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Old 9th February 2018, 14:39   #201
Pruts3r
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1999 Rover 75 Sterling - Pewter Grey - Aubergine Leather & 1985 Rover 3500 Vitesse - Targa Red

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Still going strong... level stays the same and temp stays perfect.... fingers crossed
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'99 Rover 75 sterling 2.5 auto in Pewter grey with Aubergine interior
•Born on Wednesday the 23rd of June 1999 @ 11:35:32
•The 6367th 75 to be produced.
•The 214th Pewter Grey 75 out of 442.
•Probably one of a handful Pewters with Aubergine.
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Old 9th February 2018, 19:54   #202
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Good.
So it sometimes pays to listen to people, well, - some people
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Old 13th November 2019, 10:12   #203
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Well. It's been a while but had a busy year with not a lot of time for the rovers.

Anyway. Time for another update.

Everything still good? No. Off course not. It uses coolant again al be it lightly. NO mayo, no pressure build up but level keeps dropping every now and then. Can stay on level for days but can also drop after one drive. Usually needs an 100ml to get it back on level again.

To freshen up the memory, this was replaced so far (don't laugh!)
- oil cooler
- thermostat
- thermostat housing
- inlet manifold gasket (three times)
- cilinderhead gaskets (twice)
- every other gasket you can think of
- heater matrix
- water pump
- coolant cap
Ehm....think that is it.

Refilling was always done exactly the way the procedure states.

After each repair leaking continued. Last were the headgaskets (lot of people told me they never go on a V6). After that mayo stopped as did pressure but coolant kept disappearing.

Engine seized up due to oil starvation (oil pickup pipe blocked with sludge) and had to replace the head (valve broke and all).

Rebuild it again...and it still leaked off course.

Got adviced to use Holt's wonderweld so I did, and flushed it out afterwards. No more coulant disappearing anymore for about 8 month's.

But then the level started dropping again. We suspects one of the liners glue has gone or....cracked block or whatever since everything else is changed by now.
Used a can of liquid Moly kuhlant dichter and it helped for a month or two. Now leaks again. Don't know were. No traces. No mayo, no pressure just drops a bit every now and then. Stays in place for week or two sometimes but can also drop after one drive. What is t with this car... Usually 100ml to top it up again.

Temperature stays perfect. Never higher than 105 (serious traffic jam) but then the fan cools it down quickly to 94. Normal driving temp stays between 88-93

Any ideas what we are missing??
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'99 Rover 75 sterling 2.5 auto in Pewter grey with Aubergine interior
•Born on Wednesday the 23rd of June 1999 @ 11:35:32
•The 6367th 75 to be produced.
•The 214th Pewter Grey 75 out of 442.
•Probably one of a handful Pewters with Aubergine.

Last edited by Pruts3r; 13th November 2019 at 14:53..
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Old 13th November 2019, 13:24   #204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pruts3r View Post
Never higher than 105 ... Normal driving temp stays between 88-93 ..
105 degrees is high. The fan should start at 100 degrees.
88 degrees is too low. The thermostat will only just be starting to open then. You should be seeing a stable temperature in the low nineties, never in the eighties.

Are you using the built-in IPK diagnostics or a third party device?
When refilling, have you been following the MGR procedure exactly?
Are you filling the expansion tank no higher than the internal 'max' tab?
Are the plastic clips on the straight pipe in the 'V' both pushed fully outwards?

Simon
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Old 13th November 2019, 14:47   #205
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I use IPK (19, 7)

Fan starts at 100 precisely. But temp once got to 105 befor going down. Usually IF it gets to or above 100 it rises tot 101/102 before rapidly but steadely dropping down to 94 (fan cuts out at 95)

Driving from my house to the motorway takes 10 minutes and then I already am at the motorway. 88/89/90 it stays on then. As soon as I exit and speed drops it goes to 90-95. On entering motorway it can go down to 88/89/90 again.

Yes we refilled the system correct following procedure every time and to the level max lettering is just above surface. Just for experimentation I 'overfilled' it a few times (1cm above max) but same happens. I only takes longer to drop below MIN then

What plastic clips?
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'99 Rover 75 sterling 2.5 auto in Pewter grey with Aubergine interior
•Born on Wednesday the 23rd of June 1999 @ 11:35:32
•The 6367th 75 to be produced.
•The 214th Pewter Grey 75 out of 442.
•Probably one of a handful Pewters with Aubergine.

Last edited by Pruts3r; 13th November 2019 at 14:51..
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Old 13th November 2019, 19:00   #206
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I've just reviewed your thread and I see that you've put Wonderweld in your cooling system.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pruts3r View Post
On entering motorway it can go down to 88/89/90 again.
That suggests that the Wonderweld has seen your thermostat mechanism as something which needs to be ... err ... "welded".
Quote:
What plastic clips?
You said that you've replaced the thermostat. If you've done that, you can't have failed to notice the straight pipe which fits into it. Are you telling me that yours doesn't have a round plastic clip fitted in the groove at each end?

Simon
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Old 14th November 2019, 05:48   #207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
I've just reviewed your thread and I see that you've put Wonderweld in your cooling system.

That suggests that the Wonderweld has seen your thermostat mechanism as something which needs to be ... err ... "welded".

You said that you've replaced the thermostat. If you've done that, you can't have failed to notice the straight pipe which fits into it. Are you telling me that yours doesn't have a round plastic clip fitted in the groove at each end?

