cant get caliper bolts loose on rear ??

sandman jim · 19th May 2015, 19:46

hi guys i need your help,,cant get the nearside rear caliper mounting bolts 1/2 inch out there are seized solid i am using a good 6 sided socket but they wont budge i have broken 1 ratchet already,, getting a socket on is a work of art, 2003 rover 75 ,,regards james

Walter · 19th May 2015, 19:52

Try taking slide pins out first, I did mine today and 1 was really solid, once you take slide pins out,remove caliper body and you get better purchase on half inch bolts --hope this helps

sandman jim · 19th May 2015, 20:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by walter.825coupe

Try taking slide pins out first, I did mine today and 1 was really solid, once you take slide pins out,remove caliper body and you get better purchase on half inch bolts --hope this helps

hi.. took slider pins out for better excess,,fitted brake pads hung caliper out of way,,but the caliper mounting bolts wont budge ?

Walter · 19th May 2015, 20:11

if you have heat might help, in past hammer smaller socket on after heating

Mike Noc · 19th May 2015, 20:20

Give them a good few clumps with a lump hammer and drift.

Gino · 19th May 2015, 20:45

Sometimes it helps to try tightening the bolts up, then try to undo it. It helps to break the seal. It doesn't always work, but worth a try.
Rob

t5tart · 19th May 2015, 21:04

Ive just had mine off used a breaker bar on them

slight tighten first then undo

I used a 13mm socket because of the corrosion on the bolt heads

Jim Jamieson · 19th May 2015, 21:08

In my experience I often had to chisel them at the side of the hex to get them to move.
I replaced mine several times on both the 75's and still had problems removing them.
They really should have been made a bigger size to prevent them being rounded off like this.
If I recall Rover recommended renewing them every time.

Avulon · 19th May 2015, 21:13

I'd be surprised if the bolts were originally 1/2" AF - all fasteners on the 75 and ZT are metric.... Use the correct size socket, and as said remove the caliper body first. Use a six sided socket and a breaker bar - soak in plusgas or other proper penetrating oil first, if that's not enough then some carefully applied heat with a blowtorch should get it moving.

RogerHeinz57 · 19th May 2015, 21:14

If you can get the lower bolt off, a few persuasive knocks with a hammer will break the grip of the top one which is as you know very confined. Also worth replacing all the bolts for next time. The cause of this problem is combined with erosion, and tightened by an idiot who thinks they must never come off ever again.
Good luck with this.

19th May 2015, 19:46	#1
sandman jim Regular poster 2003 rover 75 cdti manual Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: caithness Posts: 84 Thanks: 24 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	cant get caliper bolts loose on rear ?? hi guys i need your help,,cant get the nearside rear caliper mounting bolts 1/2 inch out there are seized solid i am using a good 6 sided socket but they wont budge i have broken 1 ratchet already,, getting a socket on is a work of art, 2003 rover 75 ,,regards james

19th May 2015, 19:52	#2
Walter Posted a thing or two zebadee Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Ayrshire Posts: 1,481 Thanks: 135 Thanked 207 Times in 192 Posts	Caliper bolts Try taking slide pins out first, I did mine today and 1 was really solid, once you take slide pins out,remove caliper body and you get better purchase on half inch bolts --hope this helps

19th May 2015, 20:11	#4
Walter Posted a thing or two zebadee Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Ayrshire Posts: 1,481 Thanks: 135 Thanked 207 Times in 192 Posts	heat if you have heat might help, in past hammer smaller socket on after heating

19th May 2015, 20:45	#6
Gino Gets stuck in Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Newmarket Posts: 601 Thanks: 384 Thanked 130 Times in 99 Posts	Sometimes it helps to try tightening the bolts up, then try to undo it. It helps to break the seal. It doesn't always work, but worth a try. Rob __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] MODS DONE; plenum spyhole, bonnet cable divider block (previous owner), chrome wing mirror covers, gold fan resistor (previous owner), s/s bumper bolts, uprated under tray fittings silicone intercooler hose, Viton O rings, Crofts door finishers, boot badge, wood dash, Phil-t4's magic wand, wood wheel, mk2 repeaters, HK tweeters & Angel eye projectors.

19th May 2015, 21:04	#7
t5tart Posted a thing or two MG ZT cdti Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Northants / Bucks border Posts: 1,815 Thanks: 260 Thanked 204 Times in 182 Posts	Ive just had mine off used a breaker bar on them slight tighten first then undo I used a 13mm socket because of the corrosion on the bolt heads __________________ now with ZT Diesel power after killing the connie and the zt180 combusting see my scrapbook thread check your sunroof drains and plenum drains http://www.buddy-icons.info/img/smile/1609.gif members who do t4 diagnostics map

19th May 2015, 20:20	#5
Mike Noc This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Hampshire Posts: 11,564 Thanks: 3,470 Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts	Give them a good few clumps with a lump hammer and drift.

19th May 2015, 21:08	#8
Jim Jamieson This is my second home Rover less ! Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Tarbolton Posts: 3,442 Thanks: 393 Thanked 888 Times in 542 Posts	In my experience I often had to chisel them at the side of the hex to get them to move. I replaced mine several times on both the 75's and still had problems removing them. They really should have been made a bigger size to prevent them being rounded off like this. If I recall Rover recommended renewing them every time.

19th May 2015, 21:13	#9
Avulon This is my second home 1.8t Tourer Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Tanelorn Posts: 4,830 Thanks: 956 Thanked 1,148 Times in 916 Posts	I'd be surprised if the bolts were originally 1/2" AF - all fasteners on the 75 and ZT are metric.... Use the correct size socket, and as said remove the caliper body first. Use a six sided socket and a breaker bar - soak in plusgas or other proper penetrating oil first, if that's not enough then some carefully applied heat with a blowtorch should get it moving. __________________ Need a T4 ?: T4 Owners Map thanks to Stevestrat ( use at your own risk) Where?: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanelorn Mods/Retrofits: PCV vortex 'filter'; bluetooth; inline thermostat; reversing sensors; plenum spyhole ; headlamp washers ; Diy mp3 player replacing CD multichanger; FBH with remote; Headlamp washers; black/chrome front grille, rear blind; Xenon projectors To do: puddle lights; 2 Din cd/nav to fit; boot release button

19th May 2015, 21:14	#10
RogerHeinz57 I really should get out more....... A Reasonably Priced Car Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Burton Latimer Posts: 2,530 Thanks: 408 Thanked 1,064 Times in 712 Posts	If you can get the lower bolt off, a few persuasive knocks with a hammer will break the grip of the top one which is as you know very confined. Also worth replacing all the bolts for next time. The cause of this problem is combined with erosion, and tightened by an idiot who thinks they must never come off ever again. Good luck with this.