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20th February 2019, 17:37 | #31 |
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none Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Seaford
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Well, in the end I had to admit defeat which was very frustrating!
I attacked the front bolt again today. I cut down a 18mm socket to make a low profile one and by filing off the back of a breaker bar I managed to move the bolt probably about a third of a turn (bit like Andy with a screwdriver). I kept loosening / tightening with plenty of releasing fluid until it was fairly easy to move and I thought that I had it cracked. However, because I had started to loose clearance as the bolt rose up I had to start using a ring spanner with another one attached as suggested by Artic (great idea). Whilst this gave me good leverage the bolt wouldn't move any further. After much trying the bolt start to round off so I stopped as I didn't want to make it impossible to remove. I already have the car booked in for it's MOT retest tomorrow so whilst I didn't want to have to pay garage labour prices I haven't got any choice. Thanks very much for everyone's helpful suggestions and encouragement. I just hope that I don't have to do the other side at any point! |
21st February 2019, 17:36 | #32 |
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75 KV6 2.5 3x Rover 75 CDT Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Belgium
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Sorry to read it didn't work. It is akward, but can be done....
Have done a few and now put heat in the subframe bottom where the bolts thread into it (visible by two places probably to close the holes up after installing the threads), then an 18mm spanner and have tube I put over it for extra leverage (about 1 metre long...). And as mentioned before, I also attack it from underneath the car and from the wheel side and a ratchet spanner once loose and for installation. Has worked the last six times, but was struggling before without heat. Even with this experience it can take easily over 1,5 hours to do one side. Rob
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75 KV6 2.5 Sterling automatic, 3x 75 CDT (2 manual + automatic), MG ZT 190+, 620i, SD1 2300S, P6 2000SC & TVR 350i |
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