Booked in for two new tyres, twang..... - Page 2

vitesse · 9th February 2021, 21:38

Cold weather? Only minus 16c here.

Not a nice time of year for this to happen - tempting fate perhaps but mine have always gone spring (I know) and summer. You’d think with our winters and snow/ice rutted roads it would happen during winter, but did a little survey and most Swedish users reported 50 - 50.

Remember struggling with one pinch bolt, eventually welded a large nut over the existing one and got it out. Not sure if the heat helped but the silly little head on the bolt started rounding. Prefer working on my SD1 where the bolt size and head are usually larger on suspension components.

Five years is a lot better than one of mine - bought a set of two Lesjöfors springs, Swedish quality, but only got two years and twang, one broken spring. After a six month wait got a refund. Replaced with two cheapies from Carparts4less, still good. Moral here somewhere.

Shed not under water?

Keep well

edwardmk · 9th February 2021, 21:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by stocktake

Top mount was replaced around five year ago as was the spring (Rimmers), 5 yr for a spring is not long in my opinion, did both at same time passenger side is still looking good. Right hand side ( drivers) is the one that has failed seems to get all the cr@p. Got a new spring, new top mount and even new strut in my pile of stash, I just know that pinch bolt is going be trouble

Lot's of potholes?

stocktake · 10th February 2021, 18:13

Found a great how to

spongeh · 10th February 2021, 19:19

Mine went on Saturday

First thing I did was order a full set of springs, top mounts & bearings and new pinch bolts.

I'm really not looking forward to getting the strut pinch bolts out

trikey · 11th February 2021, 07:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by stocktake

Found a great how to

Nearly as good as lowering the car onto the new spring to compress it then tying it off....

tourer · 11th February 2021, 09:00

Strange isn't it?
I bought a Tourer brand new, build date 2002.
The rear springs have both been replaced twice. Both front are still the originals.

stocktake · 12th February 2021, 13:21

Cannot believe this took well over 4 hours. After a good couple of days soaking in plus gas the 15mm impact socket felt a good fit on the strut pinch bolt, Oh how wrong I was, I could feel this rounding off as soon as I put any force on a 12" Tbar.
Next weapon of choice was a 14mm impact socket and a 3lb lump hammer!
Managed to get this on right up to the shoulder of the nut but the Tbar would not move it, even with a few well placed hits from the lump hammer. Finally took a 36" breaker bar on the end of the impact socket and slowly but surely applied more and more pressure.

We all know that feeling when you feel the bolt "give"

but after the escapade with the rear subframe a while ago I learnt my lesson and it was forwards and backwards 1/8 of a turn at a time, this took well over 40 mins. Something I learnt today. using a breaker bar straight onto a socket you really don't want to remove from the bolt you have to be able to move the bar through 90degrees to be able to remove it from the socket and refit to continue turning. due to the length of the bar I couldn't achieve 90degree movement. A short extension has the 1/2 drive fittings at either end staggered at 45 degree so by repeatedly fitting and removing the short extension I was able to move the pinch bolt back and forth in 45 degree amounts

As the spring was broken it was an easy task to angle grind through the drop link and remove the old strut. Now, I was hoping to leave the spring compressors on to keep the strut compressed and avoid having to remove the hub to arm pinch bolt to lower the hub but there just wasn't enough room (after trying for quite a while

). So the second pinch bolt was brought into the firing line.

Pretty certain the second pinch bolt had taken lessons from the first as I first thought I would be able to crack this off as it looked to be in quite good condition, Nope, back to the next size down impact socket, lump hammer and breaker bar. And, another 30 to 40 mins being oh so nice to a pig of a bolt. Managed to split the joint without damaging the rubber boot as well

.

As usual putting things back together is always a lot easier but I still feel uncomfortable with spring compressors

, I use three as opposed to two, equally spaced to help eliminate slipping and I always count my fingers before and after use,

anyway from my goodie box, new strut, spring, top mount, drop link and spring protector and no harder than expected but one thing is for certain, I'm getting too old to be doing this sort of stuff in the cold on the drive

. Still got the other side to change the spring on in the not too distant but it looks in good condition so I'm torn at the moment as I ache and I'm cold, so it will wait.

