Alternator testing

ceedy · 22nd March 2021, 11:22

Any ways to test an alternator off the car.
Wife's zr has stopped charging, it's still under warranty , but supplier is making a few conditions to return so want to check it's duff before returning..cheers..

Ducati750cc · 22nd March 2021, 14:31

What conditions is the supplier making seeing as it is under warranty, they can be tested off the car but best done on a jig that starter motor / alternator re-conditioners use ( have you one locally ), most will test it for a fee that is refundable if you buy or have your unit re-conditioned, or you just pay the fee for the test.

It will test the charge rate, max. output, output under load, diode pack for ripple, regulator, brush arcing, coil integrity etc.at various speeds.

It could be tested at home by making a jury rig and battery to enable you to run it up from min to to max speed by some means, a DMM will tell you the voltage only, that's if there is an output, you will also need to measure the amps output and apply a load up to its max, the diode pack ripple, if any can be checked by some multimeters, a scope, or with such as the Midtronics battery tester I have.

All these parameters need to be checked and testing at max revs when supplying its max. load ( at a guess 120A ) takes a fair bit of power.

I hope that this, although not supplying a definitive answer, gives an idea of what's involved.

P.s. You may sometimes find that some workshops who repair injectors and pumps also do rotating electrical equipment testing and repairs.

ceedy · 22nd March 2021, 15:57

got to send it back ( at cost) waiting 6 weeks to be sent from the supplier to be tested etc.. then it may get replaced or if found to be ok I pay again to get it back. so wanted to give it a cursory check before returning..

only 15 mths into a 3 yrs warranty

Systems are just charge light on and no battery voltage change when running

Was going to mount it in my lathe and can then run it up to about 3000 rpm.

C

COLVERT · 22nd March 2021, 21:58

If it has a warranty then don't mess about with it or you'll get blamed for damaging it. Just take it back on the car.

Taking it off was a waste of time cos it can't be checked in your hand.---

ceedy · 22nd March 2021, 22:10

the supplier was mail order and it a very long way away ..
plus car is on sorn

Quote:

Originally Posted by COLVERT

If it has a warranty then don't mess about with it or you'll get blamed for damaging it. Just take it back on the car.

Taking it off was a waste of time cos it can't be checked in your hand.---

SD1too · 23rd March 2021, 07:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by ceedy

got to send it back ( at cost) waiting 6 weeks to be sent from the supplier to be tested etc.. then it may get replaced or if found to be ok I pay again to get it back.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ceedy

the supplier was mail order and it a very long way away ..

Hmmm. Don't waste your time and money Chris. Put it down to experience and buy a remanufactured reputable brand face-to-face from a local motor factor.

Simon

ceedy · 23rd March 2021, 08:19

this is a Bosch and cost my 68 quids ..

Quote:

Originally Posted by SD1too

Hmmm. Don't waste your time and money Chris. Put it down to experience and buy a remanufactured reputable brand face-to-face from a local motor factor.

Simon

patrolman pete · 23rd March 2021, 08:43

For the hassle involved and the fact it is off the car , I’d probably just take it to an auto electrician and ask them to test it and repair as required. Probably a faulty rectifier or such so a quick fix. I only buy small service parts from mail order as big heavy items such as batteries aren’t easy to return. I’d rather be able to dump a part on the local motor factors desk and say swap this , there’s my receipt !

22nd March 2021, 11:22	#1
ceedy This is my second home All Trophy Blue ,ZT260#50 , ZT CDTI Auto, ZR105+ and 1.8T Firefrost spoiling the Set . Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Nr Sherborne But in Somerset.. Posts: 6,076 Thanks: 916 Thanked 1,214 Times in 768 Posts	Alternator testing Any ways to test an alternator off the car. Wife's zr has stopped charging, it's still under warranty , but supplier is making a few conditions to return so want to check it's duff before returning..cheers.. __________________ The Three Bloo's Wifey's Zr105, MY CDTI & 260 #50 and Number One sons 1.8T in Firefrost When I were a lad Zero to 142 in 10.25 secs at the Pod on my Blown Norton. 210 Kart Champ in 70's

22nd March 2021, 14:31	#2
Ducati750cc Loves to post Rover75 tourer Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Ashton Posts: 428 Thanks: 121 Thanked 206 Times in 145 Posts	What conditions is the supplier making seeing as it is under warranty, they can be tested off the car but best done on a jig that starter motor / alternator re-conditioners use ( have you one locally ), most will test it for a fee that is refundable if you buy or have your unit re-conditioned, or you just pay the fee for the test. It will test the charge rate, max. output, output under load, diode pack for ripple, regulator, brush arcing, coil integrity etc.at various speeds. It could be tested at home by making a jury rig and battery to enable you to run it up from min to to max speed by some means, a DMM will tell you the voltage only, that's if there is an output, you will also need to measure the amps output and apply a load up to its max, the diode pack ripple, if any can be checked by some multimeters, a scope, or with such as the Midtronics battery tester I have. All these parameters need to be checked and testing at max revs when supplying its max. load ( at a guess 120A ) takes a fair bit of power. I hope that this, although not supplying a definitive answer, gives an idea of what's involved. P.s. You may sometimes find that some workshops who repair injectors and pumps also do rotating electrical equipment testing and repairs. __________________ Common sense isn't a gift, it's a punishment because you have to deal with everyone who doesn't have it. Last edited by Ducati750cc; 22nd March 2021 at 14:48..

22nd March 2021, 15:57	#3
ceedy This is my second home All Trophy Blue ,ZT260#50 , ZT CDTI Auto, ZR105+ and 1.8T Firefrost spoiling the Set . Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Nr Sherborne But in Somerset.. Posts: 6,076 Thanks: 916 Thanked 1,214 Times in 768 Posts	got to send it back ( at cost) waiting 6 weeks to be sent from the supplier to be tested etc.. then it may get replaced or if found to be ok I pay again to get it back. so wanted to give it a cursory check before returning.. only 15 mths into a 3 yrs warranty Systems are just charge light on and no battery voltage change when running Was going to mount it in my lathe and can then run it up to about 3000 rpm. C __________________ The Three Bloo's Wifey's Zr105, MY CDTI & 260 #50 and Number One sons 1.8T in Firefrost When I were a lad Zero to 142 in 10.25 secs at the Pod on my Blown Norton. 210 Kart Champ in 70's

22nd March 2021, 21:58	#4
COLVERT This is my second home R75 Saloon. Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: France/or Devon. Posts: 14,003 Thanks: 3,851 Thanked 2,167 Times in 1,816 Posts	If it has a warranty then don't mess about with it or you'll get blamed for damaging it. Just take it back on the car. Taking it off was a waste of time cos it can't be checked in your hand.---

23rd March 2021, 08:43	#8
patrolman pete Posted a thing or two Rover 75 club se tourer CDT and a Connoisseur SE Diesel Auto Saloon Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Houghton - le - Spring Posts: 1,418 Thanks: 618 Thanked 333 Times in 197 Posts	For the hassle involved and the fact it is off the car , I’d probably just take it to an auto electrician and ask them to test it and repair as required. Probably a faulty rectifier or such so a quick fix. I only buy small service parts from mail order as big heavy items such as batteries aren’t easy to return. I’d rather be able to dump a part on the local motor factors desk and say swap this , there’s my receipt !