Rounded off torx bolt - Page 3

Saga Lout · 26th July 2015, 09:38

You can't get at them from under the car...I'd firstly put a couple of the other bolts back in to brace the seat, it's possible to break away a captive nut if the seat is moving about, then you would be stuffed. If it came to the worst scenario, move the seat clear, cut the seat mount through and take the seat out of the car, with the seat out you can cut around the area where the bolt is and expose the head. I've had one like this on the ZT and they can be over tight, so I did just this and got it with some good grips, a fresh runner on the seat and all's well. It makes it worse if the floors have been wet and the rust forms on the bolts.

ratchet · 26th July 2015, 10:12

I don't know the bolt in question - accessability etc, but I have had success in the past by cutting a groove in the top of the bolt with a dremel, and then using a screw driver.

Phil-T4 · 26th July 2015, 10:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by Greeners

its the proper tool for the seat bolts Similar to Torx but not the same

Torx Plus are a better fit than Ribe...

suzublu · 26th July 2015, 10:44

Plus one for Torx Plus

Ribe......

Torx.....

rich17865 · 26th July 2015, 11:57

Just looked at mine, it's torx plus also, apologies.

IverRover · 27th July 2015, 13:01

Thanks for all the messgaes offering suggestions.

No access to bolts from underneath the car, as I think there must be a captive nut inside like the chassis rail.

Torx Plus and Ribe bits.....no joy there. Nothing left for them to get any purchase on.

As the bolt head sits down in the slider rail channel, not able to get any grips on, so I think for now I will have to leave it. Don't want to risk getting into more trouble by doing something silly like dislodging captive nut, with hammering and chiseling around.

Will have to put my thinking head on.

Cheers all.

RPWC · 27th July 2015, 13:20

Is it possible to remove the seat from the runner? If so my suggestion would be do that,then drill the bolt out,if nec re tap the thread on the captive nut,or drill all the way throughth chassis,and fit longer bolt,locking washer and ordinary lock nut?

Christopher · 27th July 2015, 14:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by IverRover

Thanks for all the messgaes offering suggestions.

No access to bolts from underneath the car, as I think there must be a captive nut inside like the chassis rail.

Torx Plus and Ribe bits.....no joy there. Nothing left for them to get any purchase on.

As the bolt head sits down in the slider rail channel, not able to get any grips on, so I think for now I will have to leave it. Don't want to risk getting into more trouble by doing something silly like dislodging captive nut, with hammering and chiseling around.

Will have to put my thinking head on.

Cheers all.

I gave my bolt a damn good thrashing for over an hour and there were no ill effects - after it inched forward it came off ok and the thread etc was pristine ready for another bolt which went in straight away - so I would say persevere with the "kicking it out" route!

Best of luck!

Les4048 · 27th July 2015, 20:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by Heddy

Can you tap it round with a small chisel? I thought Dragrad had fixed it for a while because he said 'Thread moved'

Was going to suggest this too

Les4048 · 27th July 2015, 20:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by rich17865

Thanks Rich, I honestly never knew this, must check my tool box now lol

26th July 2015, 09:38	#21
Saga Lout This is my second home MG ZT and Rover 75, Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Wigan Posts: 3,276 Thanks: 2,556 Thanked 2,685 Times in 1,037 Posts	Not possible You can't get at them from under the car...I'd firstly put a couple of the other bolts back in to brace the seat, it's possible to break away a captive nut if the seat is moving about, then you would be stuffed. If it came to the worst scenario, move the seat clear, cut the seat mount through and take the seat out of the car, with the seat out you can cut around the area where the bolt is and expose the head. I've had one like this on the ZT and they can be over tight, so I did just this and got it with some good grips, a fresh runner on the seat and all's well. It makes it worse if the floors have been wet and the rust forms on the bolts.

27th July 2015, 13:20	#27
RPWC This is my second home 75 model car Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Newcastle upon Tyne Posts: 20,177 Thanks: 4,008 Thanked 5,083 Times in 3,114 Posts	Is it possible to remove the seat from the runner? If so my suggestion would be do that,then drill the bolt out,if nec re tap the thread on the captive nut,or drill all the way throughth chassis,and fit longer bolt,locking washer and ordinary lock nut? __________________ Cheers. Rich…

26th July 2015, 10:12	#22
ratchet Posted a thing or two ZT-T + CTDI Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Gone walkabout Posts: 1,185 Thanks: 179 Thanked 361 Times in 289 Posts	I don't know the bolt in question - accessability etc, but I have had success in the past by cutting a groove in the top of the bolt with a dremel, and then using a screw driver.

26th July 2015, 10:44	#24
suzublu This is my second home rover 75 1.8 vvc club se wedgwood blue Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Seaton Carew Posts: 26,920 Thanks: 65 Thanked 7,142 Times in 4,642 Posts	Plus one for Torx Plus Ribe...... Torx.....

26th July 2015, 11:57	#25
rich17865 This is my second home Transit Connect Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Crewe Posts: 9,532 Thanks: 868 Thanked 1,619 Times in 1,095 Posts	Just looked at mine, it's torx plus also, apologies.

27th July 2015, 13:01	#26
IverRover Avid contributor Rover 75 2.0ltr V6 Connoisseur SE Saloon Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: South Bucks Posts: 200 Thanks: 54 Thanked 38 Times in 20 Posts	Thanks for all the messgaes offering suggestions. No access to bolts from underneath the car, as I think there must be a captive nut inside like the chassis rail. Torx Plus and Ribe bits.....no joy there. Nothing left for them to get any purchase on. As the bolt head sits down in the slider rail channel, not able to get any grips on, so I think for now I will have to leave it. Don't want to risk getting into more trouble by doing something silly like dislodging captive nut, with hammering and chiseling around. Will have to put my thinking head on. Cheers all.