Worth noting I last did this spring 5 yr ago and I took out what I presume where the original pinch bolts. they would have been 15 yr old then. I replaced them as you do but the replacements have certainly not lasted anywhere as long before becoming a problem to remove. I have replaced them again with bolts from rimmers but I have no intention of doing them again in another 5

.

To the others that have still to do this, good luck with the strut and hub pinch bolts. And do not attempt it if you don't have 6 sided impact sockets ( and a lump hammer

)

trikey · 12th February 2021, 20:04

They can be troublesome Dave, I warm them up these days too, it helps a lot!

alanaslan · 13th February 2021, 05:37

I must be the lucky bloke here, Having read this the pinch bolt seems to give everyone bother. I have probably done a dozen 75 front strut springs over the years and never had any bother. depending on state i either do them cold with a six sided impact socket on the big gun or if they look bad warm them up a little then use the big gun. the problem I have always come across is the top bearing bolts spinning where their meant to be trapped or just sheering at low torque. I now as a matter of course knock out all three and replace with quality High tensile setscrews means you have to work at top and bottom, but well worth it, I have even had a 6 month old top mount rubber fail makes for a nice dent in the bonnet. For spring compressing I use a floor mount with pump pedal makes it so much easier than fiddling with the bolt and Hook ones. I would not have the guts at my age to use the mole grip method I hope to see my eightieth in a few years time.

Typhoon190 · 13th February 2021, 10:41

You're a brave man or a complete nutcase tackling that task in sub freezing temperatures Dave.

I can't handle the cold.

10th February 2021, 18:13	#13
stocktake Vis Whiz Rover 75 2.5 auto Saloon Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: LEEDS Posts: 20,587 Thanks: 2,057 Thanked 3,056 Times in 1,621 Posts	Found a great how to __________________ Dave... Lost a few stones and a Gall Bladder and part of a bile duct and all of my dignity in the suppository incident

10th February 2021, 19:19	#14
spongeh Loves to post MG ZT-T+ 180 Sport Auto Join Date: May 2016 Location: Wyrley Posts: 290 Thanks: 34 Thanked 117 Times in 72 Posts	Mine went on Saturday First thing I did was order a full set of springs, top mounts & bearings and new pinch bolts. I'm really not looking forward to getting the strut pinch bolts out __________________ https://badges.fuelly.com/images/sma...uk/1095349.png http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-uk/106569.png

12th February 2021, 13:21	#17
stocktake Vis Whiz Rover 75 2.5 auto Saloon Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: LEEDS Posts: 20,587 Thanks: 2,057 Thanked 3,056 Times in 1,621 Posts	Cannot believe this took well over 4 hours. After a good couple of days soaking in plus gas the 15mm impact socket felt a good fit on the strut pinch bolt, Oh how wrong I was, I could feel this rounding off as soon as I put any force on a 12" Tbar. Next weapon of choice was a 14mm impact socket and a 3lb lump hammer! Managed to get this on right up to the shoulder of the nut but the Tbar would not move it, even with a few well placed hits from the lump hammer. Finally took a 36" breaker bar on the end of the impact socket and slowly but surely applied more and more pressure. We all know that feeling when you feel the bolt "give" but after the escapade with the rear subframe a while ago I learnt my lesson and it was forwards and backwards 1/8 of a turn at a time, this took well over 40 mins. Something I learnt today. using a breaker bar straight onto a socket you really don't want to remove from the bolt you have to be able to move the bar through 90degrees to be able to remove it from the socket and refit to continue turning. due to the length of the bar I couldn't achieve 90degree movement. A short extension has the 1/2 drive fittings at either end staggered at 45 degree so by repeatedly fitting and removing the short extension I was able to move the pinch bolt back and forth in 45 degree amounts As the spring was broken it was an easy task to angle grind through the drop link and remove the old strut. Now, I was hoping to leave the spring compressors on to keep the strut compressed and avoid having to remove the hub to arm pinch bolt to lower the hub but there just wasn't enough room (after trying for quite a while ). So the second pinch bolt was brought into the firing line. Pretty certain the second pinch bolt had taken lessons from the first as I first thought I would be able to crack this off as it looked to be in quite good condition, Nope, back to the next size down impact socket, lump hammer and breaker bar. And, another 30 to 40 mins being oh so nice to a pig of a bolt. Managed to split the joint without damaging the rubber boot as well . As usual putting things back together is always a lot easier but I still feel uncomfortable with spring compressors , I use three as opposed to two, equally spaced to help eliminate slipping and I always count my fingers before and after use, anyway from my goodie box, new strut, spring, top mount, drop link and spring protector and no harder than expected but one thing is for certain, I'm getting too old to be doing this sort of stuff in the cold on the drive . Still got the other side to change the spring on in the not too distant but it looks in good condition so I'm torn at the moment as I ache and I'm cold, so it will wait. Worth noting I last did this spring 5 yr ago and I took out what I presume where the original pinch bolts. they would have been 15 yr old then. I replaced them as you do but the replacements have certainly not lasted anywhere as long before becoming a problem to remove. I have replaced them again with bolts from rimmers but I have no intention of doing them again in another 5 . To the others that have still to do this, good luck with the strut and hub pinch bolts. And do not attempt it if you don't have 6 sided impact sockets ( and a lump hammer ) __________________ Dave... Lost a few stones and a Gall Bladder and part of a bile duct and all of my dignity in the suppository incident Last edited by stocktake; 16th February 2021 at 18:50..

