How to dismantle the bearing from the power steering pump shaft?

[biggles-1]

Originally Posted by vitesse

Thanks Nils, think your detective work might benefit others who have asked about gaskets in the past. I remember Genpk down in Australia managed to source one from his Land Rover outlet but never got a part no. The actual pumps are expensive to buy, so your efforts identifying gasket sets/renovating pumps might prove extremely useful

Mike

Evening Vitesse,

To be honest if I had known three weeks ago, what I know today, I would have bought a factory refurbished pump :-).

However it is like Ducati750cc write, things like this challenge me and I think "I bet I can fix it" and most times I do :-). In hindsight, sometimes the time and money was not worth spending but I have learnt a lot along the way.

Stay safe! / Nils

[biggles-1]

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

You are right there Nils - despite working for Tetra Pak for many years and visiting Lund and Malmo many times my Swedish is pitiful - my first visit to Sweden was the port of Ornskoldsvik, and to this day I can't get the pronunciation right.

I'm lucky I have an SKF puller kit with fingers that fit inside the bearing making it easy to pull off.

Evening Mike Noc,

Then you are almost a Suede, so do not give up learning Swedish :-).

Lucky you having a puller that could fit into such a narrow gap, I do not. However I will manage by using the measurements I've taken. I belive that the critical installation is the flange and bearing position, not the other end of the shaft, The flange end do have an impact on how the belt will run over the pulley.

Have a nice evening / Nils

[biggles-1]

Yesterday I put the pieces together on pump # 1 and I am satisfied.

I had to recalculate some measurements since I missed the fact that the bearing was not even with the housing edge. The raised edge in the bottom of the flange does also partly goes into the housing. We talk millimetres or parts their off, but in the end had to be taken into consideration.

I kept the visible gap between the flange and housing to 1,3 mm, as seen in the photo. Please make sure to use a feeler gauge when pressing the shaft with the flange into the bearing, to avoid pressing it in to far. If you go to far, you will have to dismantle the shaft again and buy a new bearing! I pressed the flange into the shaft, leaving 2,8 mm of the shaft on the outside.

I kept the same quality of the spare parts, that was originally installed. That is bearing with special heat resistant grease, oil seal in FPM/Viton, O-rings in FPM/Viton and special gasket with yellow FPM/Viton sealing. I did not use Nitril/NBR to make it cheaper but not hot heat resitant. I could not find oil seals in the original dimension (15x24x6) made in FPM/Viton, so I went for 15x24x7 in FPM/Viton and they seem to be working and there is space.

I have trawled the internet for information and have found surprisingly little. It seems that the industry keeps its secrets to themself and that not many have done their own PAS renovation. I can just confirm that it is doable, if you find your source of spare parts and have some patience.

This concludes my little project and I hope the info comes in handy for someone else. All measurements, materials and actions I mention is with reference to my own work with two pump models (looks to me exactly the same). See it as inspiration, no guarantees given :-).

Regards Nils