help with suspension strut - Page 2

marinabrian · 1st October 2014, 06:38

I have found on the 75 models (not ZT) that the spring must be compressed in situ to allow the bottom of the damper to be entered into the socket on the swivel hub.

The only other way to do this, is to disconnect the lower ball joint, and lift the swivel hub from the lower arm.

Once entered into the swivel hub and the damper pinch bolt fitted, then the hub is reconnected to the lower arm outer ball joint.

As I say, much easier to apply a little compression to the springs though

By the way the part you were asking about in your original question is a bump stop, the purpose of this is to prevent the spring becoming coilbound at full bump

Brian

DMGRS · 1st October 2014, 13:15

After helping a friend change the springs on his 75, we did need to compress everything in-situ to get the lot back together.

David Lawrence · 1st October 2014, 18:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by marinabrian

I have found on the 75 models (not ZT) that the spring must be compressed in situ to allow the bottom of the damper to be entered into the socket on the swivel hub.

The only other way to do this, is to disconnect the lower ball joint, and lift the swivel hub from the lower arm.

Once entered into the swivel hub and the damper pinch bolt fitted, then the hub is reconnected to the lower arm outer ball joint.

As I say, much easier to apply a little compression to the springs though

By the way the part you were asking about in your original question is a bump stop, the purpose of this is to prevent the spring becoming coilbound at full bump

Brian

To confirm, are you saying you can change a strut without releasing the lower ball joint by partial compression of springs? It always looked like it would work but never heard anyone confirm it before

steveandjanes75 · 6th October 2014, 20:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Lawrence

To confirm, are you saying you can change a strut without releasing the lower ball joint by partial compression of springs? It always looked like it would work but never heard anyone confirm it before

No I am not saying that. I have removed the bottom ball

This is where I am at.

I have even tried to get the spring compressors back on, but there is not a lot of room under the wheel arch, I can only get one on one side and then it only catches three coils of the spring, so there is not a lot of compression.
The end of the strut all the way into the boot on the hub. And I have a trolley jack suporting the hub as it is otherwise just hanging on the brake pipe. But when I try to jack up the hub the pressure pushes the hub and the trolley jack outwards and away from the pin in the lower ball joint .

Don.Hasi · 23rd October 2021, 21:17

I am in the same situation. What was the solution then? How did you get the damper proper into the hub?

UpWeardale · 24th October 2021, 08:29

I ended up taking the hub off the driveshaft. Slide the hub on the strut, slide driveshaft back in, new nut then the ball joints. I only needed about 5mm of extra movement but it just wouldn't go without the driveshaft off. More work than I expected.

SD1too · 24th October 2021, 08:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Don.Hasi

I am in the same situation. What was the solution then? How did you get the damper proper into the hub?

Hello Don,

Steveandjanes75 hasn't been on-line for a year so is unlikely to see your question. When I did this job earlier in the year (both sides!) I noted the following:

The suspension arm must be as low as possible and the outer balljoint protected.
Lubricate the damper lower seating and inside the hub's upper sleeve with Waxoyl. Leave the 3 strut upper mounting nuts loosely fitted to allow movement.
With the hub positioned at the rear of the wheelarch (temporarily raised on an axle stand helps), lift it by hand to engage its top mounting over the damper then fit the pinch bolt (also coated in Waxoyl).
Locate the outer balljoint which will resist insertion into the hub unless the angle of the spigot is just right and the hub is pushed inwards towards the engine. I'd recommend plenty of Waxoyl on the balljoint clamp too as this location is particularly susceptible to flooding if the car is driven through standing water.

My method is not the only one and no doubt you will receive different advice following this post. Nevertheless I hope that my experience has been helpful to you.

Simon

Don.Hasi · 27th November 2021, 19:30

Thanks for your help upweardale and Simon. At the end the RHS nearly got me stranded and the LHS fitted like a glove. The RHS went only with nearly brute force, much lubrication, splitting the back space of the bolt with the effect, that getting the bolt back in afterwards was a PITA as well.

But after all it was worth it. The car is back as a magic carpet. Mission complete.

Thank you all for your help here and elsewhere.

1st October 2014, 13:15	#12
DMGRS Discount MG Rover Spares Rover 75 CDTi, 2x MG ZS180 Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Hythe, Southampton Posts: 11,320 Thanks: 456 Thanked 3,377 Times in 2,027 Posts	After helping a friend change the springs on his 75, we did need to compress everything in-situ to get the lot back together. __________________ Your trusted MG Rover specialist! Tel: 02380 001133 / Email: [email protected] We now have a 'chat' function on our site for even quicker replies. Give it a try! Remember - discount code FORUM5 for 5% off

23rd October 2021, 21:17	#15
Don.Hasi Regular poster 75 Saloon CDTi Auto Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Karlsruhe Posts: 75 Thanks: 49 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	I am in the same situation. What was the solution then? How did you get the damper proper into the hub? __________________ Mods: Vitons, Samco intercooler tubes, inline Thermostat R5, T4 remap, Eibach lowering springs, Monroes Front, ARB-poly bushes Harman Kardon speakers upgrade, PIAA aerovison blades, some PPD accessories

27th November 2021, 19:30	#18
Don.Hasi Regular poster 75 Saloon CDTi Auto Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Karlsruhe Posts: 75 Thanks: 49 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	Thanks for your help upweardale and Simon. At the end the RHS nearly got me stranded and the LHS fitted like a glove. The RHS went only with nearly brute force, much lubrication, splitting the back space of the bolt with the effect, that getting the bolt back in afterwards was a PITA as well. But after all it was worth it. The car is back as a magic carpet. Mission complete. Thank you all for your help here and elsewhere. __________________ Mods: Vitons, Samco intercooler tubes, inline Thermostat R5, T4 remap, Eibach lowering springs, Monroes Front, ARB-poly bushes Harman Kardon speakers upgrade, PIAA aerovison blades, some PPD accessories

1st October 2014, 06:38	#11
marinabrian MG ZT Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne Posts: 20,151 Thanks: 3,565 Thanked 10,837 Times in 5,718 Posts	I have found on the 75 models (not ZT) that the spring must be compressed in situ to allow the bottom of the damper to be entered into the socket on the swivel hub. The only other way to do this, is to disconnect the lower ball joint, and lift the swivel hub from the lower arm. Once entered into the swivel hub and the damper pinch bolt fitted, then the hub is reconnected to the lower arm outer ball joint. As I say, much easier to apply a little compression to the springs though By the way the part you were asking about in your original question is a bump stop, the purpose of this is to prevent the spring becoming coilbound at full bump Brian

24th October 2021, 08:29	#16
UpWeardale Newbie Rover 75 saloon Join Date: Feb 2020 Location: Hexham Posts: 23 Thanks: 20 Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts	I ended up taking the hub off the driveshaft. Slide the hub on the strut, slide driveshaft back in, new nut then the ball joints. I only needed about 5mm of extra movement but it just wouldn't go without the driveshaft off. More work than I expected.