12th February 2021, 20:04	#18
trikey Premium Trader Rover 75 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Devon Posts: 33,764 Thanks: 8,837 Thanked 14,831 Times in 8,030 Posts	They can be troublesome Dave, I warm them up these days too, it helps a lot! __________________ Lest we forget..

9th February 2021, 21:38	#11
vitesse I really should get out more....... Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Gävle Posts: 2,528 Thanks: 395 Thanked 823 Times in 652 Posts	Cold weather? Only minus 16c here. Not a nice time of year for this to happen - tempting fate perhaps but mine have always gone spring (I know) and summer. You’d think with our winters and snow/ice rutted roads it would happen during winter, but did a little survey and most Swedish users reported 50 - 50. Remember struggling with one pinch bolt, eventually welded a large nut over the existing one and got it out. Not sure if the heat helped but the silly little head on the bolt started rounding. Prefer working on my SD1 where the bolt size and head are usually larger on suspension components. Five years is a lot better than one of mine - bought a set of two Lesjöfors springs, Swedish quality, but only got two years and twang, one broken spring. After a six month wait got a refund. Replaced with two cheapies from Carparts4less, still good. Moral here somewhere. Shed not under water? Keep well

11th February 2021, 09:00	#16
tourer Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Tourer CDT Auto. Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Long Eaton Posts: 1,342 Thanks: 30 Thanked 220 Times in 160 Posts	Strange isn't it? I bought a Tourer brand new, build date 2002. The rear springs have both been replaced twice. Both front are still the originals.

13th February 2021, 05:37	#19
alanaslan Gets stuck in 75 Tourer Automatic conn, 75 Saloon Automatic Conn, The Monograme Spice Tourer Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Johnstone Posts: 670 Thanks: 57 Thanked 231 Times in 151 Posts	I must be the lucky bloke here, Having read this the pinch bolt seems to give everyone bother. I have probably done a dozen 75 front strut springs over the years and never had any bother. depending on state i either do them cold with a six sided impact socket on the big gun or if they look bad warm them up a little then use the big gun. the problem I have always come across is the top bearing bolts spinning where their meant to be trapped or just sheering at low torque. I now as a matter of course knock out all three and replace with quality High tensile setscrews means you have to work at top and bottom, but well worth it, I have even had a 6 month old top mount rubber fail makes for a nice dent in the bonnet. For spring compressing I use a floor mount with pump pedal makes it so much easier than fiddling with the bolt and Hook ones. I would not have the guts at my age to use the mole grip method I hope to see my eightieth in a few years time.

13th February 2021, 10:41	#20
Typhoon190 This is my second home MG ZT-T 190 Monogram Typhoon Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 4,704 Thanks: 328 Thanked 557 Times in 443 Posts	You're a brave man or a complete nutcase tackling that task in sub freezing temperatures Dave. I can't handle the cold.