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Old 27th October 2019, 01:55   #21
phenonix
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Thanks both vitesse, Arctic and Simon, I take apart again and have a look.
Can I ask when the fan is started does should it start with a jolt/ kick?
My just starts slowly and builds up speed
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Old 27th October 2019, 08:20   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phenonix View Post
Can I ask when the fan is started does should it start with a jolt/ kick?
No Joe, it should not start with a jolt or kick when fitted to the car, neither should it start slowly and build-up speed, but perhaps you should post a sound recording so that we can hear what you mean.

Check all electrical connections including your soldered braid (you did solder them didn't you?). Also, as Vitesse says and with the help of Arctic's picture, look carefully at the condition of the commutator. If the fan was left for a long period after it first gave trouble and a brush wore so badly that its spring popped out of the holder and contacted the commutator, you will have irreparable damage.

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Old 27th October 2019, 08:22   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phenonix View Post
Thanks both vitesse, Arctic and Simon, I take apart again and have a look.
Can I ask when the fan is started does should it start with a jolt/ kick?
My just starts slowly and builds up speed
When it starts at slow speed it's a smooth but powerful force, not something gradual - you'll see when you've fixed yours

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Old 27th October 2019, 10:47   #24
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i did not solder them as I did not have a 300w soldering iron, so I used the method of joining the using the connectors in the original how to, no good?
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Old 27th October 2019, 11:39   #25
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i did not solder them as I did not have a 300w soldering iron, so I used the method of joining the using the connectors in the original how to, no good?
Works for me, I crimp them too, done about eight so far. The first one I did I soldered but used lots of solder (on Stocktake's recommendation) and it still works fine some five years on.

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Old 27th October 2019, 19:16   #26
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i did not solder them as I did not have a 300w soldering iron, so I used the method of joining the using the connectors in the original how to, no good?
I generally dislike crimped joints. It's a process adopted for speed rather than reliability and low electrical resistance. My preference is for soldering, particularly when dealing with braided conductors which move in service. You don't need anything like a 300 watt soldering iron. I used a 35w and it was fine. But sometimes it's necessary to buy the best tool for the job. It's an investment because you will use it again.

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Old 29th October 2019, 05:34   #27
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Had a look again and cleaned those gaps with a hobby knife, I think that did the trick as it starts straight away, no gradual speed up.
But fan is still rattling, if I spin it manually it is ok, but once on it rattles, any suggestions?
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Old 29th October 2019, 06:39   #28
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Could a worn commutator cause the blades to wobble a bit?
I’d like to post a photo of mine, but it’s been so long since I did I cannot see any options to do so.
All the springs are perfect, there was a bit of brushes still on two, but my commutator is scored a bit.
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Old 29th October 2019, 09:02   #29
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Had a look again and cleaned those gaps with a hobby knife, I think that did the trick as it starts straight away, no gradual speed up.
But fan is still rattling, if I spin it manually it is ok, but once on it rattles, any suggestions?
Some improvement then sorry but don't recognise your "rattle" unless due to the uneven commutator the brushes need some time to bed in, they can sound a bit rough after brush change. Try running the fan for an hour or more and see if things improve.

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Old 29th October 2019, 09:12   #30
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Check that the fan blade is fully secure, sometime over time the tags on the rear wear down so blade could wobble, use a 15mm thin wall socket on the front nut and turn the blade anti-clock wise to make sure it's completely tight, you can even then drill a 3mm hole and add a grub screw.

Purple marks where to drill and add self tapper securing screw, if needed ?
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