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Old 21st March 2021, 14:15   #11
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Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
I'm working on mine at the moment John and I would say not, as there's the little matter of the inner balljoint attaching the arm to the subframe. I very much doubt that you'd be able to release that with the bush in place.

Simon
correct simon. even arnold swartzennagar couldnt do that......
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Old 21st March 2021, 14:24   #12
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... also a set of aviation spanners ...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bergen-Gear...y%2C158&sr=8-3
Yes, I considered the aviation spanners, beautiful things but they're flat so the lower arm appears to get in the way. Did you find a way around that Steve?

Simon
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Old 21st March 2021, 14:29   #13
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Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
I'm working on mine at the moment John and I would say not, as there's the little matter of the inner balljoint attaching the arm to the subframe. I very much doubt that you'd be able to release that with the bush in place.

Simon
By simply slackening the bush holding bolts but leaving them in place the arm can then be lowered enough to let the inner ball joint to move away from the frame.

The bush holding bolts are VERY easy to get at if you have the use of a pit.--Lying under the car however means you need arms like a gorilla to undo them.---
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Old 21st March 2021, 15:45   #14
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the last time i did mine i seem to remember lifting the arm out of the subframe on top as it has to clear the top of the subframe. and dont forget the length of the taper on the subframe balljoint and thread is pretty long . ... but hey ho !!
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Old 21st March 2021, 15:54   #15
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the front arb bushes give a restrictive access. so leaving them in position does make it harder especially when laid on your back with restricted arm power. i bought a swivel ended spanner/ socket type spanner and ground the end face of the socket by 2mm and it fits like a glove. as far as torque is concerned on reused bolts with probable oil or so on the threads ... just tighten them as tight as you can as i dont think locktight will help much.
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Old 22nd March 2021, 07:06   #16
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Yes, I considered the aviation spanners, beautiful things but they're flat so the lower arm appears to get in the way. Did you find a way around that Steve?

Simon
Simon

My spanners are quite old, flat at one side but with the depth of the hexagon are offset at the other .so with a bit of flexing can get initial access to crack the bolt ,I use them along side a good set of offset combo spanners

The front bolts from the outside , the rear bolts from underneath .
If struggling for a fit why not look for a offset combination spanner as they tend to be only half the offset of a ring spanner

Steve

Last edited by TourerSteve; 22nd March 2021 at 07:09..
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Old 22nd March 2021, 08:25   #17
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Yes, I considered the aviation spanners, beautiful things but they're flat so the lower arm appears to get in the way. Did you find a way around that Steve?

Simon

Flexible head 18mm ratchet spanner works a treat.
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Old 22nd March 2021, 08:40   #18
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Flexible head 18mm ratchet spanner works a treat.
Not on my car unfortunately Andy.

Simon
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Old 22nd March 2021, 09:02   #19
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Quote:
Quote:
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Yes, I considered the aviation spanners, beautiful things but they're flat so the lower arm appears to get in the way. Did you find a way around that Steve?

Simon
Simon.
You need to adapt the aviation spanner as below.

1

Heat it up and bend in increments

2

These swivels also help with a 18mm socket on the end,
3

4

5

And Flexible head 18mm ratchet spanner.
6

To help crack the front bolt use two spanner with a sump removal tool in between the two spanners for leverage.
7

8

9

Put the bolt back in by hand to make sure you do not cross thread the bolt.
10


Remove the arms with the car on ramps.
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Old 22nd March 2021, 22:45   #20
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I really like your custom bendy spanner Steve!
The sump hexagon key is a good idea too. Thanks very much for a great post.

Simon
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