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Old 13th November 2020, 08:18   #31
SD1too
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Hi Brahim,

Remember that you are effectively measuring the continuity of the solenoid windings. If one wasn't operating I would expect it to be open circuit or at least a very high reading (unless of course it's mechanically defective).

Have another close look at your results:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shuriken_57 View Post
18&9=18.8 ohms
18&10=18.9 ohms
18&11= 19 ohms
18&12=19ohms
18&13=18.9 ohms
18&14=18.8ohms
The value of these solenoids all have a maximum of 18 ohms. Look how close the "error" is; in every case it's the same, about 1 ohm.

Perhaps not surprisingly the same is true of the next two which have a table maximum of 3.2 ohms:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shuriken_57 View Post
18&15=3.9 ohms
18&16=3.9 ohms
Again, the same deviation on both solenoids, this time just 0.7 ohms.

With those results I'd be considering the accuracy of the multimeter. But in any case, I doubt that the variation you're seeing justifies pulling your gearbox to pieces when there are much more likely causes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shuriken_57 View Post
... I feel harsh changes especially during kick down and slightly in normal driving.
Smooth operation of automatic gearboxes relies heavily upon correct engine tune so do check all the service items. The fluid level is definitely worth revisiting.

Simon
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Old 13th November 2020, 12:56   #32
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Thank you for your answer.
I suspect they can’t all be faulty.
The values are more or less similar.
I’ll check the gearbox level tomorrow.
But I feel every gear change, and it’s worse with the kick down:hausser les épaules:.

Last edited by Shuriken_57; 13th November 2020 at 14:01..
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Old 14th November 2020, 17:33   #33
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Hello, I tried to do the gearbox oil level today.
I drove 15 minutes with the vehicle before starting .
But when I check the level with engine running nothing comes out.
The oil runs out only when the engine is off.
What do you think? I will check better with a laser thermometer. I added a little oil but nothing came out only engine off.
Maybe I misunderstood the procedure.
Goodbye
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Old 14th November 2020, 19:02   #34
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check level with engine running.


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Old 14th November 2020, 19:03   #35
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Thank you for your answer. I tried this but nothing came out. Do you think I’m missing a lot of oil in the box?
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Old 14th November 2020, 19:05   #36
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yes topup with engine running.


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Old 15th November 2020, 08:42   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shuriken_57 View Post
....I tried to do the gearbox oil level today.
I drove 15 minutes with the vehicle before starting .
But when I check the level with engine running nothing comes out.
The oil runs out only when the engine is off ....
Maybe I misunderstood the procedure.
Hello Brahim,

Here is the official procedure (simplified) for checking the fluid level (from Technical Bulletin TB0080 Issue 1).
  1. Remove air cleaner then remove filler plug.
  2. Add 1 litre of N402 transmission fluid.
  3. Ensure that gearbox temperature is below 30 degrees C [well below normal operating temperature].
  4. With a container under the gearbox, start the engine and allow to idle.
  5. Move gear selector lever through all positions to circulate the fluid through the gearbox.
  6. Allow fluid temperature to increase to between 35 & 40 degrees C.
  7. Remove fluid level plug on underside of gearbox and allow excess fluid to drain until the drips stop (or temperature reaches 40 degrees C). If no fluid drains, add clean fluid in 1 litre quantities until it does.
  8. When drips have stopped, refit and tighten level plug to 15Nm.
  9. Stop engine and refit filler plug and air cleaner.

You won't be able to measure the actual fluid temperature to this accuracy. The best you can do is probably to use a thermometer quickly on the drained fluid in your container. However, as a guide, water at 30 degrees is comfortable to the hands but 40 degrees is too hot.

I doubt that these temperatures are critical since automatics have managed without them for decades. You may have made a mistake though by driving the car for 15 minutes before beginning. The fluid would have been at more like 60 degrees by then.

Simon
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Last edited by SD1too; 15th November 2020 at 08:46..
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Old 15th November 2020, 11:50   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
Hello Brahim,

Here is the official procedure (simplified) for checking the fluid level (from Technical Bulletin TB0080 Issue 1).
  1. Remove air cleaner then remove filler plug.
  2. Add 1 litre of N402 transmission fluid.
  3. Ensure that gearbox temperature is below 30 degrees C [well below normal operating temperature].
  4. With a container under the gearbox, start the engine and allow to idle.
  5. Move gear selector lever through all positions to circulate the fluid through the gearbox.
  6. Allow fluid temperature to increase to between 35 & 40 degrees C.
  7. Remove fluid level plug on underside of gearbox and allow excess fluid to drain until the drips stop (or temperature reaches 40 degrees C). If no fluid drains, add clean fluid in 1 litre quantities until it does.
  8. When drips have stopped, refit and tighten level plug to 15Nm.
  9. Stop engine and refit filler plug and air cleaner.

You won't be able to measure the actual fluid temperature to this accuracy. The best you can do is probably to use a thermometer quickly on the drained fluid in your container. However, as a guide, water at 30 degrees is comfortable to the hands but 40 degrees is too hot.

I doubt that these temperatures are critical since automatics have managed without them for decades. You may have made a mistake though by driving the car for 15 minutes before beginning. The fluid would have been at more like 60 degrees by then.

Simon
Thanks you Simon.
I ordered oil, I would do the level as soon as it was received.
Indeed, the oil was very hot , I will follow your valuable advice.
I’m starting to think my gearbox is running low on oil.
Have a good day.
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Old 15th November 2020, 15:03   #39
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Good morning, gentlemen.
While waiting to receive my gearbox oil, I tested the solenoids today, this time the engine was cold and it was about 14 degrees Celsius (about 57°F) .
Here are my results:
1&2 = 569 Ohms (513 to 627 ohms)
-3&4 = 557 Ohms (513 to 627 ohms)
-5&6 =556 ohms (513 to 627 ohms)
-7&8 = 2930 ohms
-18&9 = 17.4 ohms (14 to 18 ohms)
-18&10 = 17.5 ohms (14 to 18 ohms)
-18&11= 17.5 ohms (14 to 18 ohms)
-18&12=17.5 ohms (14 to 18 ohms)
-18&13= 17.4 ohms (14 to 18 ohms)
-18&14= 17.4 ohms (14 to 18 ohms)
-18&15= 3.7 ohms (2.6 to .3.2 ohms)
-18&16= 3.7 ohms (2.6 to 3.2 ohms)
-18&17= 13.6 ohms (12 to 13.2 ohms)

What do you think? The last three solenoids are off limits.

Last edited by Shuriken_57; 15th November 2020 at 15:07..
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Old 15th November 2020, 17:41   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shuriken_57 View Post
-18&15= 3.7 ohms (2.6 to 3.2 ohms)
-18&16= 3.7 ohms (2.6 to 3.2 ohms)
-18&17= 13.6 ohms (12 to 13.2 ohms)

What do you think? The last three solenoids are off limits.
Don't worry about 0.4 or 0.5 ohms.
  • Your multimeter's accuracy could account for that (note that the readings were different last time).
  • It's reassuring that you have the same reading for the same type of solenoid.
  • The solenoids will still operate as the difference in current will be only about 26mA (which is tiny).

Let us know how you get on with the fluid level check.

Simon
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Last edited by SD1too; 15th November 2020 at 17:43..
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