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28th June 2018, 10:01 | #1 |
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Rover 75 2.0 V6 Auto Join Date: May 2011
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Rear of sill full of muck/mud
Hi all,
After reading "horror stories" about rear sills that has rotten away I decied to to some preventive work. I removed the jack pads yesterday and discovered that the rear of the RH sill was full of dry mud/muck. It was nearly impossible to get that stuff out of there and I wonder how it has got in there??? How can I get this out? I emptied a can of linseed oil into the sills through the jackpad holes and drain holes along its lengths. Hope this will be sufficient for corrosion protection for a while. I think I have read some where that removal of the chrome trim is necessary to gain sufficient access to inject waxoil. Can anyone confirm this? |
28th June 2018, 10:57 | #2 |
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Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti Join Date: Aug 2008
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I spoke to one member on here who had cleaned his sills out with a pressure washer - I think you need to jack the car up, and peel back the wheel arch liners at the end of the sill, then there are some plugs or holes where you can blast the pressure washer lance into the sill, with the water draining out of the jacking point holes. The only problem with this, is that you then need to dry out the inside of the sill before thinking about rustproofing with cavity wax inside the sill. You could blast compressed air through the holes to get the water out, then leave the car in a warm, dry ventilated area for day or two for the sills to dry out (a hair dryer could be used to put warm air through the sills to help the drying process). Do not think about injecting cavity wax until you think you have dried out the sills - this could trap moisture and make corrosion worse.
Good luck - this is a job I mean to do on my car one day. Pete |
28th June 2018, 14:00 | #3 |
I really should get out more.......
Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jul 2011
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There should be a grommet which you’ll find (or won’t) after peeling back the wheel arch liner. If missing then you’ve got your answer as to how it got it there. Unfortunately I found the grommet hole doesn’t allow easy injection of rust protection materials unless you have some sort of lance. I then found another hole from under the car which was taped closed but allowed better access to inject waxoil into the rear sill.
Short of cutting open the sill I think it’ll be very difficult to remove the dry mud and drenching the area with oil / waxoil is probably the best you can do for the time being. When I welded mine I found a flammable polystyrene type barrier in front of the rear jacking point which would make it difficult to clean the area from the front jacking point. I never attempted to remove the chrome trim. Regards |
28th June 2018, 15:06 | #4 |
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Clean out the drain holes, plenty of soapy water through them, dry thoroughly, add rust preventative via a lance.
either through the drain holes or the end holes. 360 degree applicator. A heat gun or hair dryer is good for drying out if you haven't time to wait for the hot weather!
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Oil in my veins! |
29th June 2018, 13:07 | #5 |
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Rover 75 2.0 V6 Auto Join Date: May 2011
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Hi,
Thanks for the feedback. My biggest question might be "how did all the cr@p get in there"?? |
29th June 2018, 13:57 | #6 |
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My previous thoughts on the origin of a lot of the muck we find in the sills, been the same with both my current 75's.
"In common with a number of people on the forum I’ve had a problem with rust around the rear jacking pad, in my case the driver side. I was a little bit surprised to find corrosion in this area, because the jacking pad was still in place and the accepted wisdom seemed to be that rust was only going to appear if this was missing. Anyway I cut out the affected area, fabricated a patch and welded it into place. When I had taken off the jacking pad I noticed that one of the securing lugs was broken, so stuck some sealer around it to secure it into place, a couple of weeks later, having got a jacking pad from a scrap car I gently removed the old one, only to release a trickle of rusty water. To my mind the water was coming into the sill from somewhere else, so last weekend when I had a bit of time I pulled back the plastic wheel arch liner and found a 3 way panel join at the base of the wheel arch. The panel join is not fully closed and there is essentially a triangular opening in the centre which would appear to drain into the sill. In the case of my car the plastic liner is not a great fit and I think water would run down the inside of the wheel arch and a percentage would then be directed into the sill. The triangular opening was partially blocked by damp silt. So maybe this is the source of a lot of the mud and water that find it’s way into the sill? I’ve included a couple of photos of that of the offending panel join". |
29th June 2018, 14:17 | #7 |
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Me and my brother were discussing this same point and came to the same conclusion, compared 3 car and the finishing if this joint is not great on all 3 and appears to allow water to track down the rear wheel arch and into cill.
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29th June 2018, 18:18 | #8 | |
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Rover 75 2.0 V6 Auto Join Date: May 2011
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Quote:
Thanks for the information. I guess we are talking about the rear wheel arc liner here? I guess that this may explain why it has been reported several cases with rear sill corrosion which probably will be more frequent as our cars gets older. Otherwise, it seems that our car in general has a great resistance against corrosion compared to a lot of other makes from the same years. |
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29th June 2018, 18:24 | #9 |
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rover 75 1.8 vvc club se wedgwood blue Join Date: Aug 2009
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Caught mine before too much damage
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29th June 2018, 20:22 | #10 |
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When using that Dynax have lots of newspaper to put under the vent holes under the sill, or it will make a right mess on the drive.
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