Simon
I have used Wondarweld with great effect. It will most certainly not have welded your thermostat, that is just not even worth considering.
Your temperatures sound fine too! So don't waste any energy there.
Your problem is a small leak, somewhere. Since it does not seem to have been fully cured by the Wondarweld treatment, it could point away from hot areas, such as head gasket and liners, because it is the high heat in such areas, that will let Wondarweld cure, (exhaust gases in the proximity).

Why don't you pressurize the cooling system and look for leaks?

My most troublesome leaks were from water pump (difficult to see as it runs down behind the belt cover), crack under the expansion bottle, faulty expansion bottle lid, leaks around the aluminium matrix on the radiator, leaks on the outside of the corners of the two metal pipes going to the oil cooler, (that was really baffling!), thermostat housing or pipes (unless you have a metal housing), and finally the oil cooler itself. It can leak inside or to the outside. Mine leaked to the outside and it is now serving as paperweight at some scrap dealer in hell! the systems has been removed with no ill effects.
The Rover engine, with its plastic bits, is a minefield for leaks. But they can be found, given a positive attitude, a smoke machine or a pressure system.
Your current leak is not a disaster, more a nagging ache you would like to get rid of.
Surprise yourself and do it. Good luck!!
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Old 19th December 2020, 14:23   #208
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Well here we are again. Been some time and the 75 didn't lose its stripes most of the time.

Did some things to it to improve it:
- fitted powerflex bushes in the front
- fixed the water coming in on the driver's side and run down behind the bonnet release and making my carpet wet.
- swapped out the damaged bumpers
- fitted a Rover 75 real wood steeringwheel with aubergine personalline leather.
- fitted wooden gear selector, also with aubergine leather
- fitted rear blind
- fixed al the door skins permanently. Looks like new.
- fitted original cruisecontrol
- fixed a lot of little nigly things
- the steel pipe that runs under neath the rear seats and that houses the fuel line had rusted through (common thing) so welded that.
And some more things.

Now for the big thing: the coolant drinking. Well it kept doing that. Every 70 km it would need 200ml. It made more mayonnaise than McDonald's does. We tried everything as people who followed up know (read this topic from start and you'll see). Kept checking things, searching, swapped the thermostat when I had a wet V. Bled the system perfect 10 times but it kept at it. Even the wonderweld only helped for like a month.

So what is a guy to do besides going to the nutthouse because of his car? Well we jumped the gun and bought a 70k miles used engine from a damage 75. We swapped the engine but kept all of the new stuff that we put on my old engine over the past few years. So my new oil cooler, fresh water pump, inlet manifold, new thermostat, and everything. Only swapped the engine block complete with heads. Took of the sump and cleaned it out (no sludge so that was a good thing). It was a monsterious job that took 15 hours (yes, we did it in one day) but it ran good from the start. Started right up and sounds great. Always a scary thing to put in a untested engine but it seems to work okay. It sounds a lot better than my old V6 which ticked a lot when cold on idle.

The temperature: it is s bit cold outside now but it is 87-89 when driving motorway (20mile trips, half an hour). When standing still it slowly goes to 90 and stays there for a minute or two before rising gently to the high 90's and then at 100 the fan kicks in.
All the hoses are hot and so are both ends of the radiator. The heater blows hot air.
Are my temperatures okay for this time of year or is it running to cold?

BUT have we solved the coolant drinking?

Well it seems so... The car made about a 500 km so far. The first 2 or 3 trips it needed a topping up a few times (400ml after first 100km trip, and after a second trip 120ml. Then after that just a sip). But now for the last week or so and after 200 km it is sitting stable and no need for topping up. Also the oil cap is dry. No condense, no mayo, no water. So has this done it? Did we finally fix it?

I don't know yet. I am still afraid to trust it is solved. This thing has been troubling me for over 4 years now so I am a bit cautious but signals now look good.

In a few months we will be digging in the old engine to find the culprit (we suspect a loose cilinder liner or a small crack in the block) that has been driving us crazy.

So far the new engine is a big improvement but then again it did only 70k miles whilst my own did 125k miles and mine was treated so bad with previous owners.

Still things to wish for? Yeah. A chrome grille and the chrome boot strip from a mk2.
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'99 Rover 75 sterling 2.5 auto in Pewter grey with Aubergine interior
•Born on Wednesday the 23rd of June 1999 @ 11:35:32
•The 6367th 75 to be produced.
•The 214th Pewter Grey 75 out of 442.
•Probably one of a handful Pewters with Aubergine.

Last edited by Pruts3r; 16th January 2021 at 22:06..
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Old 19th December 2020, 21:43   #209
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Wow, what a story!

Kudos for sticking with it.

From everything you've described, I'd say the old engine had been wrecked before you bought the car. The replacement sounds like a good 'un.


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Old 23rd December 2020, 18:10   #210
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Yeah I had to. Couldnt bring myself to scrapping it (can't sell a car with an issue as mine had). It's too rare a combination with the pewter and full aubergine.
And also I was in it for like 8k euro's already. Giving up meant parting with that money. Now that it is finally looking good and with all the niggly things done it suddenly it isn't an old banger but a classic that people luster after. Here in the Netherlands nice sorted full spec early V6 samples with all the toys and <200.000 kilometers sell for 5000-10000 euro.
I am not thinking about selling it but it is nice to know that the money I pored in is maybe somewhere in the car still hahaha
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'99 Rover 75 sterling 2.5 auto in Pewter grey with Aubergine interior
•Born on Wednesday the 23rd of June 1999 @ 11:35:32
•The 6367th 75 to be produced.
•The 214th Pewter Grey 75 out of 442.
•Probably one of a handful Pewters with Aubergine.

Last edited by Pruts3r; 23rd December 2020 at 18:33..
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