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24th May 2018, 11:49 | #51 |
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Hi, I think its when you are fitting rubber bush type suspension joint where the rubber bush is under tension you need to have the weight on the joint before you fully tighten it up.
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24th May 2018, 13:32 | #52 | ||
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I knew where you were coming from and did not take it as you were questioning how I did it, I too have read drop the car onto it's wheels and tighten up the drop links, it is I have never done it that way others may have I am sure both methods are good Arctic.
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24th May 2018, 13:57 | #53 |
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A job I will be doing this BH ready for MOT in July.
Sure it’s been said but trimming the top thread back is an absolute must do!! Makes replacement a piece of cake. And let’s face it - it’s virtually an annual job for the MOT. - tho I am considering getting high spec adjustable ones next time - set at standard height- just to see if they last a bit longer. |
24th May 2018, 16:33 | #54 |
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Drop link joints have a 360 rotation as well as the angular movement .. they will find they own optimum position under load .
so tighten them up any old way and any position but easiest is both suspension arms in a similar position . Not so for bonded rubber joints/bushes which need to be close to the operating position before tightening up . Stop over thinking stuff ... C.
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26th May 2018, 22:37 | #55 |
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I tightened my drop link top joint with the wheels off the car, then nipped up the bottom,dropped the car to the ground( with the wheels on), and then tightened the bottom joint. Don’t know what the difference is but in the works manual it says to drop the car onto its wheels before torquing the drop link nuts up ? I, like Steve put extra grease into the rubber covers, and use Castrol CL grease.This grease has the propensity to (stick like sh/yte).
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27th May 2018, 00:20 | #56 |
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It's nonsense.
There is no way the front drop links have any benefit from being done up under the weight of the car. There might be an argument for the rears however, with the change of geometry combined with the rubber bushings in one half of the link, but for the fronts, just lol. |
27th May 2018, 01:57 | #57 | |
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Thank you for such a comprehensive guide one to be printed off and kept for people who need lots of guidance, also reference for those who know how but want reassurance. Many thanks and keep up the good work Alan Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
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27th May 2018, 16:17 | #58 |
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The discussion on how to tighten the drop links on fitting new ones is fraught with many if’s and but’s. I do not profess to know if the reason that the lower nut should be torqued up with the weight of the car on the floor, or not, is because if you change them, notice the differing angle of the lower drop link joints when the car has been lowered to the floor, compared with when it is on the jack. Just saying, because there must, i would think, be a reason it is in the works manual.Or perhaps that is just the recognised way that that said they should be done. Nothing technical.
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8th October 2019, 13:12 | #59 |
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I have found the time today to replenish the photo's on this thread, quite a few to go yet, I will try and do one each day cheers Arctic.
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8th October 2019, 17:28 | #60 |
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I need to get this done soon. Can't make my mind up with Meyle or try some of the new DMGRS ones. Garage want £60 to fit whichever I buy, though.
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