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Old 16th January 2020, 11:20   #11
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Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
Richard,

I agree with Trikey but for a different reason. The pipe run across the top of the fuel tank won't be corroded simply because it's never in contact with rainwater or road salt so there's no need to replace it.

If you're vigilant with the surface rust on the short visible pipes in the front wheel arches and those running towards the rear wheels and treat them accordingly, you won't have a problem there either.


Simon
Half a job Simon, most unlike you......

Generally speaking the worst affected areas of the fore and aft pipes are the parts where the come down the bulkhead, at the front, the underfloor sections, and where the pipe runs along the chassis member at the rear of the car at the point it connects to the rear flexible pipework.

So if the pipe is corroded to excess in the first area, it will be corroded to excess in the second area also, and my experience has shown this to be the case time and time again.

However as Simon points out, the section above the fuel tank will be spotless, so it will make a good pattern for the new pipework to be fashioned from.

Don't mistakenly crop the pipe forwards of the tank, it is simply not worth it.

I can replace both sides with the car reversed up a set of standard ramps without difficulty, and this includes dropping the tank to do so, and doing the job properly

Brian
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Old 16th January 2020, 11:49   #12
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Righteo then!

I've got 'till March to sort it all out.

I'll only get chance to do it at the weekends and when it's dry, so bit's and bobs when I can.

Thanks very much everyone for your advice!
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Old 16th January 2020, 12:14   #13
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I've been quoted £100 by a local chap that does our cars. Chris Marshall. Will be getting it done when it comes out of hiding!
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Old 16th January 2020, 12:26   #14
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I've been quoted £100 by a local chap that does our cars. Chris Marshall. Will be getting it done when it comes out of hiding!
That's a good price, how many pipes is that to replace?
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Old 16th January 2020, 13:55   #15
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Fair enough.

I'm thinking about having a go myself, how bad a job is it to remove the fuel tank?
My tank strap looks pretty cruddy as well. I think I read somewhere that stainless steel straps are available from somewhere?
Removing the fuel tank isn't really the hard part - it's getting all the hoses reconnected and back into their retaining clips that's the tricky bit. The tank has to be almost touching the floorpan before the hoses will reach, by which time there's barely any room to get your hand up behind it to guide everything to the right place. (NB. I did mine on my own with the car on blocks - it'd be a lot easier on a lift with two people).




I changed the strap for a stainless one - bought it on eBay. It was made by Garry Bartram from Chesterfield - I don't know if he does them any more. It's a proper job - much more solid than the original factory ones.

Btw, I wouldn't re-route the pipes if I were you. They've taken them through the tank area to keep them as far away from the road as possible and reduce the risk of something smacking into them. It wouldn't take much of a whack to crush one (not good ).

Last edited by Blink; 16th January 2020 at 13:59..
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Old 16th January 2020, 14:14   #16
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Removing the fuel tank isn't really the hard part - it's getting all the hoses reconnected and back into their retaining clips that's the tricky bit. The tank has to be almost touching the floorpan before the hoses will reach, by which time there's barely any room to get your hand up behind it to guide everything to the right place. (NB. I did mine on my own with the car on blocks - it'd be a lot easier on a lift with two people).




I changed the strap for a stainless one - bought it on eBay. It was made by Garry Bartram from Chesterfield - I don't know if he does them any more. It's a proper job - much more solid than the original factory ones.

Btw, I wouldn't re-route the pipes if I were you. They've taken them through the tank area to keep them as far away from the road as possible and reduce the risk of something smacking into them. It wouldn't take much of a whack to crush one (not good ).
You don't need to fully remove the tank in order that the brake pipes can be replaced, it is simply a case of lowering it down and resting it on the exhaust pipe.

The only thing that needs to be removed is the filler neck tube, and that's a jubilee clip

Brian
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Old 16th January 2020, 14:28   #17
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Getting mine done at the end of the month, along with some new arms by the local MG Rover Specialist (Turbo Dave), and he will do the job very well, done a set on one of my previous MGs, and he will charge around £100 to do the brake pipes, so well worth it

Stu
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Old 16th January 2020, 14:45   #18
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Getting mine done at the end of the month, along with some new arms by the local MG Rover Specialist (Turbo Dave), and he will do the job very well, done a set on one of my previous MGs, and he will charge around £100 to do the brake pipes, so well worth it

Stu
Are you sure your's need doing Stu? Surely tucked up in that nice warm man cave, with carpet underfoot and being polished to a high sheen should mean they never need replacing
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Old 16th January 2020, 15:29   #19
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Are you sure your's need doing Stu? Surely tucked up in that nice warm man cave, with carpet underfoot and being polished to a high sheen should mean they never need replacing
Chris

Yes Mate, need doing, as car is now 16 years old, and the MGF and the XKR live in the Man Cave with underfloor carpets and covers on them

Maybe you have not yet seen the XKR

https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...58&postcount=1

Stu
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Old 16th January 2020, 16:02   #20
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Are you sure your's need doing Stu? Surely tucked up in that nice warm man cave, with carpet underfoot and being polished to a high sheen should mean they never need replacing


Stu’s brake pipes need replacing as they are now wafer thin due to all the polishing they have had...
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