for this and the very revealing photo of the mount shows it as looking terrible! I'll look into the suggestion for jacking up the engine to better examine its mountings. by the way, my car is Manual. Thanks again to all who have replied. ED
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Old 15th September 2015, 19:45   #27
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Default HYdramount

Edward: it is necessary to undo the top nut on the Hydramount by about
half an inch to relieve the pressure on the rubber when the engine is jacked up.
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Old 21st December 2015, 19:05   #28
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I've been through all this, changed the Hydramount to no avail!

I think it's play in the top steering mount, if I apply pressure to the steering wheel, I can stop the vibration. Mine is worse at exactly 2000 rpm, this engine/car combination is known to produce vibration around the 1800/2000 range. When I get time and the weather improves, I'm going to remove the cowling and see what can be done. I'll report back.
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Old 22nd December 2015, 09:58   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wuzerk View Post
As I already posted, fitting the steering damper on my CDT auto made no difference at all but if you do try then you should find that the holes are already drilled and threaded for it(they were on mine)

My 01 Tourer had a steering damper from new, but I recently changed the steering wheel for a BNIB wheel which did not have the mounting holes for the damper, the result is that I too can detect no difference without the damper.
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Old 22nd December 2015, 10:12   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vindaloo View Post
My 01 Tourer had a steering damper from new, but I recently changed the steering wheel for a BNIB wheel which did not have the mounting holes for the damper, the result is that I too can detect no difference without the damper.
if you don't have a vibration issue to begin with I doubt it would...?
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