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Old 4th October 2019, 11:12   #11
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Originally Posted by Canonite View Post
I was going to suggest checking the oil level. They can get a little tappety at the top end if oil starved. Hopefully a top up will rectify it
-If an engine becomes---Oil Starved---the first thing it will do is seize up.--
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Old 4th October 2019, 11:13   #12
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Timing belts were done 50k miles ago and I really.have no idea about the idler or tensioner The oil was changed just 1k miles ago with the right amount of motul 10w40
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Old 4th October 2019, 11:21   #13
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Timing belts were done 50k miles ago and I really.have no idea about the idler or tensioner ...
It's therefore possible that the idler and tensioner could have covered in excess of 50,000 miles. Mine exhibited bearing noise at 90,000 miles and once renewed, the engine sounded smoother and quieter than it ever had before. I would therefore recommend that you start with the ancillary belt and take it from there.

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Old 4th October 2019, 19:20   #14
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@SD1too, checked the oil the way that you told me and it's perfectly at level, also added a hidraulic lifter additive and drove about 30 miles and nothing has changed... So I therefore think too that this may be the tensioner or idler as you previously told me. On this occasion I will replace the whole distribution kit, and I have a few questions about it. In order to do this job properly, what are the things that one should give more attention to? And also, which parts should be replaced to have the complete distribution properly done?

Also, until replacing the distribution, is it a temporary fix that would make this tapping noise go away? It really kills me

And can somebody explain how that noise really happens and if it can damage something further if left unattended?
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Old 4th October 2019, 20:40   #15
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@SD1too, checked the oil the way that you told me and it's perfectly at level, also added a hidraulic lifter additive and drove about 30 miles and nothing has changed... So I therefore think too that this may be the tensioner or idler as you previously told me. On this occasion I will replace the whole distribution kit, and I have a few questions about it. In order to do this job properly, what are the things that one should give more attention to? And also, which parts should be replaced to have the complete distribution properly done?

Also, until replacing the distribution, is it a temporary fix that would make this tapping noise go away? It really kills me

And can somebody explain how that noise really happens and if it can damage something further if left unattended?
To do the job properly is to fit the complete kit.

The noise will only go away when you find and replace the part making it.

The dipstick is a guide to the amount of oil in the sump. You will not be struck by lightning if you accidently let it fall below the lower level mark.-- in fact you would be really surprised how low it could get without ruining your engine.

This talk in previous posts about not enough pressure to fill the tappets does not make sense. If the pressure fell like that then the oil light on the dash would light up. Any air gaps in the oil train circulating in the engine will immediately put on the oil low warning light.

Exactly like air in the brake fluid lines would immediately light up the brakes warning on the dash.

Both oil and brake fluid systems must NEVER have air in them.
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Old 4th October 2019, 21:41   #16
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And can somebody explain how that noise really happens and if it can damage something further if left unattended?
The noise occurs when the tensioner and/or idler pulleys rotate with abnormal friction and/or exert incorrect force upon the belt. If left unattended the belt is at risk of breaking.

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Old 5th October 2019, 09:43   #17
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Just to eliminate the canister purge valve, disconnect the plug and see if it persists. The purge solenoid valve is mounted on the rh end of the upper inlet manifold as you look at the engine.

The purge valve only clicks in specific circumstances and usually at tickover and is similar to a bad tappet. Your sound seems more rapid but it's worth checking.

TC
You might be able to confirm/rule out the purge valve using a listening stick. Put one end in your ear (cover end of stick with thumb) and the other end on the purge valve - the volume of the tick should increase dramatically if it's the valve.
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Old 5th October 2019, 12:28   #18
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You might be able to confirm/rule out the purge valve using a listening stick.

Already eliminated - see last line of Post 7.


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Old 5th October 2019, 18:02   #19
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I closely listened as far as I could reach with my ear towards the idler and the tensioner and the noise really doesn't seem to come from there Although I really hope that it comes indeed from one of those as it is anyways time to replace the belts
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Old 6th October 2019, 06:56   #20
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Would also put your ear to the exhaust down pipe manifold gasket whilst you are at it.
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