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Old 25th March 2021, 21:06   #21
COLVERT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macafee2 View Post
thanks I meant out of the top of the master cylinder

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Old 27th March 2021, 21:20   #22
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Hello everyone


The mechanic doesn't work on Friday but I checked the level in the master cylinder with him today as advised and the level is dropping exactly as you predicted. There are now also signs of fluid on the bottom of the bellhousing.


He prefers LUK clutch parts, is ordering the slave cylinder and will begin the job next week.


It's been frustrating but your advice has been invaluable when our spirits have been low. I'll report on the final outcome when he has finished.


Thank you again for your support.
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Old 27th March 2021, 22:08   #23
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Order a slave guide tube as well, a lot of folk neglect this part when changing the clutch.
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Old 30th March 2021, 14:46   #24
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Hello Trikey
Thanks for the advice, I called the mechanic yesterday and advised him to order the slave guide tube.
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Old 26th April 2021, 15:00   #25
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Hello everyone


I had hoped my last input on this subject would be to report on success...


Unfortunately this has not been the case and I wonder if any of you can offer further advice please? There was an initial delay as it took the mechanic time to create the space in his schedule to bring the car inside and change the slave cylinder.


He replaced it and at the same said the old unit was in very poor condition, as though great, undue, force had been applied to it. He cleaned the shaft and I left it with him to fit the gearbox etc. (expecting a fairly quick phone call).


And then:


He fitted it and still could not get any hydraulic pressure in the system. He connected one of the (two spare) master cylinders we now have to try and diagnose the issue by attaching it directly to the slave i.e. missing out the new one fitted in the car; but with no success. The "spare" has pressure as it releases a fair amount of fluid when not connected and pushed by hand. He also changed the master over again in situ in case there was a problem he had missed.


He is highly experienced but totally baffled; and is taking the gearbox out again to see if he can spot anything. He is also losing work as a "one-man band" with space for a single car and my wife and I need the car back as we are fearing the worst for its future.


As a novice, I wondered if there could be a problem with a faulty pipe or union or if there is a potential issue with the gearbox or clutch as indicated by the poor condition of the old slave cylinder?


I apologise for asking again but if you have heard of anything similar or have ideas about how he should proceed at this stage I would appreciate your help please.
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Old 27th April 2021, 07:26   #26
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1 has the complete hydraulic system been bled to the point of no air bubbles?

2 Does the master cylinder empty or nearly empty of hydraulic fluid?

3 With the hydraulic pipe split at the connector on the engine bay what happens when you push the clutch pedal down, does it go solid and then down towards the floor?

4 what happens when you push the clutch pedal down?

If the gearbox is being removed seriously consider replacing the shaft the slave sits on as referred to in post 23


If 2, either not bled properly or you have a leak
If 3, master cylinder has a failed internal seal allowing hydraulic fluid when under pressure to by pass seal and remain in the master. When off the car this fault may not show due to insufficient back pressure and the seal being good enough to push fluid out of master and onto the floor but not good enough when under great pressure.

good luck


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Old 27th April 2021, 07:29   #27
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Master cylinders come apart easily enough - just pull the clip out around the pushrod, so worth stripping one down and thoroughly cleaning it out as they can get gummed up with debris from the seals which stops them working.

Once that is done fill it with fluid and press the push rod in with it not connected to the slave cylinder. It should lock up completely, and if it does then it you have proved it is OK to use.

Reconnect it to the slave cylinder and then try to press the push rod down. If the clutch doesn't dis-engage then the the problem is on the gearbox side. With the gearbox off and the clutch stripped down he can check that the friction disc slides up and down the gearbox splined input shaft easily (a smear of grease should be applied to the splines). Also check that the friction disc is the correct way round. If that all checks out then test the slave cylinder off the car by connecting it to a master cylinder and seeing if it moves when the rod is depressed, and if not suspect a blockage somewhere or a faulty quick connection. To refit the slave cylinder after testing it he will need to clip it back into its rear position so a small screwdriver or similar each side to ease the clips apart when testing it should ensure they don't break off.
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Old 27th April 2021, 10:52   #28
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Thanks to both of you, it's good to have a logical series of actions that he can refer to.



I've printed your replies and will drop them in to him this afternoon.


Thank you as ever for your help.
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