Front Strut Removal. Some Questions.

[EdgarDonaldBalls]

All the complete ZT front struts seem to be for 1.8 petrol cars so it wasn't an option for me unfortunately (mines a dirty diesel) otherwise I would have done it that way since I'm replacing the springs, shocks, top mount bearings and drop links, it would have made sense. I could have fitted 1.8 struts but the car would sit lower at the front and could have a bad effect on the handling so I chose not to.

[EdgarDonaldBalls]

Looked under the seat and got the codes, brown/red. Couldn't find complete assemblies anywhere.

I got genuine shocks from a place called vitesse ltd, saved about £20 over rimmers prices and free delivery, front springs are FAI but all the information I could find points to the specs being the same as the genuine item for half the price. A lot of other manufacturers seem to have one spring spec to suit all ZT's so stayed well clear of those. Never had a problem with FAI parts so hopefully their springs are good.

Drop links are unipart so are hopefully OK and top bearings are from DMGRS.

bit of a mash up of parts but should hopefully be good enough to last a few years.

[EHD1978]

I love this forum. This thread has given me the confidence to try and replace the front struts on my ZT 190 SE myself, after it breaking a spring while being laid up over winter.

[Abott10]

I attach a few images taken whilst working

[Kev75]

I think those bolts are 10. something maybe even 12. something


Kev

[Madderz]

I have some new ones here i got off Rimmers, they read GKS 10.9, part number RYG000500 if that's any help to you.

[Madderz]

I'm still picking through mine slowly.... I have invested in a Burgen 30in breaker bar on your recommendation

[beinet1]

Good work John, I always love to see how your work proceed

My advice would be to buy new OEM bolts as these is made of a higher grade than your standard 8.8 bolts.

[Coups]

Tried changing struts yesterday and could I get the bottom ball joint separated? Nope.... Pinch bolt cane out, everything else went swimmingly but being a 75 I couldn’t get the long strut out with the room available. Bashed away with a length of wood and lump hammer, had a go with a heavy duty ball joint splitter and bent the pin in that. Thing is it did semi to move a few mm but wouldn’t release. Am I missing something? Gave up after a few hours as it all had to go back together to get me to work.


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[Abott10]

Here's a range of seven images I took whilst completing the job this morning before it became too hot for further work. Plus, there's World Cup Football to see.

So here's some words to go with each 1-7 image.

1]... Essential to ensure the raised car is secure and safe to work under. Axle stands placed sensibly a must.

2]... Release that drop Link Nut ~ they are always corrosion welded tight ~ cue the big 3/4" Breaker bar to start removal finishing with hefty Socket Drive. You'll need to use a slim 14mm Open ended spanner to stop the Swivel joint simply rotating without undoing the 15mm Nut. Also remove the Pinch Boilt and slip the Brake Hose, ABS and Brake Wear Sensor cables from their Bracket Locations on the old Strut.

3]... and 4]... A few controlled taps with the 4lb Club Hammer with a small bock of wood for protection. The Strut slipped out easily ... partly thanks to the use of Penetrating Fluid a day of so before tackling this job.

5]... Ensure the Drop Link is slipped out of its Anti-Roll bar location once the 15mm Nut has been removed.

6]... After removing the 3 x 14mm Locking Nuts which secure the strut to the upper part of the wheel arch inside the engine compartment, the old strut can be removed. Beware, awkward to handle and its heavy too which doesn't help.

7]... Lots of working access once that Strut is out of the way.

More images to follow ~ see next post.